Zfreak
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Posts posted by Zfreak
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I m using a 7 qt. Hamburger oil pan. Its shorter than stock and has all the good stuff for controlling the oil. Its a road race style. Check my webb page for a picture or two.
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Go with a custom made set of headers, or sell your angle plug heads and put set on with straight plugs. Then you can use block hugger headers.
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Yes 700R
I used a air chisel and a grinder. I used the JTR Bracket with the recommended tail housing. I cut holes the the floor to make room for the exhaust humps that the bracket has. This allows more room for the exhaust to bend around the the trans pan.
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I cut a hole in the trans tunnel in the area where the trans cooler lines hook up to the trans. Than I fabricated a new panel in place of the old trans tunnel wall. This gave me enough room to use a quality set of cooler lines that I purchased from Bowtie Overdrives (http://www.700r4.com) I believe the price was about $125 for the set which includes steel braided hoses to hook up to the cooler. Vist my web site and you can see the lines on trans prior to putting it in the car.
Good luck
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Get a Lokar trans dip stick tube, I really like mine.
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Nullbound,
I also purchased the the stage three and have not yet driven my car or finished the set up of the trans. The installation went great. My car is at a local body shop getting the paint finished so Im going to have wait to test my trans.
I live about an hour away from Bowtie Overdrives so I picked up my trans at their shop. I was really impressed with the testing they do to each of their trans.
Which converted did you decide to go with? I purchased the 2200 rpm stall.
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I also had planned to use just a trans cooler in front of the radiator. I agree with all the theroies in the former post. I bought a performance 700R4 from Bowtie Overdrives. The guys at Bowtie Overdrives swear that your trans will run cooler using the cooler in the radiator. They recommend an extra cooler for some applications, but never recommend by-passing the cooler in the radiator. These guys warranty their trannies for one year with unlimted milage. Anyway check out thier site, shoot a
e mail and ask them about trans coolers.
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Has anyone out there fabricated driveshaft loops for their halfshafts? I was thinking of mounting the loop to the A arm so that it will move up and down with the suspension. Fabricating it out of some 4in schedule 40 pipe and then welding a tower/bracket to the pipe and then mounting it to the A arm. With this design I will have to remove the halfshafts to install the loop. Anybody have any better ideas?
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Hey Carlo,
Thanks for the compliment on the engine compartment. As for the spears, I hear what your saying but have never givin it much thought. With any luck I hope no one ever finds out.
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Ron,
There is a reinforcement directly behind the the firewall where the strut tower brace connects to the firewall. In the picture you can see that I also used some 1/8 in plate to strengthen the firewall.
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Lets try this one more time.
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How about trying this. I also have a strut bar similar to Pete's.
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Try a search titled phantom grip and you will find plenty of info on this subject.
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Is your friends motor going to make hp on the top of the rpm curve or in the mid range? Edelbrock is fine for a lower reving motor. If you really want to wind it up go with the Trick flow or ever better Airflow Research.
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I have the 7qt, 7in depth Hambuger pan from Summit and it definitly has kick outs on both sides. 2.5in exhaust fits with no problems.
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I have a 383 and 700r in my 72 240z. I had to do some modifications to the passenger side of the tunel. I have no idea what you are going to have do to your 84 300zx.
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Mike is right. Check each rod one at a time, grind the corner for clearance and then have your rods re-balanced. I also had clearance problems on the side of the block in the back. A stock oil pan will also usaully cause problems.
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I used the 7 qt Hambuger pan, available through Summit racing for $199. ( 7in deep, windage tray, trap doors ect. ) It works great for a sbc 383. Fits nice, exhaust is a little tight with the kick outs, but a good muffler shop can make it work easy. Im running dual 2.5in with no problems.
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Thanks for the help, I'll check out the places mentioned.
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If wanted try one where could I get one?
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I have searched several differant forums and Im confused on what a phantom lsd is.
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Izzy,
If you want a nice exhaust system pattern it after Pete's. I had the body shop cut another exhaust relief in the roll pan and ran my dual 2.5in out both sides instead of craming it all into one side. In order to do this I had to use a fuel cell. Just my opion but those side pipes look really cheesy.
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I searched the forums for the answer to this question and came up with nothing. Lots of guys are using 5in. tachs and speedos. What I need to know is, what is the best way to mount this size of a tack and speedo in the stock dash of my 1972 240z?
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Silicone Boy is right, the big problem is between the cam and shoulder on the rods. Assemble the motor, grind the shoulder on the rods for clearance between the rods and the cam, them take it all apart and have the rotating assembly balanced. As for the block, I used a dye grinder. You can do all of this yourself to save money at the machine shop.
Good Luck
Back to work
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I took my car out of storage the other day and hope to have it on the road for the Z car Nationals at Motorsports auto in April. There is alot of work that still has to be done. I posted a couple of recent picture in the general album. Mine is the blue Z with the billet centerlines.[/img]