[240 Hatch strut $18 at Advance Auto]

I would be interested to see these installed as well.

[Finned R200 Cover]

The part number should be 38351-N3110, which is NLA from nissan

[240Z Door panel part numbers available!]

Alright, I have an update as far as US part numbers for door panels. Unfortunately, only passenger door panels are still available from Nissan USA. Why, I have no idea. But, if you do need the passenger side, the part number is H0900-E4100. Just go to your local Nissan dealer and give the parts guy that number and they can order a black panel. I checked availability as of 5/28/09, and there were five panels left in the New York warehouse. So, apparently, first come first serve!

 

Edit:

There are no drivers side door panels available from Nissan USA, and the only passenger door panels available are black. If anyone has any questions, please send me a pm.

[... and two have become one - a new MIG welder's love story]

FYI, do not weld on chrome or stainless steel without proper ventilation and respiratory protection. The fumes are VERY, VERY not good, i.e. poisonous.

[240Z Door panel part numbers available!]

I just saw this thread and immediately ran the part numbers (I work at a nissan dealer). Unfortunately, Nissan USA doesn't carry these anymore, for any who are interested. At least not these part numbers. I didn't get a chance to run the other 8 numbers per side for the s30 before the cut off time, BUT I will run them tomorrow and see what the results are.

[Rear hub assembly]

Is your car an early 260z? If so, I do have a set I took off of my '73 240z if you need them.

[my broken halfshaft pics..]

I love carnage pics...

[Modern Motorsports LTD coil over kit]

I purchased Ross' kit for my 240 as well. The quality is top notch, and any questions I had were taken care of with an e-mail to ross. I can't comment as the ride quality, as my car is still ripped apart

[Chassis stiffening & rust removal]

seam sealer then paint. Most if not all modern automotive seam sealers take paint very well.

[Show off your rust pictures]

If you look in the lower left of the picture, I'm sure you'll see it's an early 260.

[Wheel recommendations]

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126343

 

Here's a current thread with RB-R's on a Z. They're 17's, and gold, but I guess you can sort of get an idea.

[making the final drive stronger]

http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php

 

You will find that the r-200 set up has been discussed at length, concerning half-shafts, differentials, etc...

[Wheel recommendations]

First of all, welcome to an awesome place for information about our Z's. There is a ton of information available on here about almost anything. If you use the search function, you'll find that almost every question has been answered and many sources made available. I would advise getting intimately familiar with the search function, you'll understand why after you use it.

 

Second, as an answer to your question, http://www.rotawheels.com.

[Preparing new drums]

Generally, I've found, you want to turn a new set of drums before you put them on the car. Every set of new drums I've gotten has turned out to be enough out of round to be noticeable while braking. So that will kill two birds with one stone.

[1971 240z restoration PICS]

This thing is looking killer man. I can't wait until I can start putting mine back together!

 

On a side note, x2 on the rust bullet recommendation. Awesome stuff for sure. I found out the hard way on the brush strokes, though. I did my engine compartment first, and now I'm gonna have to smooth it out and repaint with a top coat.

 

Keep up the good work! I can't wait to see it finished!!!

[Southern California Mediablaster]

Ya, I got my car blasted there too. I just brought them the bare body to blast, and I had the same results, all of the rust gone with the body filler remaining. Total cost was 600, and I would definitely recommend the shop to anyone in the area.

 

Eric

[Spindle-Pin-Puller Loaner program]

Dave, I'm sorry to say that I broke the tool. The heli-coiled threads that attach to the pin pulled right out and stripped the threads inside of the threaded rod. One side popped out no problem, but the other side is really frozen I guess. I thought I'd drill it out a size bigger, bottom a bolt in the hole, and re-drill and tap the center. Let me know what you'd like me to do.

 

Thanks,

Eric

[hooker swap headers]

Friendly FYI, this goes in the for sale section

[Nissan Employees]

Metro Nissan, Montclair, CA-Tech for a couple years

 

Same place- Parts now

[hooker swap headers]

Is this a question?

[sandblasting]

Crystal Sandblasting, Upland CA. They did mine for $600, and did a good job too. They use aluminum oxide media and lower the working pressure on the outer sheetmetal to control warpage.

[No More Clutch Type LSDs!!!!!! (Nismo, Power Brute, etc)]

Man, that really sucks. Especially considering I am in the process of purchasing an R200 to put into my car and I was getting ready to order a power brute :fmad:.

[Show off your rust pictures]

OK, I can't resist. Here's my rust. Keep in mind this sucks for my area .

[any in socal w/ spring compres.?]

I also have the compressors from harbor freight. Like Aux said, just grease the threads on the spring compressor and you'll be in like flint. I've used mine to do three sets of springs, and no problems so far. For the money, you can't beat it.

[Show off your rust pictures]

At first I didn't even think it was a Z. I thought it was a truck or something .