Jump to content
HybridZ

savor

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ann Arbor, MI

savor's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Hi everyone, Does anyone have a scrap car with the following section, rust free? I found a large rusting section of my frame horn, on the passenger, side of my project car. Would like to replace it with a section cut from a donor vehicle.
  2. There really is no easy way. Be prepared to spend a lot of your time underneath your car if you dont have a rotisserie. You can avoid bulk of the harsh chemicals by using a heat gun and a scraper. Heat up an area and the scraper should cut through easily. Use mineral spirit, scotchbrite pads and rags to wipe up what's remaining. It's a labor of love...
  3. It was all done with a mig. To clarify, the spot welds were done where the frame rail met the floor board. You can see them in the picture with the holes drilled in to the floor board. The smaller diameter drilled holes were used as an outline, for the cut off wheel, and the larger circular cuts were made for factory spot welds. The spot weld cutters can be found at harbor freight. The seams around the replacement was welded less than a quarter inch at a time. You should skip around and take your time, enjoy a beer... or a couple.
  4. Here are some pictures of what I did to fix a rust hole similar to yours. As you can see the rust went through three layers of metal- firewall, upper portion of the front frame rail, and the frame rail itself. I also found out that the rust extended further down, sandwiched between the frame and the floors. Since I wanted to remove as much rust as possible, all of that had to go. After the rusted metal was cut out, I fabricated a piece of metal to fit in the cut section. Wasn't difficult- just needed time to massage it in. This piece was later spot welded to the frame and seams welded. Will have to get around to griding it smooth. I decided to ignore patching the metal at the top of the front frame rails. I did, however, use ospho and the eastwood internal frame coating in that area. I will probably spray some of this stuff inside the frame rails again once I drill access holes in the replacement frame rails. Hope that helps.
  5. He told me he got it from Jegs for approximately $177. I asked for some pictures of his setup and he said he may be able to send me some soon. I will post them if I can get permission from him.
  6. If somebody finds out, could you please post the information here? I don't want to bombard SmyrnaZ's inbox. Actually.. I feel as if I am taking crazy pills. I can't find a member by the name of SmyrnaZ in these forums.
  7. I guess I got to the easier stuff first; I already welded the laps at the firewall/floor and at the rear of the transmission tunnel (behind the seats). I will definitely heed your advice and weld between the rocker and the floor, underneath the car. It's pretty relieving to hear that I can have choices on where I want to stitch weld. What I've been reading is that I should be aiming to weld every seam/lap in a S30. So in that case, are there particular areas that needs more attention than others for a 280z chassis? It would be especially nice to hear that I can ignore the wheel wells
  8. Hi guys. I have started the process of stitch welding all the seams of my 280z and ran into a issue. How do I prep the crevice between the rockers and the floors for welding? It seems to narrow for my wire brush, on my grinder, to get the paint off. Hell, do I even have to reinforce this area?
  9. I was searching around google when I came across this beauty. Does anyone have more information on this car? Looks like a hell of a track car!
  10. Hey guys. I just recently purchased a 77 280z that failed emissions, hydrocarbons. Took it to a shop and they told me that the cause could be from the misfire they are seeing on all cylinders. After some analysis, they told me that they found corrosion on the harness wires that lead to the injectors (I think they told me at the point where the injectors meets wire). They will be fixing it by cutting and splicing new wires to the current harness. My question is, is this necessary? Can I just clean up the rust and see if that solves the problem? Thanks in advance for answering.
×
×
  • Create New...