JIM73240Z

here you go. I hope. this is what I have. still learning before I put in car. it is ms2 extra. at this point I will work on ms2 if I can get something to work. jim race car 2014_2014-01-11_16.35.40.zip

i tried the string around the car method. hated it. I went to a straight edge on the outside edge of the tires like a pieces of plate or something and measure a bunch. I also found the center of the cross member so that I can double check my measurements. got it to what john c has posted for the aggressive settings. jimbo

so I ordered a new stim (prebuilt from diy). I have o2 readings now. I can test the tach on the stim, it works, without being plugged in to the ms. then plug in the ms and nothing. went over step by step, and have o2. I thought I read that you could not have an o2 without tach. all of the dip switches are off as I am running a 83 dizzy. soooooooooooooo, wtf. is there a set up that I have to do on the stim, certain jumpers, to make this thing work? frustrating jimbo

that was nice. I think my sphincter would close up tight in such a high speed track. out here in AZ, the fastest I have been in the M3 is 140 at the end of the drag strip. then it is a hard 180 at 60 mph. we can hang with the c5's on the straight and out brake and corner on the back half. kind of fun. on some of the shorter tracks it is the pesky little Miata's that hang with us. I see you have the same fun with the mustangs though. jimbo

good one. I tell everybody who rides with me on the track to keep their hands off the roll bars, sit on them if you have too or hook your hands in the harness. just in case. even in de, you see things that are not so nice. jimbo

I ordered a resistor and soldered it in. I will check my receipt from where I got it. It has been at the shop for several years as I got the chance to work on it and it is basically done. I had a 3.57 board and I killed it so I got a 3.0 and built it. i am going to check my build manual and double check the steps and tests. while it is still in the car, i am goint to pull the dizzy out and turn by hand and see if i get any changes and test voltages. I have the stim and I got some movement on the computer by turning the knobs. it has been a while since I did it. the big thing is trying to narrow down the problem. is it the computer or the wiring? then go from there. if my computer starts up someones car, then....... the car is at home now so I can get up in the middle of the night when I cant sleep and go tinker. jimbo

I am using a msII V 3.0 with a 83 zxt distributer. I was going to go edis but cancer and loos of employment sidelined that. now it is pretty much get the dam thing running. then I will make upgrades as money allows. jimbo

I have my megasquirt in my car. I can connect and load a program, it reads tps and temperatures. I do not get a tach signal when cranking. I was wondering if anyone could test the computer to see if it has a problem or the wiring. if it is the computer, I swear I will take it out to the gun range and then go get a haltech. if it is the wiring, I will order a new wire harness and redo it. I do not seem to find the issue.and I would like to narrow down the issue. thanks in advance. Jimbo

looking at the same picture, you need to fix the widow sticker or slow down. the force of the air is taking it off. he he jimbo

Clifton bought the big flairs from reaction for his race car before he sold it. it is now owned by cobra matt which has a ton of pics of his car. super wide. Clifton bought them because someone gave him some 16" x 14-15" wide rims and these would fit. jimbo

i just welded mine with carbon wire. race car. not many miles, and i live in a desert. not to worried about rust. jimbo

i think i found what i am looking for at the cas. i was concentrating on the dizzy section. jimbo

i have looked at the wiring diagram and it shows the colors but not the position that they go into the plug or dizzy. ie, top right ect. when looking at the bottom of dizzy with the plug pointed up, jimbo

on the underside of the 83 zx turbo dizzy is the 4 wire plug for the computer. one side has the bump so you can only insert the plug into the dizzy the one way. my question is what is the colors of the wires in each position of the plug? my plug is ok. but the wires are toast and i can not tell what the original colors were from the old harness. jimbo

cool article. I ran into a aeronautical engineer on day and he saw the wing on the back of our m3 track car and said it looked cool. to bad it does not work well. this was a 3d airfoil from arp. that stuff is foreign to me. i need to site down and read some articles on air foils. i read on arp's website about why the 3d works on some cars. kind of interesting. not sure what would be better for the s30. might make a wing and jack it it to to roof line. jimbo

after every video, i get all excited inside. keep them coming. jimbo

even with a turbo, clifton ran stock hard lines and was getting 450 rwhp. do not have to have huge lines to make big power. cant hurt though. jimbo

i have not worked with kydex. lot of guys out here use plywood for the splitters. break it, go to HD and you have a new one in less that 30 min. on our m3's, we use a honeycomb thing. not sure what it is called. weighs 8 lbs. it goes back to the radiator support and held on with a thumb screw in the center onto the air dam and 2 dzues on the sides. on and off in 30 sec. literally. strong enough to make a difference, weak enough not to tear the front end apart. ask me how i know. jimbo

mike, i have the same air dam and before i put it on i cut the thing in half and glassed in about 2 inches to drop it down. that way the "splitter" part is down low where the real splitter will be. i figured it would work. really like the air dams along the rocker panels. thinking of doing that with lawn and garden edging. ugly but gets the job done. jimbo

Ok folks. If Matt does not want to "share" his information, that is his prerogative. We do know that Matt is open with his knowledge and pics and if anyone is wise enough to notice changes in his car from the pics after the wind tunnel test, then he is "Sharing" his results with us in a round about way. Numbers don't lie and if he puts something there it must be for a reason. I hope to god Matt goes in on this thing, with or without sharing. The knowledge gained would be awesome. My goal is to drive out there this winter and drive on some east coast tracks and try to hook up with some of you and have a little info "sharing". Jimbo

call dave. he may still have some where the anodizing was off. jimbo

in the build manual, for triggering off of a hall optic circuit, it says to jumper d1 and d2. is this just a piece of wire to complete the circuit in lieu of the diode. step 50 a. section v & vi. jimbo

Hey Matt, what alignment settings are you using on your set up. i am starting with the settings from John C this week but wondering what yours are. jimbo

I am currently building the MSII V 3.0 and when installing the jumpers for the ignition section, does it matter what side of the diode it goes on/ jimbo

if this is for the drag strip, you would be fine. for any type of road course fun, you really need a diagonal from drivers head to passenger floor in the main hoop for roll over protection. there are numerous pics out there and on here that shows it. you might check out john coffeys "johnc" website as it has some great pics. jimbo