JIM73240Z

that's what I thought. 5-0. not sure when it is 5 and 0 but it goes between the 2. for most of my testing, ms is not involved at all. computer is not on. just a power source. and I have the dizzy resting on my intake or another surface for grounding. I guess I can try and run a wire from the dizzy body to a grounding source and see what happens. jimbo

I took the signal wire off of the relay board to measure. 4.75v. then I rewired the whole thing with scrap wire per the detail, same. then I wired everything back to the relay board to get tuner studio involved. same. I bought a 30zx cas thinking that the cas was messed up. same. dude, if I had hair I would have pulled it out. this is the only thing from keeping me at the track. jimbo

I have a 12v coming in from a switched source. good and clean. I have another 12v source with the 1k resister per Moby's diagram (tach signal). then I have a good ground. red top left, per my plug. black bottom left per plug. then tach signal from top right per plug. jimbo

you know what's weird though, Mack said in that thread that the red and black is on the right side of the connector with the dizzy in his hand and the rotor pointed away. I have the plug and the red and black are on the left. I guess I could try that but I think I have. jimbo

I have a solid 12v from battery and the tach signal side I have 5v and when I turn the dizzy very slowly I can see the v drop to 4.75v. that's it. I thought that it might be so small of an area that it drops that the volt meter cant read it so I plugged everything back into the car and hooked up the lap top and still got nothing. I have wired it up several different times with the same results. per mobys diagram. maybe edis is in order. jimbo

no signal in tuner studio. nothing. I have wired it up per the instructions and nothing. I guess I will try and order an new dizzy and see if that does anything. I kind of doubt it but I am running out of ideas. this sucks jimbo

it is a steady 5v until it hits the slot and then momentarily goes to 4.75v then back up to 5v. I am measuring the at the signal wire back to the computer. I thought it went to 0v. so I have not bothered to put the laptop to the car and hit the starter button to see if a signal come in. I guess I will do that here and see. what the hell right. jimbo

I hope the title makes sense. I have the dizzy out with my multi meter, both digital and good old needle, and when spinning the slot past the opt sensor, it will go from 5v to 4.75. the digital wont pick it up fast enough but the needle move quick. I thought it needed to go to 0v so the computer will let it spark. I have it wired exactly like the printout from moby. this is the only thing that is keeping me form getting this car alive after 7 years of working on it. please help. ideas? jimbo

correct. one should change a lot over the course of rotation and one should be every 60 degrees. when I rotate, I see the 5v and when the diode passes the 60 degree slot it drops to 4.5 v not to 0. so I am wondering if there is something else I am missing. jimbo

ok. moby told me to take the dizzy out and SLOWLY turn by hand to see if the v drops. at first nothing mattered so in a fit I ordered a new cas in fear of my frustration and moving wire to spade since nothing was working. put in the new cas. no change. went to a datsun shop I found here on the surface of the sun and he showed me the connector to verify my connections. wired per the directions, nothing. put back in the old cas, nothing. I have a spare cas I guess. this is all from my digital multi meter. so I broke out my old analog needle multi meter and noticed a drop from 5v to 4.75-4.5 v. not the result I was expecting. I thought it grounded. any ideas? jimbo

there is a couple of 510's here in the valley that have the 2.0l with the fia heads. scream. fun to watch those little guys hang with some big boys. jimbo

SWEEET JIMBO

on the 3rd pic on what looks like is the z is a gurney flap of some sort on the vertical part of the wing? I have not seen that before. why? I probably screwed up the names but it has been a long day. jimbo

I took out the dizzy so that I can get to the wires. I took off the ign wire from the relay so that I can see a voltage drop when I turn the dizzy. nothing. stays 12v. I do not have the plug for the 83 zx turbo dizzy. so I have 3 wires with female spade connectors for the 4 male spades that are in there. I have the 83 zx fsm and the 82 zx fsm and they say nothing for the cas. except for the 82 which has a diagram of the round plug that went to the cas not to the dizzy. don't have that either. looking at the plug in the bottom of the dizzy, there is an indentation for the plug to go in only one way. with that said and orientated at 12 o'clock, which wire goes where. to top it off, I had the gw(+) at 12v solid and the gb (signal with 1k resister) at a solid 5v. today it is at 12v. not sure what happened, did the resistor blow and I nee to put in another one. this is a pita project. jimbo

no problem at all. I hate electricity. the only way I can picture it is if it is water going through pipes. I have my 12v coming in and reading at 12v per my voltmeter. then I have another 12v wire with the 1k resistor soldered in the wire, then continues to the shielded wire, connects to that and goes to the dizzy. it has 5v per my volt meter and backed up by everything that I can find. I hope that helps thanks moby jimbo

no. one wire is a full 12v. another has the resistor that brings it down to 5v. I was just going for a convenient power source. jimbo

so now the computer works with the stim all day. major accomplishment. I have 5v at the dizzy on the signal wire (GB) and 12v on the power (BW). still no tach signal. I have the power coming from the positive side of the coil and the 5v coming from there as well. any thoughts. I may swap out the relay board because it seems I am 2 for 2 on soldering my boards. jimbo

I read one I think on pelican and there is another on a bimmer forum, one was cf and the other was aluminum wrap. the aluminum one the guy shows how he made the spars in the wing. both really cool diy jobs. I am looking into this as I think I can get more out of one of those than I can out of my old apr dual element wings. plus those on kognition and g stream were over 1k in $. yikes, I can make several for that price. may not look as pretty. jimbo

dang it. more added to the to do list. I thought this was more of a vertical piece that kept air out from going under, not a piece that is generating AND keeping air out. nicely done matt jimbo

I am so sick of looking over the build instructions. everything is there. I reflashed to a msII code and tried that just to make sure. even less stuff coming through and still no tach signal. I have one more thing to do and send it over to a guy in town who looked at it last and said it look alright and have him go through it without me standing there. if he cant get this thing going I am ordering a haltec. I hate doing it since I spent so much already but damn. jimbo

car is at the shop right now. the way I figure it is to isolate the issue. could be wiring, could be computer. not sure so take one thing at a time and make sure that at least one thing works. I will check the voltage drop by the end of the week. but the computer........ I am just trying to verify that the computer is working. parts are, but I am not getting a tack signal on the stim. that tells me there is something there. once that is verified to work I can concentrate on the wiring. when I bought the stim, I also got a new bundle of wire to rewire it if needed. I am looking for 5v right?

yep. all there. now when I built this, I followed the ms2 manual. I have the ms2extra in there because I wanted to try the bigger maps. I have been looking at the ms extra site and trying to figure out any differences. at this point, I will scrap the extra and try straight up ms2 if it will get the car started. jimbo

nope. that is what started this whole mess is no tach signal. I plug in the stim (with no jumpers anywhere, not sure if that is part of the problem) and get tps, o2, map, water temp. no tach. jim

I have the one on the right mounted not in the cockpit but on the main hoop right behind my head. I can easily hit it from inside the car strapped in. jimbo

crap, I was laying in bed at the hospital and I thought I posted this. here you go. jimbo race car 2014_2014-01-11_16.35.40.zip