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Everything posted by 540z

  1. The car the trans came out of was somewhat of a mutt that some kid was trying to race, but wrecked it very shortly after the tranny was installed. I haven't tried to do the installation on my Z yet as I'm trying to get an idea as to how much cutting and pounding I may need to do, or if the easier method would be to go with the JTR mounting setup. The M21 in there now has a Hurst Competition Plus with a 2" setback plate on the shift handle mounting bracket to get it to fit thru the hole. It has been a good shifter and this setup has worked well since 1978.
  2. The T5 I've got is a Kessler rebuilt unit from a '93 V8 Camaro. It has some pretty beefy internals. I'm wondering if it will fit without my having to change the engine mounting position and what it would take to have the shifter in relatively the same location as the stock stick.
  3. Hi, Has anybody out there put a WC T-5 in a Scarab-converted Z? I have a '72 240z with a SB Chevy and an M21 four speed and want to get an overdrive. I have come across a sweet deal on a low mileage T-5, bell housing, clutch, slave cyl, etc., from a '93 Camaro. I would like to know if any of you all have swapped over to a T-5 while still retaining some of the Scarab stuff and what's involved. I know that the JTR manual suggests using the T-5, but I really don't want to have to set back the engine, replace motor mounts and headers to accomplish this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, TR
  4. Has anyone installed a 280z tach in a 240z Scarab that didn't have HEI? I currently have a 327 Chevy motor with a 17000 series Accel magnetic distributor and a 140001 super coil. I do not have a spark enhancement box (such as MSD) on the car yet. The JTR manual has some great info on Tach swaps, but only for vehicles equipped with GM's HEI unit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Hi, I noticed that a couple of your photos show mechanical fans with shrouds. What vehicles are they from? I've got a '72 Scarab conversion and have never had a shroud and I know I need one. I have an additional Hayden pusher fan out front, but it doesn't work as well as it should. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
  6. I wouldn't advise you to start and run your vehicle on stands, just don't. If you have to start it, put it on all 4 wheels. Also, I wouldn't drive it if the bump stop under the dash can't reach far enough to keep the pedal return spring from eventually yanking the rod out of the back of the clutch master cylinder. Is it possible that the rod was compressed into the cylinder before installation or before you filled it with fluid? Press on the rubber boot of the actuator rod with your finger. Did any oil come out? Let's take a look at the rest of the problem. Go look at the other end of the clutch master cylinder in the engine compartment. Does it look the same as the old part? Are there any markings on the casting? Measure the old part's rod and compare it to the new one. Sorry to sound like I'm just picking up on the obvious, but you never know. I just picked up my Vic Brit catalog, and they list the same clutch m/c for the years 70-78. Oh, by the way, I am about 5'5" and 135, so I have no problem fitting under the dash of my '72.
  7. Let me backtrack per my previous post. I misread what you were saying. I thought you replaced the slave cylinder. I can empathize with your problem about the clutch master as I had to replace 2 P.O.S.'s that I got from aftermarket manufacturers. As far as pedal clearance goes, you should have about 8" of distance from the front of the pedal to the stop. Adjust the clevis rod accordingly to get this.
  8. Hi, You mentioned that you have some distance between where the pedal stops moving and the actual pedal stop on the floor. Have you replaced the clutch master or messed with the clevis that attaches the pedal to the master's actuator rod? You also mentioned that you have the slave cylinder's adjusting nut run out almost to the end. Is there any end play between the adjusting nut and the hole in the clutch fork? Let's start here first, TR
  9. I made one out of a 48 oz Hi 'C' can. It is 4" in diameter by 6.5" long and holds 81.7 cu in of vacuum at about 28 in Hg. (that's what I pulled it down to). I used an off the shelf 1/2" x 3/8" Brake Booster valve (Help! p/n 80190), 1/2" Grommet (Help! p/n 80191) and a Home Depot brass 3/8" x 1/4" Barb to MIP connector along with some J-B Weld. Just drill 2 (1 1/2" & 1 11/16") holes about 1-1/2" apart on the top of the can, drain out the contents, rinse out and let dry. Place the grommet in the 11/16" hole, followed by the 1/2" end of the vacuum valve into the grommet. Coat the threads and bottom hex of the brass fitting with J-B Weld and insert into the 1/2" hole. Make sure the J-B Weld seals the area around the 1/2" hole. When the J-B Weld is cured, just hook up the booster valve to the vacuum outlet of the intake manifold and the barb fitting to the brake booster and you're all set. It should give you a couple of extra shots of vacuum for braking. Good Luck, TR
  10. Well, I looked very closely at the inlet port of the Slave Cylinder and found nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of a slight amount of rust at the bottom part of the hole. It was not in the threads, but in the conical indentation made by the drilling operation prior to threading during manufacture. This is no big deal considering that the sealing surfaces are between the shoulder of the inlet hose and the machined boss around the inlet port, which is sealed with a copper gasket. With that in mind, I took a closer look at the machined seat for the bleeder screw. Sure enough, there was a tiny streak of rust on the bleeder screw seat! Upon closer examination with a bore scope and a magnifier, that streak of rust is a tiny channel that is letting a small amount of fluid out and air in. Further examination using Prussian Blue revealed that the bleeder screw is not seating properly either, mostly due to this rust. I have another cylinder on order, of course with a week's wait. I have been bitten yet again by the new part demon! Why doesn't anything work right the 1st time? Oh well...... Regards, TR
  11. That's a good thought! I just pulled the cylinder and hose out of the car. I'll bet that it's either the inlet port or the nib on the hose. I have extensive measurement gear at work. I sense a little "government work" coming in... Thanks, TR
  12. Hey Guys, I am having a problem with my slave cylinder. I have a Scarab bell housing attaching a Muncie M21 4-Spd to a 327 Chevy motor in my '72 Z. I have recently replaced the clutch slave cylinder, clutch master and the lines in between. The master is a stock '72 replacement unit. The slave is from a late '70's 210 model. The upper hydraulic line is steel with the correct fittings and the lower line is the proper rubber replacement from Victoria Brit. This car has had the Chevy driveline and Scarab bell housing since 1978 (I built it for a friend back then), so I just copied the parts that were already there. The difficulty that I'm having is with leakage around the copper washer that seals the lower rubber line to the inlet port on the slave cylinder. It is a tiny leak, but enough to introduce air into the system so that the trans gets tough to put into gear after a drive. I have never seen such a stubborn leak! The threads on the cylinder and on the line go together fine with no slop, and the washer seats nicely around the threaded part of the hose and the gasket surfaces of both the hose and the cylinder are clean and burr-free. I have used several copper washers of varying thicknesses but the leak keeps returning. I am not stacking the washers, either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for such a long post, I just wanted to give a thorough description. Thanx, T.R.
  13. Thanks guys, I like the WC-T5 idea. Although the thought of a 3" driveshaft with the O.D. unit is kinda funny... T.R.
  14. Has anyone had any luck with an aftermarket Overdrive unit for their GM manual transmissions? I have an old Muncie M21 4 Speed coupled to a 327 in my '72 240z. I understand there are aftermarket units out there that work well for Street Rods, but I haven't heard anything about anybody using one in a Z-car. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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