The Rototiller
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Posts posted by The Rototiller
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i did not look to see what year it was. it did have a finned cover and short nose. oops. it was an R200.....but it has LSD.....oh well, if anyone needs one its there....at pick n pull prices.
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I went to the import pick and pull in rancho cordova CA today and saw an older Infinity Q45 there with the rear diff and CV axles still intact. i did not pull it for myself. i am looking to go the LSD R200 route from the turbo 300ZX. but if you are looking for an R230 with CVs, its there. you better get there before its gone....
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a company in sacramento ca. called American stripping co. gave me a quote of $1500 to blast and primer the entire car. they specialize in fine autos and came HIGHLY recomended from a few body shops, local car restorers and hot rod shops.
your car should be completely stripped of all mechanicals and you will need to remove all the doors and fenders. remove all of the glass and remove the rubber sound deadening material.
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Based on what I've seen and read so far, the evaporator doesn't have a provision for pulling in any outside air. So it looks like it will only be able to recirculate the air in the car.
fresh air is overrated anyways.... :)
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what is the latest on these door panels? any pics of the completed product?
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i used the old style nut (brand new though). i used red loctite and tightedned it down as tight as i could with a breaker bar and i was going to peen the ends.
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i am actually looking for pics from those who has done this allready....thanks though....
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i am thinking of blending in my inspection lids into the fender on my 1971 240zcar will be a sbc conversion with 700r4 auto. battery and washer tank are being relocated so i really have no need for the lids. can anyone who has blended their inspection lids post a few pics of how it looks and how they did it?thanks
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i had a SBC motor built for my 1971 240z. i had hoped to have the car prepped for the install prior to the motor being delivered. well i contracted a disease called "whileimatititis". what started out as a simple stub axel swap turned into a 4 disc brake and 5 lug conversion, and then i had to swap out the diff for an R200. it gets worse. i found a little rust here and there and now i have striped everything from the car and i am in the process of building a rotisserie. i am told that i have a severe form of "whileimatititis"back to my question. what do i need to do to the motor while it sits in the corner of my garage under a blanket, waiting for me to give it life... it has sat there for the last 6 months and could be there another six months while i wait for a cure. this motor is new and has no fluids in it. should i put oil in it and turn the oil pump with a drill to spread the oil around the motor? any help would be appreciated.
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its great to see you guys coming to the aid of a fellow z owner who is "wounded".....
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POR 15...it was used inside and out. I have since applied Dupli-Color truck bed liner and dyna-matted it.
did you use bed liner on the inside and outside too? did you sandblast the entire car? just curious. i am in the process of building a rotisserie to work on the underside of my 240z...i have seen lots of great work on here (yours included) and it always gives my inspiration.....
thanks
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I would like to solicit some advice and or comments on a rear sub frame brace I am considering having fabricated and then bolting it in. I have included below a picture of my idea and placement of the brace.
Here is my situation. I am finished with the restoration of the chassis and suspension (pictures are in my gallery). In addition the outside paint work is done as well. Bottom line is I have decided to install a SBC... possibly a crate Ram Jet in the 300-350 HP range. I was... up until this month just going to modify an L28 and be done with it.
But... I have the V8 bug. I am now concerned that the rear sub frame needs reinforced/tied together. Since I have completed the chassis' date=' I do not want to do additional welding and causing burnt paint,grinding and all the related redo. Thus.. I thought I could get the needed reinforcement by fabbing up a brace inside between the rear wheel wells with 1/8" steel plate and then [b']bolting[/b] it through into the sub frame cross piece that holds the differential front brace. The picture should give you a pretty good idea of what I am considering.
Initially, when I had the car on the rotesserie... I welded in 1/8" channel (cap over)on the front frame rails from the firewall to the radiator brace. I also welded in baddog frame/floor rails underneath on the new floor pans. I am confident the front 2/3's of the car is strong. It is just tying into the rear sub frame that I am attempting here. I will also be using strut braces.
So... if I do what I am proposing do you think I will have enough structural strength to prevent the usual stress related problems associated with the V8 conversions?
I am only going to be using it on the street... no repeated hard launches and track racing. Maybe... an occasional track day every now and then.
Thanks for your input.
Jack
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Sub_Frame_Support.JPG
what is your interior painted with?
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thats what i thought the reason would be. thanks
Safty VS Looks
Safty VS Looks
Safty VS Looks
Safty VS Looks
safety VS safty
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i would get the stock GM ones. they cost a little more but are well worth it. the urethane ones will tranfer all that engine movement and vibration to the frame and ultimately resulting in lots of vibration in the passenger compartment. you want something that is going to smooth out that movement and vibration, not transfer it.
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looking at the wiring diagram for a 1971 240z manual trans, there seems to be quite a few switches and relays. will the painless kit have all of these or will i have to use some of the stock switches and relays?
thanks
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i am looking at getting a painless kit too. just a few questions...
i am looking at the painless 18 circuit universal harness, should i get the GM keyed or the universal? i know this might be an obvious answer for some but i would like to purchase the right kit the first time...
also where is a good place to mount the fuse panel?
thanks
michael rebello
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What are body bushings????
they are near the muffler bearings
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Probably because people dont usually work under a rotisserie... which means the only things you would work on while "belly up" are the sides, which are already available while right side up. Not trying to be a smart-a$$, I almost asked the same question a while back, then thought about it for a minute..... = )
when i say "belly up" i am refering to having the car rotated 180 degrees. with the roof close to the ground. i am wanting to build a rotisserie and just wanted to be sure that it was safe to rotate the car 180 degrees. to those who understood what i was refering to, thanks for your responses....
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i think a review section would be great
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Bartman' date='
I have been following along with your install and I wanted to let you know that in the summer 2005 edition of Sport Z mag on page 52 is an article on swapping out A/C units in older Zs. This builder was updating the A/C in an 80 280ZX and is using the Vintage Air GENII Compac unit. If you need a copy of the article let me know. Also, you can contact (email) the builder (Ron) at rondaugherty@earthlink.net for questions.
Danno74Z
i would like to see a copy of that article......can you email it to performancescooter@comcast.net
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I live in the greater Sacramento area and i was wondering if you knew anyone who could do a coil over conversion for me. I have everything needed to do the swap (ground control coilovers, tokico illuminas, ect). Just need someone who has done these before and can do the welding for me. I don’t mind traveling a little to take them to a reputable shop that will do a professional job.
thanks
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tim
are you looking for stock wiring diagrams?
www.autozone.com has almost every car listed in their repair section. the wiring diagrams on autozone.com are basic and easy to read. hope this helps
michael rebello
is anyone looking for an R230 with CVs
in Drivetrain
Posted
ok ok
i made a mistake.........sorry