JoshCarz

Here is a few pics of the car with the silver hood back. It looks sooo much better. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/whpaql8j85kb72r/Yq9uvMFyhK

No problem. Glad I could help.

Yeah I made them. I used a 90 degree angle piece of aluminum and with a few cuts and bends designed them. I want to remake them once I get something to weld the aluminum. A project car will never be done. There is always something to change I think that's half the fun ... well sometimes.

Thanks guys. Yeah they are Aerocatch. I didn't want to go back to the standard stock mount yet I didn't want the traditional hood pin either since they don't lock. After some research and 85 bucks later on Amazon I had these. I like them so far. http://www.amazon.com/AeroCatch-Plus-Flush-Locking-Latch/dp/B006F441SW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1338497169&sr=8-3 About the exhaust. I didn't want the car loud. I called and talked to Borla and they recommended just 2.5 back into a single 2.5. I was first going to come back into a 3" but it would have been louder. The car is still plenty fast for a daily driver. I'm really liking the sound too. I already had that muffler from a friend sitting in the garage for 3 years so I decided to give it a go. Worse thing that could happen was I'd have to cut it off and weld on a new one like I would have done. I bought the piping all off Jeg's for $220.00 or something like that. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/30671/10002/-1 Now I'm looking for a simple wideband O2 and guage for some carb tuning. I'm still running a little rich I think. Any suggestions?

Here is what I have now. I also realized I suck at making videos so sorry for being a little lame Here is a photo album of the exhaust install also. https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/9976705/1/datsun%20exhaust?h=44457b

I recommend this master cylinder. 454-75-875U $89.25 (Summit prices) http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=23&m=b It is shorter and gives you room to fit the window washer tank. It has the same throw and diameter as this one but just more compact. 454-74-875U $72.28 http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=22&m=b

I just recently installed a 350 into my 240z. I'm stuck on connection the tach. the JTR manual states that the tach wire will be the black with white stripe without the protective cover but both my black and white striped wires don't have any covering. They also both seem to output 12v when the key is on. Has anyone ran into something like this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Good info. I'm only pushing around 300 to 320 hp so I think I'll be good. I do like having the grease fitting.

The Tilton clutch master cylinder worked very well. It is shorter and the windshield washer tank still fits. I'll try to take some pics tonight. I ordered the 454-75-875U. This is their compact version. It still has 7/8" bore with 1.1" of throw. Same as the 454-74-875U. With the shorter one the washer tank still fits. 454-75-875U $89.25 (Summit prices) http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=23&m=b 454-74-875U $72.28 http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=22&m=b

I am currently finishing up the wiring on my 72 240z with a sbc 350 with the points style distributor. I am using a points eliminator kit from Ignitor. The issue I'm having is knowing what wire is the tach wire. I have two black wires with a white stripe but neither one has a shield like the JTR manual states. Also both wires have 12 volts when the key is on. Is this normal? Thanks

The drive-line was finished today. It came to about $68.00. He shortened, balanced and even installed the u-joints for me. The owner, Mike, was a very nice guy. I got it done at Drive Line Services in Fresno, CA. Here is their website. http://www.drive-lines.com/

Here is the u-joint I purchased today. This is the u-joint needed for a newer inner clip u-joint drive-line to fit the converter for the Datsun rear end which uses the older outer clip u-joint. From AutoZone the part number is 3-3130DL AutoZone website: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-U-Joint/_/N-6o242?itemIdentifier=217414_0_0_&newYmme=true not bad for $9.99

It's cool. Thanks for the link. It really helped a lot. Today I just picked up a drive-line. It is the newer style where the u-joints clip in the center but the rear end converter for the Chevy drive-line uses the older style that clip on the outside. I'm just going to look for a conversion u-joint. The book says a 92 - 95 Camaro with an aluminum drive-line has that conversion u-joint on it. I also found a shop local that will shorten and balance it for 69.99. I'm not sure if that's expensive but sounds good enough. After I get the clutch stuff in and installed and the drive-line shortened and installed it will be ready to drive. Well capable anyways. I'll need a exhaust system installed. Might be a little loud without it . Thanks for all the help guys.

I ended up buying those parts off of www.Jegs.com . The part number for the hose listed was actually 361-63011732 and not the one in that thread. I think he was just missing the "3". Thanks for all the help guys. I'll post more pics here soon.

I've just dropped a 350 Chevy with a Chevy Camaro T5 in my 72 Datsun 240z but I'm a little stuck on what clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder to use. I bought a Camaro slave cylinder but the fitting looks like a slide in type with a pin that holds it in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I bought the JTR book but it seems a little vague in this area. Here are some pics of the car if your interested Engine install: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/9976705/1/datsun%20v8%20just%20in?h=6dcc57 radiator mount fab: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/9976705/1/radiator%20just%20in?h=1cd091 Random car pics: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/9976705/1/new%20350?h=0080bc https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/9976705/1/motor%20album?h=ee88f3