revlis240

Dude whose Z is that? The paint job is amazing. I want to know what a job like that costs!

Nice! I referenced the pic and it does have the holes in above the window. Badass, I will order those belts unless I can find a cheaper junk yard solution! Thanks

Only reason Im considering a 4pt is because I dont think my '71 even has a shoulder mount, only a lap belt which i feel is rather useless. Is there an alternative in the middle which ive missed? This diagram is from the Schroth booklet: Seems to me that everyone has their shoulder harness installed incorrectly, as almost every one ive seen is parallel and not crossed over as shown in the diagram. Perhaps the problem is avoided with a Y shaped shoulder part as shown in the PDK picture.

Right, I read that the angle has to be within 20 degrees. Now the PDK strut mount shown here: Seems to be within the reasonable range. Right? For just occasional weekend driving and no racing/events will a 4pt harness suffice?

See the image below. The arrow points to the reinforced thick bolt hole where the seatbelt used to mount. The 1973 parts car I had used to have a lap belt cut out where the red square is in the pic, and in that hole the seatbelt used to reside. The 71 chassis im restoring doesnt even have a hole for that, and so far i can tell only has that 1 hole. I was planning to use a 4 point harness (or do I get a 5 point? I will NOT be racing/tracking this car). With that 1 hole, I dont know how to get the lap part of the belt to mount. I dont have a welder. The shoulder part I was going to mount to the rear strut tower brace. Suggestions? Thanks! EDIT: I think I answered my own question. Upon further evaluation I found this threaded hole on both sides: And Im guessing that was where the factory lap belt went anyway!

hey doc, I know, im not happy about it either, but the previous owner left me little recourse. The seats have been mounted that way for 3 years, without the X pattern, and there has been no warpage of the pan nor major water intrusion from the holes. I sealed the holes with silicone and the car will never be driven in the rain anyway. The original bracing is still partly there ( see first pic), its just been chopped up. I know its not ideal, I just dont know what else to do.

do you think the seat will be ok with that brace? I dont know if it matters anyway, if i hit anyone hard enough to knock the seat off, ill probably be dead anyway

Here is my solution, for more details see my interior revival thread. Thanks for the advice! Thread on interior. likey?

Todays progress! The seats are in! Based on my other tread about seat rails, I did the best i could using some steel to reinforce the bottom of the pan in an X pattern. The seat rail bolts onto a hardened steel plate that bolts to the floor pan and is reinforced by that X brace in the pics. Used all Grade 8 bolts and fasteners in the process. More to come later!

If you were to do that trying to install the trans, how the heck would you get the TO bearing to latch onto the release fork? Doesnt the TO bearing fall off the release fork? Unlike other trans, the T5s release fork doesnt latch onto the to bearing, it seems to just be a loose connection onto the to bearing. Right? EDIT: Im an idiot, I wasnt pushing the fork into the bearing all the way. I see exactly what you mean and I thank you! I think you just saved me hours of work. With the Firewall hole cutting/bellhousing first mounting method, I think ive got my T5 installation half figured out!!! Thanks guys Will report back soon

Todays progress! All of that for $18. Not bad!

drax, youre spot on. I did a lot of reading and prepped the floors by: 1) Chiseling ALL I could 2) Wire wheeling 3) Scuffing with 60 grit sand paper 4) Washing 5) Soaking with MetalReady (POR's Phosphoric Acid metal etcher) 6) Washing 7) Drying with heat gun to make sure surface is 100% dry (very important according to POR) 8) Laying the POR It SHOULD be good for longer than the rest of the car will probably survive. I have a lingering fear some F250 will Tbone me, and if i survive, my hundreds of hours of restoration will go down the drain.

Well...i dont know if itll be THAT dramatic? It took 30 years for it to rust that much, if i get another 5 years out of my por15 treatment itll be fine. Plus...this car will not be leaving its garage unless its a 75º california day. Its not a daily driver On the POR topic, Im not claiming to know much about it, but from my reading it does a little more than cover it up for a little while. Unless you have first hand experience, have you applied it and had the area rust again? Not being a smart-ass. Just here to learn!

The original floor was filled with small holes which i covered up. Plus the rubber plugs werent even sealed well and I used RTV sealant to seal those well. Also, the POR is supposed to make the surface impervious to rust...no?

I removed the factory sound deadening by just chiseling away hour after hour. I bought 100sqft of the edead. Its $1 per sqft and so far I am happy with it. By the time I finish my trunk i think I will have used approx 80sqft for it all. If so ill do the roof.

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I bought my car basically missing its interior. The floors looked like this: Spent 6 hours doing a combo of chisel, dry ice, wire wheel and tears to arrive at this: Spent another 4 hours prepping the floors for/putting on the POR15. After the POR, spent 6 hours putting on the sound deadening material (edead). Finished up the passanger and drivers door as well: Before: After: Door back on, the sound difference is amazing: Now the fun part! Another 6ish hours for insulation and carpet. Went to Lowes and picked up some cheap carpet and insulation: Used some spray adhesive to get the carpet and insulation to stick Now the carpet. Its coming out VERY NICE. It was only $18! I have never cut carpet in my life and I am very impressed. So far Ive only invested approx $220 (but 22 hours) into the floors and I am VERY satisfied. More pics to come when the seats are in!

Yeah thats what i figured I will do. I will create an "x" pattern on the bottom side, under the car, using some flat bar or some small tubing.

just an update on the process, another 2.5 hours doing the passenger side sound deadening. Not a professional quality installation I know, but I lack the desire and the patience to trim the prices perfectly! A simple hammer on the floor sound test shows an amazing difference between the 2 sides. Im happy.

I just realized that even if I do get that bolt out (should be easy with the firewall cutting method), the firewall is so close to the back of the motor that I wonder...will i be able to get the input shaft to slide into the clutch? the bellhousing and clutch have to line up for the the input shaft to slip in. if the engine is so close to the firewall, the transmission will have to tilt to fit, thus the input shaft wont line up. I drew a pic for illustration. Its looking more like ill have to pull the engine. Dropping the auto trans wont be a problem, as there is no input shaft thats sliding into anything. but i dont have any room to slide the trans "back" or forward to get the input shaft to slide in. Make sense?

did you have to remove the dash to cut those holes?

no brand best i can tell. my floor pans are pictured above, I have no other reinforcing around where the seat bolts. How can I make this better?

My previous owner installed what appears to be knockoff aftermarket seats. They slide on a rail, and the prev owner just used a flat piece of steel to bolt the sliders onto the frame. Looks like this: The problem is that the flat piece of steel with the studs sticking out of it is not an ideal way to mount the seat. First of all the stud spins when tightening the nut that goes through the frame. and i cant hold the top because the seat is in the way. The rails from the floor pan have been removed: Any ideas? Thanks!

10+ hours in these floors and theyre still not done! Next step, sound deadening! TIP FOR THOSE WANTING TO POR15 - MAKE SURE YOU STIR THE CAN. I didnt stir the bottom and my first coat was useless, it was almost transparant. Then i figured that most of the "silver" was settled at the bottom of the can and the second coat went nice and thick. I like the way it turned out. From above to this:

awesome! thanks