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N3RB

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Posts posted by N3RB

  1. I use something a little different, they are yellow plastic things that you push inside where the rivet use to go. Except that these have a hole where you can screw a screw in. When you do exactly that the yellow things swell up as the screw goes an, and voila, neat-o interior rivets. ( i got them at my job, ACE hardware). PM me if you want to see some pics of the stuff and what sizes and what it looks like in my car, or just ask me on this thread.

  2. I had the same issue with my z , i did it all new rack new tie rod ends new eurthane bushings that hold the rack in place . I even welded up a bracket that helped hold the rack to the cross member but still the stering wheel shook .

     

    I tried rims off of a known z that didnt shake no luck i did my alingment at work my self 3 times replaced controll arm bushing and swar bar end links still it shook .

     

    Untill one day i pushed up on the steering wheel while driving it quit shaking !!!!! So i took the steering wheel off and rite behind it in the column was a bearing pack sorta like wheel hub bearings .

     

    Little tint pellets for bearings a couple of them were missing so i found a local very well stocked supply shop and found bearings " the balls " in the bearing and managed to fill in the missing ones about 30$ it cost me as they did it for me while it was in my car " great place "

     

    And lordy lordy the shaking went away dont quote me on it fixing youre problem but after buying AZCars controll arms $$$$$$ and rack and such yike who would of thought it could have been so cheap .

     

    Jason

     

     

     

    OMG, I hope your right, im gonna go check that out right now. (yes I do sound like a teenage girl) LOL

  3. I'm not an admin, but at times I can be pretty anal. For search purposes, should this string be titled "Shimmy" at the steering wheel instead of "Seizure". Keeping titles correct helps a lot in searches, and so far I've read nothing dealing with a locked or seized steering wheel or rack (which can happen, but this string does not appear to address this).

     

    sorry about the posting, but I was referring to number 2, not number 1.

     

    Because it does seem like my steering wheel suddenly starts to shimmy side to side violently at 50 mph and up. I thought that "seizure" was a smart word to use. Ill use a more proper car word next time for search purposes.

     

    sei·zure (semacr.gifprime.gifzhschwa.gifr)n.

    1. The act or an instance of seizing or the condition of being seized.

    2. A sudden attack, spasm, or convulsion, as in epilepsy or another disorder.

    3. A sudden onset or sensation of feeling or emotion.

  4. Alot of the people here still have the stock steering rack with no problems. Theres a piece of rubber between the steering wheel rod and rack rod that is called a steering coupler. it sounds like yours may be worn out.

    http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC11/23-4161

     

    Thats a replacement. I would replace a $12 dollar part before replacing a $300 Dollar steering rack

     

    Ya, i replaced that about 6 months ago.

  5. Well, for awhile now my steering wheel shakes vigorously whenever i am at freeway speeds. I got an alignment and my brakes check and they are all good. But my friend pointed out that my boots for my steering rack is cut open and he said that they are supposed to be lubed. So I am thinking to just buy a whole new steering rack for 300 bucks. Because the rack could be corroded(they have been like that for years) . If there is another way to do this cheap that would be great.

  6. I like the design. What parts did you use for the connections? How did you neck down the larger tubing? Did you make it on a lathe?

     

    The parts I used were 1/8" mild steel for the mounting brackets, 1/4" for the pin bracket, 1" gas pipe, and two tractor pins. Nothing was made on a lathe, I sandblasted the mild steel after i welded everything. The cool thing about the whole process is that the only thing I had to fit up was the mounting bracket on the three bolts.

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