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About dippowit-z-

  • Birthday 09/07/1975

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    Concord CA

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  1. Thanks Johnc. Do you happen to have a pic that you can send? I have been staring at this crossmember for ages and can't seem to come up with anything that I like for a strap.
  2. I'm not sure if that is the right term. It was recommended to me by my engine builder to install a torque strap to the driver side of engine to front crossmember in case the motor mount breaks. I have searched hybridz and have not seen any post regarding this matter. Does anyone have any input or pics of such a strap? Any replies much appreciated.
  3. In my last post I mentioned making a second bracket that attaches to the top mounting holes in the pedal assembly and bolts to stock tabs that the original pedal assembly mounted to. You can actually see the tabs directly above the master cylinders in the picture. I am choosing not to attach it to the rollcage. But you are correct, it is very flimsy at this point only being mounted to the firewall.
  4. I removed the collapsible section of the steering column and welded in a flat section in order to bring the brake pedal closer to the gas pedal as stock. The clutch pedal in turn is perfectly centered to stock location. I then mounted the foot pedal section as far right as possible. With the full cage I am guessing that if I ever need the steering column to collapse during an accident I have bigger problems. I actually did this mod years ago along with a very primitive pedal assembly mounting system. After revisiting the project years later I decided to redo the mount. I am glad that I did because I had the pedal assembly way too far forward. Not to mention the older I get the more patient I become. I am happy with the mount so hopefully it works well. Now I have to make a bracket to attach the top of the pedal assembly to the stock upper location.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I built a mounting system that best matches the stock pedal location as it worked just fine for me. The pivot point is 2.5 in. away from firewall and center line came very close to stock location. I will try to attach some pics of the process. I will need to do some practicing before I weld them.
  6. Hello everyone I am currently installing a willwood brake pedal assembly in my 240. I did not get much info from willwood when I called except that the pivot point for the pedals must be a min. of 2" from the firewall. They said that pedal location should be determined by personal preference. I am shooting for matching pedal location to the stock pedal location. Has anyone done installed this pedal assemby? I would appreciate any advice. Thank you
  7. RIP peace Ross, I am so sorry to hear about your passing. You were a great help to me years ago. You sold and stood by a fantastic product. I will run your parts on my car with pride.
  8. Thank you!!. It was a 1990 non turbo 300zx.
  9. Hello! I am in the early stages of reassembly of my 1970 240z. My engine builder REBELLO RACING has provided me with a 3.2 turbo L series. One available option for me to integrate into this build is a traction control option. I was instructed that I need to install a ring and sensor of some sort on the drive axles so that the rear wheel rotation can be read and sent to the computer. I currently have a short nose r200 from a z31 installed in my car thanks to ARIZONA ZCAR. This diff comes stock with sensors built into the diff cover and rings that are mounted inboard of the 5 bolt flange on either side of the diff. These are the Electro-Anti-Lock sensors that are used for the anti lock braking system on a z31. I would like to use these sensors for the traction control option on my new motor. Does anyone have experience doing this exact modification or does anyone see any reason why this cannot be done? KennyD
  10. Anyone use the stock EAL sensors on a shortnose r200 for a traction control option?
  11. Not garbage, for sale!! (I am not trying to sell it now on this forum) I have removed the entire system from the car. I will not be using it for anything but a template. I think that the lighting system is the most difficult part of the rewiring. The charging system is only 5 wires or so and easy to duplicate. My steering column will not have blinkers, starter key, light switch etc. I plan to operate the car with a tasteful line up of toggles. With the exception of blinkers, this can be done. I even had the blinkers on a toggle on my 510. I also had 50 toggle switches on the dash. I would like to reduce that amount to 5 or so. Since the car never leaves my sight, there is no need for a security system like a key or steering wheel lock. I will use the light switch from my 510 for my z since it can be mounted on the dash. Thanks for the reply
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