240zwannabe
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Posts posted by 240zwannabe
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I wish I had access to my other pictures of it in primer, but I'm currently deployed so I don't have that camera with me.
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I did something similar with my Z. I wasn't trying to recreate any particular tail light panel I just thought it would look good. The pictures are old, I have finished the body work and the car sits in primer right now. I have not been able to finish it due to back to back deployments to Iraq/Afghanistan. Enjoy!
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OK, so what happens when the motor stops rotating? Are you able to rotate it again from the same spot or do you have to turn it backwards?
If you rotate it backwards does it stop in the same spot? This all started with an ignition problem so pull the cap and make sure the rotor is turning.
From there you have to inspect the valve train, make sure you didn't loose a valve spring or have a bent valve. My background is V-8's somebody who really knows these engines may be able to come up another idea
Yes, exactly. If I turn it by hand, it will crank over exactly one time and stop in the same spot. This whole problem arose while the car was sitting waiting for me to replace the steering rack, then the coil pack went bad and now this issue.
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OK, today I got a chance to crank the motor over by hand and try the new starter out for real. It continues to lock up in the exact same position. It turns over exactly one time and just stops...AAHHH
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First I'd put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and try to turn the motor. If it turns freely look into the electrical system. Make sure the ground connection is good and solid. If the motor is at all loose you might be able to turn it just by turning the fan. My money is on the electrical system. If you suspect the ground you can use a jumper cable from the block to the neg. post to create a good known ground. I've seen wires that looked good but were rotted inside so give things a good tug.
hope this helps
OK, I'll try to turn the motor over by hand this afternoon and post back up with the results. I don't see it being the ground because the car ran just fine before hand.
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I had an ignition issue and upon replacing the bad coil my starter is not able to crank the engine. I thought it was a faulty starter so I order one from Malaysia, I got it put in today and it's still doing the same thing. I then thought my battery had taken a **** on me, sure enough it had. I got a new one and it's still doing it! Can somebody please shine some light on me?
It's an 1997 rb25det
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Does anybody know if this is possible? I looked around for a while but couldn't find anything. My GT3076R on my RB25 has a bad oil seal and they want $1200 to rebuild it. I figure I'll just find a solid used H35W. Thanks for the help in advance.
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I ended up just installing a push button starter in it.
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I looked for an ignition relay but because of the Power FC, there isn't one. The only thing I can think of now is bad grounds, but that wouldn't explain the fact that I still drove it for the rest of the day...
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Alright, I finally got some time to get a test light on that wire and I have no voltage. Where should I look for the problem?
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Long story short, I changed the oil in my car yesterday. While taking off the oil filter I knocked the starter solenoid wire off. I put it back on and lower my car back to the ground but now it won't crank. My Power FC tells me I have 12.5 volts with the ignition on. Finally, the car starts just fine. I drove the car for the rest of the day without any issues. Today, I go to get in my car to drive to the track after not driving it all day and it won't crank again! I went and bought some brake cleaner and sprayed my starter solenoid terminal and inside the plug and it still won't crank. It's dark now and I can't see anything to work on it so does anyone have any other ideas?
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I personally took my entire car down to bare metal. You'll find a lot of things that will eventually become larger problems down the road. Buy a pneumatic file board for sure if this is the route you choose to take. It will make your life 100x easier when it comes time to sand primer. Like stated before a high-build primer is a very good choice for either way you decide to go. It will help you out with small imperfections in body work.
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Well, after reading the most obvious post in the forum I found my answer.
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hello,
I am in dyer need of help right now, I have 3 days to plan an entire car build which keeps changing. Right now, I'm stuck on a differential issue which concerns the 240sx diff and the 280z axles. I tried searching but with the new and improved Hybridz search function it sort of took it's toll. The dilema is, completely stripping my sr 240sx with KAAZ 2 way and swapping it into the Z while I'm in Iraq. I really hate asking this question because I know its been answered a million times but, What do I need to do to make a 240sx short nose work in my Z? Thank you so much in advance.
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Everybody, it's been great. I've learned waayyy too much on this forum over the years. I never posted much because I mostly searched for info. I'm deploying to Iraq within the next week so I'll be counting on you guys for plenty of pictures to satisfy my Z needs! Hopefully my old work will have my Z done when I get back!
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Ill check that tonight
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Ok here's the story, my car was broken into on post at ft. Hood, they covered the entire inside of my car in laundry detergent and now my relays click and my starter engages and disengages while cranking over. Is the problem in my starter solenoid or is it else where?
I'm in a huge hurry to fix this problem as I am deploying to iraq in about 34 days. Please help me!
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Ok my car is still having this problem. Please anybody know what it could be?
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i hate to ask but what is a CTS? god i feel like a newb asking that..
wow i'm an idiot. nevermind i figured it out haha
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when i got in my car this morning, it started right up. this is so weird!
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i hate to ask but what is a CTS? god i feel like a newb asking that..
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First thing I would check is your Grounds, battery posts not corroded etc. Next find some specs on your coolant temp sensor and make sure it is working correctly. Sounds like you are over fueling or starving, a bad CTS usually causes over fueling making an engine hard to start.
Might also check and make sure you have a good strong spark. The pickup module for my 280Z went out recently causing similar problems. Sometimes the engine would have weak spark, or the ignition would cut out intermittently and wouldn't start if it stalled. Other times it would run like a top and start just fine. Well that is if SRs have a dizzy... just kinda generalizing FI engines here XD.
the car never runs over 181 degrees F. and thats if im on the highway running 3000rpm's+ for long periods of time. it has an autometer water temp gauge in it.
i just went and had the battery and alternator volts measured and they're both doing alright. a buddy of mine had a similar problem to mine and those are what they ended up being.
when i got back from the auto store i messed with the fuel pump lines and bolts a little and it started a little easier but still not like it used to.
i am in a huge hurry to figure this out. i'm active duty military and i'm supposed to drive 2.5 hours to dallas early thursday to catch a plane home. please help!
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ok here's whats up...today i went to walmart and i noticed my temperature was doing some crazy stuff. idling at 150 degrees at stop lights and going to 180 degrees in parking lots. when i came back out to my car it had a lot of trouble starting. my ecu was clicking and making a bunch of noise. after it started i noticed my right turn signal was back to normal timing (it used to be too fast). if i pumped the gas it would eventually fire up. when i got back to my barracks i turned it off and attempted to start it multiple times. sometimes it would fire right up but most of the time i had to pump the gas. i put a new walbro in it about 2 weeks ago. when i did this it had a worn rubber seal that goes around the rim of the gas tank where the fuel pump mounts. could this be an issue of the seal not sealing the tank for pressure? a few days ago i noticed a gas smell that was pretty strong inside the car while driving. i was also wondering if the head gasket could be the problem also? it's got a 2mm metal HG in it....please help!
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theres a 280z down here in a junkyard in killeen with back glass and possibly a good hatch. pm me if you want me to check it out for you
'71 Camaro Tail lights & tail light panel redo - pics inside!
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I'm not sure that reverse lights are required? If you guys can provide some insight on that, as I'm sure it varies between states. I searched around a bit but couldn't find anything regarding this topic.