Gareth. J.
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Posts posted by Gareth. J.
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Looks great so far, it's a very neat fit and you have heaps of room!
Do you get any reversion with the short manifold and short stacks, Maybe this was the cause of the fire?
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Would a properly padded (not that SFI 45.1 fire rated hard plastic) cage be any harder on your head than the stock interior? The standard 'A' pillars have basically no padding under the vinyl, the horizontal section above the door is the same also.
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Looks to me like a Kameari air dam with a custom splitter underneath.
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You can try a buying agent like Jesse Streeter (Jessestreeter.com) I've used him for many parts sent to Oz. I get quotes from RHD Japan and then send him the details, He'll beat their price every time.
I recently got the Marugen Shokai three piece rear spoiler and the quality is second to none. Yes, they can be a little slow but it's worth the wait.
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Added some VHT wrinkle coat to the valve cover, carb tops and blocked back the raised lettering to bare aluminium.
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Does anyone reproduce the factory versions in particular the fibreglass type fitted to the 432's ?
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I'd like to try that also
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I purchased 'spool' H beam con rods for my L28 from ebay in Australia. No issues with quality so far, rev to 7200 on track.
The only problem I had was I didn't realise the con rods were for 'floating' pins, not press in as per the factory setup. I had to get some extra machining done to my pistons to be able to fit retainers for the floating pin.
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The Urethane upper insulators are known to break the threaded top section off the shock shaft. Not enough flex in the urethane. That's why camber plates run spherical bearings and the factory rubber insulators have a lower durometer (60A).
Oh, I hadn't heard of this before. I'm not sure of the hardness of the SWM items, although they are urethane they certainly aren't the hardness of energy suspension urethane. I should check the hardness, maybe see if they are available in rubber?
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I've already run a die over them and the new threads are terrible, I think they are beyond saving. I didn't realise I'd have to de-bond the urethane to remove the studs, so I guess a new pair is required.
I got them used from a club member, They are available from Stuart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney Australia $115ea.
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I have offset urethane strut top insulators, I have managed to strip the threads on one stud and a second stud is getting very close to stripping also. They're offset to give -1 degree camber so it's not a case of buying a cheap easy to source replacement.
Is there anyway to replace the studs in these top hats?
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My cage is bolt in. The rear section was welded in place with most of the interior stripped out, so I'm not sure how removable it will be. I'm 6ft3" tall and I had to remove the seat rails to get enough head clearance on the side.
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Was it still holding together and if it melted totally is there anything else to hold the mount together?
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I had a similar problem with my recent RB20det close ratio gearbox install. Have you checked the clutch fork? I knocked mine when doing the install and one side of retaining spring on the throw out bearing/clutch fork had popped off (it was the big horse shoe shaped one). This caused the carrier to bind and the clutch was basically doing nothing. Unfortunately it was a box out job to refit the spring which takes all of 20 seconds.
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I run the type 'A' front spoiler on my gnose and it's pretty much a track day only setup. The issue I have is when you try to go up driveways, or over speed humps. The nose is a lot further forward than the standard setup so it can bottom out before the wheels even start to go up the incline. The spoiler only makes this issue worse.
A urethane type might take a few more knocks without damage.
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I have the MSD 6AL-2 on my 240Z. I run a modified scorcher dizzy with the magnetic pickup, the pick up is almost identical to the 280ZX item but is actually from a GM Holden. IIRC the purple/green wires are the correct ones to use for magnetic pickups. It would be easier if you could put up the installation diagram that comes with it.
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Here's my interior. Nismo Compe wheel, Hakosuka 5spd shift knob, Peterbuilt push start button, JDM 240kph speedo, replica 10,000rpm taco, Calander clock, New OEM door cards, Volt meter swap.
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Gareth. J. wheel and tire specs please...lookin good!
Thanks guys, they are Konig Rewinds, sandblasted and sprayed with satin black epoxy(rattle can). 16x8, 0 offset. 225/50 Bridgestone RE11s semi slicks, guard lips needed to be rolled.
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Not my pics but here's a couple of my ride from our xmas bbq
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Yeah I copied Monzsters setup from the pictures posted, His is very neat but mine is a little more 'backyard'. Lol. Sorry for the hijak
I like yours duragg, it looks very OEM! How hard was it to get the height correct?
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I may as well post my results here too. I made my own captive mounts around a year ago. I used a spare set of the 'ears that mount to the block, then I used the circular end of a spare moustache bar, welded these together using a template I made of stock mounts ( for correct height/angle). I then bent up some 3mm steel for the crossmember end of the mounts. I run poly moustache bar mounts, it causes a little shimmy when idling at the lights.
Can't post a link but here is a vid on you tube http://youtu.be/JFVTr9a6wkk Idling at 900 with a 76deg high lift cam.
I didn't use those bolts, they were the only ones I had big enough on first trial fit.
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Here's a rear shot of the Z
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New door decals and a marugen shokai rear spoiler
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New door decals and a marugen shokai rear spoiler
Air box design - Weber/Mikuni w/horns
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Do the RAMAIR filters have an internal spring? I had some 'uni filter' socks get sucked inside out and into the stacks on my old triple set up on a track day.