heavyweight280

like title says, I want the set of resitors that go under the distributor. Unfortunately I dont have a pic to show what I mean. Apparently, whoever had my car before me never put them on the car, and I want them to try and sort out some electrical isues I am having. I could also use the entire ground harness that connects to negative battery cable. Thx

Edit: Got it. mods lock I am in need of a 1978 ECU / ECM . I believe the part number is A11 600 000, however I would like 1978 year only. I am currently running a 77 and i read somewhere the internals are different from 78, however they part number is the same. I am trying sort out a problem, and I want this out of the equation. Let me know if you have one. Thanks.

1978 280z I am trying to find what is causing this. The motor starts and runs almost flawlessly. Then at times, without warning, it will stall, usually while in motion, a couple times while idling. This is completely sporadic in that it may go days, weeks, even a month without repeating. No warning, just a quick jerk followed compete loss of power for a brief moment that lasts half a second, 3-7 seconds, then another jerk and running fine again. Most recently it when it started raining heavy i had no spark for 40 mins. I know I have fuel, fuel pressure, so the problem is spark. I am thinking it is ignition related because I don't notice any disruption of power with radio, wipers or other electronics. While looking for clues I found this, mounted next to ignition coil. Looks beat up. What is this, will it cause these symptoms, and where can I get another?

Buddy sent me this. Song is kinda meh... but Z

Solved. 2 injectors were stuck open. Runs like a champ now. Updating so it can be helpful. Close and lock

I I actually noticed that on the youtube vid. It started around 40psi, and gradually made its way down to around 20. I let it run for like 10ish-15ish minutes and it died about 3-4 mins after I stopped filming. And the clear filter is between the tank and the fuel pump inlet.

Well I had removed the tank as well so the old gas was drained. I did put some injector cleaner and premium from citgo. Anyways, here are a couple vids of what it is like atm. Unfortunately, my free time ended, gonna have to take it to a mechanic. It is probably something really small and I came a along way from where it was, but yeah... Anyways, will post what was wrong with it when i find out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym8Tn0f9c24 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTt82gddI28

I had 4 gallons in there at first, just went to put 2 more, but made no real difference. New pump is in, finally getting fuel again. Idle still bad. Now the guage reads around 40psi, slow idle, smoke. Turned it off and it wont start up again... Thinking of taking it in to mechanic at this point, no more free time to play with it.

Update: Removed the small cone shaped strainer and it appeared clean. Also the hose to the inlet was dry. Pump is getting current when attempting to start, so at this point I am guessing the pump has gone out. Last attempt, I will buy a bit more fuel and see if that makes any difference, probably wont. But if that fails, I am off to the parts store to get another pump unless someone knows something I don't. Will post results later.

will check first thing tomorrow morning. Couldn't check the current cause my tester is playing the a** but will try to check that tomorrow as well. Thanks

gonna go look at it before it gets dark. It seems like the idle degrades almost immediatly. It idles decent for around 30-60 seconds, then gradually drops... Within about 5 minutes, it cuts off and wont start again. Let it sit for a long time, and it restarts and does the same

Update: I installed the fuel guage and ran some wire through the tanks return to see if it was clogged. There was something muddy on the wire after running it through a few times, but I did get the wire in to go in pretty far after a while. Guessing it may have been rust, or hopefully one of those stupid mud wasps didn't make their way in. (usually had the lines taped off, but for a couple days it was exposed.) Anyway I went a head and installed a see through fuel filter from the tank to the fuel pump, and a new fuel filter up front. What I am noticing is that after starting the car while cold, the fuel pressure goes to around 30psi and it idles decent for a little while, then shortly after, it starts idling poor again, fuel pressure drops to like 18-20, then it cuts off. After that, it really wont start. I went to look at the fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump and it is pretty empty, not much fuel made its way in, so now I am guessing the fuel pump is dying? skirkland1980: I am using the distributor that came with the car. Guess I should mention the car has the stock l28e and is a 1978 280z. Thanks for response

I recently got my car started aftering being in several pieces for about 2 years. I was having trouble getting it to start, thought maybe it was flooded, and disconnected the fuel pump relay and fuel pump contol relay(I think its called) in hopes of getting some fuel out. Well it fired right up after that, idled at aroun 1100 rpm and continued running for some reason until I killed it. Plugged relays in and it starts, but idles at under 500rpm, is shaky, and smokes a lot. rotating the distributor doesn't really fix anything. If i get on the gas, it stalls and wont start again. Disconnect the relays again, It starts. idles smooth, and runs until I give it gas or turn the key. Reconnect relays, back to bad idle, smokey, and stalls as soon as I get on gas. Any input? Advice? Does this sound like something may be wrong with my fuel delivery? Timing? Something electrical? Thanks in advance

I like this. Will look into thanks so much

My battery tray is rotted and I wanted to relocate my battery to the hatch anyway. I dont want to run positives wires without fuses, so I was wondering if one could use a fuse between the battery and starter. I know very little about electronics so asking here. Was thinking of something like this http://www.iboats.com/Blue-Sea-Class-T-Fuses/dm/cart_id.403958879--session_id.939816292--view_id.469653 http://www.iboats.com/5108-300A-SEA-Fuse-Blue-Sea-Systems/dm/cart_id.603479173--session_id.939816292--view_id.247988 To much? To little? basically what I want is something that won't blow when trying to start the car, and will blow before the car fries if the wire ever shorts. Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.