bfsnail

Sorry, was looking for something more around 1k. I guess it wasn't really clear in my description.

How much you asking? And do you mean the car was painted in December of 2010?

I'm looking for a relatively straight and rust free S30 chassis to continue my project. I live in southern NM and would be willing to go pretty much from Phoenix, AZ to Amarillo, TX and as far north as the NM border for the right car/price. At a minimum I need a rolling chassis so I can tow it home and anything over and above that is icing on the cake.

Awesome, thanks!

Just wondering if I'm missing a portion of the rebuild kit. In my "How to Rebuild Your NISSAN/DATSUN OHC Engine" book it says "Find the two main-cap side seals and nails or cores, in your gasket set" I've looked through my set a couple times and all I can find are the rubber side seals. They do have what look to be thin metal rods already glued to them... Are these pre-glued metal rods and the "nails or cores" the same thing? Am I missing something? Will I be good to just use those as well as some silicone RTV to make a good seal? Thanks ~ Rob

Both leftover z and dhp123166 have money. Thanks!

If they are uncracked on the portion that is visible and can still be mounted pretty securely, they will work just fine. Your paypal address sir?

Excellent, your paypal sir?

How much shipped to 88310?

I'm looking for the plastic tail light surrounds for a 280z. I dont need the silver/chrome part, just the black portion. Also looking for a drivers side headlight bucket with no dents/rust. Thanks! Rob ::Edit:: This is working so well I guess I'll list a couple other things I'm looking for up here. 1) Full edis-6 system (coilpack, sensor, missing tooth wheel & control module) 2) Same side intercooler (dimensions that work well with 280z) 3) BOV

Awesome idea! I might have to try that if this slide hammer isnt working out...

Anyone happen to know the size/pitch of the bolt that goes in the center? I thought i had it right but one small tap on the slide hammer and it popped right out

I was thinking about the slide hammer, but the only one i can find has a 5/8 fine thread to it and I cant find a nut like that anywhere. Do you think a bondo dent puller would have enough umph to do it?

So I'm trying to remove the rear cap for the crank and have been following the directions in the Datsun engine rebuild book and for the life of me can't get it out. I've done the whole thread the bolt into the cap and use a block of wood and a prybar to get it out, but to no success. Also tried hitting it with a rubber mallet while prying as well as lubing it all up with liquid wrench to no avail. Any other tricks you have used to remove it? I also noticed today that the two "keyholes" on either side of the cap are filled with a black rubbery substance and a very thin metal rod... I have a bad feeling it doesnt come from the factory like this. Ideas? You can see the keyholes, rubber and rods below.

I fail at copying text apparantly... Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460 Duration(In/Ex): 270/260 (straight from the z store) But it turns out my original cam is going to be just fine. Thanks for the helpful replies, since posting in desperation last week I have talked to a few others and read a few things and basically came to the conclusion that was found here. With the power I'm looking to get, money would be better spent elsewhere if the original cam is still good. One step closer to a fun car...