Zipper

I do not have those MSA belts. But looking at the pictures can say I would not like the installation in my car (early 260). The retractor mechanism behind the seat would obstruct rearwards movement, a big issue for me with legroom and '04 350Z seat install. Pictures not that clear, but it seems the buckle side is just a belt, not rigid? Seems like it would just fall down between the seat all the time. Also those metal buckles would be bad for Arizona sunshine. I went with Wesco roadster belts and am satisfied. These using the 8" rigid sleeves. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/noname.html The retractor mechanism hangs from the rear pillar adjacent to the hatch. Fitting seats seems a custom project - I'm tall (6'5") and was looking for max leg/head room. Everything ends up a compromise, but I made big efforts (power tools, cutting disks, etc.) to reduce obstructions behind the seat. I might advise installing seats before settling on belts.

What's the first problem? My $.02 - I bolt the stand to the engine while it's hanging from a lift. You can make adjustments to the mount positions while it's like that with no weight on the stand. Make sure you have good quality bolts, and a selection of spacers/beefy washers so you don't bottom bolts. Be CAREFUL with those 3 wheeled stands, especially when attempting to move or roll. Can tip fast with bad results. My first advice is get a 4 wheeled stand.

I had the same problem, posted it up somewhere - wrong product in the right box. Found the thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112638-steering-rack-bushings/

Thanks for link Leon. Looks like you went the other way - put a ZX fan into a S30. Blade clearance looks close to me from your pics, but I didn't find your thread complaining of disaster!

Thanks all for feedback. I checked the tranny mount and it's solid - not allowing more than a little forward tilt. Fan clutch seems very stiff to me though, so I think it's my main problem (aside from the gash in my radiator and broken fan). Can't test right now as I have no cooling. But I know the fan wasn't routinely roaring at higher RPMs. I read this elsewhere, but find the water pumps and fan clutch parts seem identical for '72 - 83 Z and ZX. However, the ZX fans themselves seem to be a different design, apparently extend farther forward to clear 3-row pulley. I have two old fans, but they're the same - not sure if ZX or Z fans, so can't compare.

New motor?! OK - so fan clutch spinning too close to engine RPM. This is a replacement fan clutch (off another engine) due to earlier one not providing enough cooling, no resistance. Unfortunately, not easy to test without a radiator fix first. And at this point, I might be looking at a new radiator, considering electric, etc. More research. Don't think my alternator is stout enough for electric draw...

Seems possible, like maybe fan clutch too stiff, fan turning too high RPM. But I don't find complaints like this when I search Datsun sites.

Bought a new one for the build last summer - I slid under car on ramps yesterday and gave it a shake/bench press, but didn't get much reaction. I'll take it out to see if the rubber is separated.

Twice now my fan has hit the radiator during spirited driving. Ignored and repaired light damage the first time, but now my freshly repaired/painted radiator is cut pretty deep at same spot. What's the cause? Looks like a single blade on the fan moved forward at least 1/2" and hit under the tank lip - top of radiator. There's some other scars at 2-5 o'clock on face of core (looking from fan), but main strike was at the top. Pretty sure this happened when getting on RPMs (6000ish), not necessarily involving braking or maneuvers. This is an L28 in an early 260Z, OEM type radiator, I think pulley and fan clutch from 280ZX. Space to radiator always looked OK to me - runs maybe 1" from radiator, closer near the top due to radiator lip. - Weak fan drawn forward at speed - plausible - fan is old and has a couple radial cracks in front, not all the way through. - Engine mounts and torque - plausible - tranny mount is new and seems solid, engine mounts appear OK, but not sure effective test. - Fan clutch - too much resistance at RPM overwhelming fan? - Something else? I examined the engine mounts and tried various shake/pull. Seems like engine is maybe tilting forward or yawing, allowing fan to hit. I removed belt and checked water pump shaft - no apparent wobble, just a little squeak. Fresh radiator paint on one blade, traveled under the radiator lip on way up: Not great pic, but spacing looks reasonable to me - even bent, blade is approx. 1/2" from radiator tank lip, 1" from fins Blade is history - plastic stressed at base of blade

Good to hear. Would be great if you could collect some data re: setup and impressions from a racer. Springs and rates, alignment settings, supporting mods, damper settings, etc.

You didn't mention alignment?

No quirks? Early 260Z owners sometimes need a guide book on parts ordering. "1974" or "260Z" often won't get you the right thing. Easy if you've already figured it out, but a puzzle for the uninitiated. For a given item, it could be: - Same as the 240Z part (a lot of stuff - like body parts) - Same as the 280Z part (other things - like steering rack) - 260Z specific, early or late - L26, ignition, strange fuel pump wiring, etc. - What Nissan had onhand - OK, I can't swear to this, but I'm suspicious

Adding to the conversation here... Yes, another quirk 260Z owners need to know - in this case the Early 260Zs get the 280Z part, not the 240Z. However, I went though some installation pain when I got a set of 240Z bushings in a 260Z/280Z box from Prothane. Right box, wrong part. A set from Hyperflex fixed the issue, but not before I spent a lot of time trying to make them work: Correct from Hyperflex on the left (260Z/280Z style). Incorrectly labeled Prothane on the right (240Z style)

^Same Completely unfamiliar with RB engines. But when my WRX made a sound like that, it was rod knock from a spun bearing. Like a ball peen drum tattoo at around 3000 rpm. You get a chance to inspect that old oil/filter? Oil dipstick out in the sunlight clearly showed metal filings, in my case. Hope it's something else for you.

You don't mention a fan here? Useful cooling device! I had overheating at idle/stops with my L28 due to a fan clutch, spinning too freely. Changed it out and problem completely solved. What was the fan on your old engine? But if you have a blown head gasket, you need to tackle that first.

Congrats! Hope you already worked on the brakes.

The dread 260z seat belt interlock reset. Lots of threads about it - here's one re: how to defeat it: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/80626-260z-seatbelt-interlock-defeat/

I had a problem like this recently on my 260z - completely ill-fitting, terrible struggles. Bottom line: the Prothane bushings I bought were the wrong ones in the right box. Was 240z bushings in a 280z labelled box. My supplier Zcarsource in Phoenix came through with an Energy Suspension kit instead, fit very well. Prothane are one piece bushings with a split joint. Energy Suspension are 2 piece, install a bit easier. Engine was out, so access no problem. In my case, passenger side was too loose (240z is thinner, I believe), allowed rack to slide. Driver side was way too tight, too wide and I.D. too small. If parts mixup, I would guess you have kinda the opposite issue? Passenger side looked like this (again, this is my 260z - 280z-style rack): Driver's side - showing gap. Had actually shaved the width already just to get it seated in the channel: Side by side - width difference evident on passenger side (right), inner diameter difference on driver side (left):