Zipper

Will miss the orange 240Z, but good luck Greg!

Slow reply - Yep, I used TTT tie rods too. They have both right/left and right/right thread options, so check what's on the car. Have to drill steering arms. Adding parts could help, but you need a patient alignment tech too. Problems move around as you add parts (compromises). I also have out-of-whack rear toe, too much and uneven left/right. I think I can feel that at the track. I'm interested in adjustable arms rather than bushings.

jgkurz - You mention 'dartiness', also lowering springs and bump steer spacers. Have you considered bump steer? Hybridz bumpsteer-faq Not a suspension expert - but I experienced a big improvement in handling feel with similar mods to you after changing to adjustable tie rods. On alignment rack, toe changes were obvious by ratcheting suspension down/jacking up. Was able to tune a lot out with adjustable tie rods. Bigger tires, quick steering arms, and a smaller steering wheel contribute to heavy steering feel.

Check with cgsheen on this site, maybe get some pics. Something sounds odd to me I have these on my 260z and there is a huge range of adjustment - think I could lay the rails on the ground if I wanted.

Same. I got new seat belts from Wesco Performance - the roadster type. I used this approach to install 350Z seats - cut off extraneous stuff and weld cross members, use S30 rails: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103970-another-350z-seat-install-for-tall-people/ Super comfortable for me - but went to a track day and my helmet hit roof hard, so I have them fixed position, bolted straight through the floor now. Cut more from seats to get them as far back and low as possible and removed the sliders.

No advice on solid rear, but that is awesome footage. Looks quick. And by awesome, I mean utterly terrifying Mad Max stuff. Have you considered Roo Bars on all quarters?!

Here's another thread talking about a 'K' stamped P79 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57930-how-much-is-a-shaved-p90-worth/ That stamp isn't listed on the Atlanticz cam specs page. I just looked at couple heads I have here - have a 'B' marked P90 from a turbo (expected). And my P79 is blank. That 'K' looks like a similar font/marking style as the stock 'B' on my P90. My 260Z also has a F54/P79. Get it running (but maybe without the flat tops).

I think they're on Amazon? R200 "longnose" is standard R200, no? I think shortnose has different requirements, but the OBX for R200 should work for your diff I would think. (Disclaimer: Don't have an OBX, have an MFactory).

Interested too. Someone will point to the FAQ thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/). But it was started in 2005 and is out-of-date. Silver Mine has a bunch of options now, for example, and solid reviews from experience are tough to sort out. But clarify your requirements. You talking about road racing "track"? 20 minute sessions, concern over fade, etc.? I've been using the stock brakes with Motul and Porterfield R4S pads at track days - but I still have to bleed between sessions or can lose a lot of bite. Also think the pedal feel with stock drums is wooden and requires frequent fussy adjustments. Like the idea of rear discs providing better feel and power.

I paid $825 shipped. You interested? No, didn't think so. Just posting for smells apparently.

Satisfied buyer here in the Group Buy thread. No mystery, no foggy. I bought what was advertised and got it. Am pleased with my product and factory warranty. You have no intention or interest but are shitting in the thread. Frankly think it violates forum rules. That's clarity.

exlifesaver posted two weeks ago congratulating a successful install post by an endurance racer. Why questioning his thread? I bought the MFactory diff a few months back. exlifesaver easy to deal with. Arrived in 2 days! Install was straightforward - swapped out open carrier and added new carrier bearings. Measured 0.001" additional backlash after install with same shims, etc. So far so good. Have been to the track twice since and really liked the change - still learning how to use traction, especially to pick up throttle earlier in corners without inside tire spin. On a really hot/greasy day I set a personal best at my local track - beat it by a few 10ths on a day where others were off 1.5 seconds or more. Only other change was CV axles installed at same time.

Genius! (fear no spindle pin). Get an aviation tech with his pliers and it's perfect.

"Tighten all Grade 8 bolts to 35 ft/lbs. These bolts have a cross drilled head for safety wire." Nuts mounting adapters to stub axle and companion flange specify 50 lbs. Let me know if you need more info or a scan or something. That hub side safety wire about kills me. I'd like a lift, drop control arms for access, and an aviation tech to do the work.

Struggling with this issue with my early 260z - starvation and fuel pump cavitation at anything under half a tank at track days (with my modest street tire G's). But no real problems on the street unless a very hot day - can go to below 1/4 tank no problem. I'm suspicious of pinholes/leak in my pickup tube. My tank is coated. Have been thinking of a solution like this, but trying to keep fuel gauge sender - like a replacement pickup via bulkhead next to the sender for wrench access - maybe a Holley hydramat on end of pickup. Are bulkhead fittings reliable? Next option is significant rework of tank - chopping, drop-in pump with baffles, etc. A lot more work.