glitched

asking because this is on my shopping list and i want to know if it will be an issue http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-2995

i was only told it's a "JAPANESE CERAMIC COATED HEADER(6 into 3 to 2)" looking for the brand, does anyone recognize it?

So after picking up this 78 280 last fall and putting it into storage, Spring is finally here so i'm getting familiar with it. Before I had the means, I always appreciated other forums where members posted their actual results. I took it to an autocross as what I considered a trust building exercise Weighs 2487lbs. Put it on my corner weighting scales to see what it tips in at. This is with a full tank of gas, and the big bumpers removed and spare tire removed. Makes 165hp & 180 ft/lbs. Took it to the dyno and after posting the results here, learned how much I'm restricted and that there's lots of room for improvement. If you want to read the Dyno thread (with full build list): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112455-stroker-dyno-results/ *This only counts as a total weight, the corner weights don't count because i didn't bother to even out the scales on my slanted garage floor.

not that it really matters all that much but interesting Informational weight measurements for front bar from a suitcase scale: Stock bar weighs 5.6lbs ST bar weighs 14.3lbs

Yeah that's the long term planned but first steps right? I ordered a wideband.

Yeah, that's one of the things I was implying to consider from my first reply to everyone... ... " No, I'm not an expert in dyno science where numbers can be affected by type or setup (or shops that "race" their dynos with other local shops)." ...

I was poking around rebello's website and they have a PLX device listed. This sounds like it could be a weekend project, would get me some useable information, and would be a good step down the road for EMS right? http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6 Edit: nevermind, would have to tap the coated header for the sensor hole.

So it sounds like doing it right will be a major project, so that wont be happening this summer because i want a working car for the season. I've also heard ITB could be an option, and again i'm showing my ignorance, but i dont think that goes with megasquirt? If there are any weekend project ideas i could do, i'd accept those suggestions, otherwise i'm just going to drive it as is this summer. Also, i think i'm gonna mount my gopro under the hood and watch the fuel pressure gauge while going for a short drive..

I contacted Nistune, i would have to rewire the the car with a new loom for a newer ecu. I'd really want something as plug and play as possible to minimize things that can go wrong. If i went with a megasquirt would i have to do the same?

Didnt mean to come off that way. and have not taken any offence. just playing ball. I've been on various car forums since 2001. I'm also now in contact with Datsun Parts LLC, he remembers building the motor back in 2008. Got any links or pointers to point me in the direction for engine managment? I'm not sure if this would be something i could do myself. But i have read up on nistune a couple years ago, whats this about switching to a z31 ecu?

I Didn't choose the builder, and I didn't buy the motor. Like usual when you buy a car someone's already built and put money into, I got a deal as he sold it for a LOT less than put into it. I knew going in that it wouldn't be of the same level of a rebello motor. I still can't really complain.

Oh, duh, yeah, for some reason when you said ground strap i went strait to thinking of engine grounding and a braided metal ground strap from engine to chasis. It's all black.

Uh, where's the ground strap supposed to be?

Or maybe there's a bench racer mentality of what a build can do? No, I have not done any digging yet of other dynos of fuel injected strokers (without ITBs). No, I'm not an expert in dyno science where numbers can be affected by type or setup (or shops that "race" their dynos with other local shops). No, I'm not even all that knowledgeable nor experienced about the car and what a build should do. I'm a "driver" and shade tree mechanic who bought this car last fall and put it into storage until spring. Since I bought it, the only work I've done is replaced the alternator, rewired the electric fans (previous owner had them powered off the ignition coil as a quick fix because he didnt have time to do it right before he sold it to me), installed longer wheel studs, replaced wheel bearings, and installed a front sway bar. Anyway, BEGi FPR and the pressure gauge reads within 40-70 No aftermarket computer or anything, nothing to tune except timing really, and that's at 45 I was running 93 octane. No detonation. Smells a little rich to me. They used descriptors like "good/clean/crisp" when making comments on the smell. They did not hook up AFR. I asked them about when i pulled the plugs at home, they were black and smelled of gas (but dry) and they said that wasn't an issue. I went to Kelly Moss because they've been around for a long time and have experience and are a proper race shop, so I was leaning on their expertise.

Took the car to the dyno today. http://youtu.be/4BwdM0fj3ZI? Fast forward to 1:28 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wlWMrXAQsQg/UXa_fe9mBgI/AAAAAAAACms/ywbieKYlx4g/s1048/20130423_120548.jpg Motor was built by Datsun Parts LLC and has about 2000 miles on it now. Build list: N42 block N42 Head (Full Port & Polish) Stainless valves 11/1 compression 490/290 cam schneider double coil springs and crommoly retainers LD28 forged crank L24 piston rods ARIAS Pistions (flat heads with valve pockets) Full floating pins JDM timing set ARP studs arizona zcar aluminium performance oil pan JDM ceramic coated header (6 into 3 to 2) (intake manifold also ceramic coated) 3in exhaust with double glasspack JSK fuel rail 270cc turbo injectors 60mm throttle body Rising Rate fuel regulator Cold air intake NGK plugs Fidanza aluminum flywheel Centerforce clutch 83 Trubo 5 speed R200 open diff Royal Purple 10-50 engine oil and Trans oil