asuly

This is an excerpt from the IRS website: Example. You donate your car to a local high school for use by their students studying automobile repair. Your credit union told you that the "blue book" value of the car is $1,600. However, your car needs extensive repairs and, after some checking, you find that you could sell it for for $750. You can deduct $750, the true fair market value of the car, as a charitable contribution. Since the Kelley blue book doesn't go back to 1977 that leaves me to determine the fair market value correct? Sorry I'm not trying to prove you wrong or anything you definitely know more than me. I'm just checking.

This is an excerpt from the IRS website: Example. You donate your car to a local high school for use by their students studying automobile repair. Your credit union told you that the "blue book" value of the car is $1,600. However, your car needs extensive repairs and, after some checking, you find that you could sell it for for $750. You can deduct $750, the true fair market value of the car, as a charitable contribution. Since the Kelley blue book doesn't go back to 1977 that leaves me to determine the fair market value correct? Sorry I'm not trying to prove you wrong or anything you definitely know more than me. I'm just checking.

Well again it barley ran, I had to keep my foot on the pedal and even then it would kill in 30 seconds. I adjusted the ditributer and it didnt help much. The only thing stopping it from getting back to that condition is the exhaust manifold which was completely my fault. And wouldnt the tax deduction be as much as what I payed for it?

As much as I would love to keep it I just need the money for a safer and more reliable daily driver, and one with less work. Also I'm going to have to deal with smog cuz the car is post 1975. I think these are my options that I'm set on: 1. Try to sell as is and then try to sell it running 2. Donate it to a local highscool and get a 4000 dollar tax deduction (help the school and my mom out) Or 3. Spend more and more money on it and deal with a 500 dollar daily driver.

Well I bought the car when it was primered and the guy I bought it from was a painter, but still a mistake on my part. It was also running when I bought it but when I took it home I realized that it does in fact run, just takes about 15 minutes to start it. So this was my even bigger mistake: I figured that it would be easiest to get the engine rebuilt, so I began to get the engine ready for removal. Everything went smoothly except breaking the exhaust bolts. As I was taking the car apart and reassembling I noticed a HUGE amount of missing bolts and screws (some hand tightened). The guy obviously used this car as a donor. The one great thing about this car is that it has absolutely no rust in the normal z car areas except a verrryyy small amount of surface rust in other areas, as any rust has been cut out and replaced by the PO. Another up side is the paint and flawless body (though the paint has some small flaws but the body has no scratches or dents whatsoever). Other than that it's nothing special. Right now I'm just seeing what I can do without spending a dollar. The two things stopping the engine from running is the exhaust manifold and a small part of radiator hose. I would love to get a z again when I have the time and money. But right now my mom just wants me to get a well running and safe car, like a volvo. So I just have to get it out of here with as little financial loss as possible.

I think I am going to utilize all of this advice and try to get this car in ok condition spending little to no money. What do you guys think of this idea?: Pull the engine and transmission and sell them. Then sell the roller as a perfect candidate for a v8 swap.

Ok well I was planning on getting it running but should I spend money on other things like a carpet, reupholstrery, etc. ??

Hi I have a currently non running z that I was going to do alot of work on but I just dont have the time. I disconnected everything from the engine as I was going to put in a fresh one but now I decided I need an actual daily driver (I'm 15 and will get my license in a few months). Now I am reconecting everything and I am going to replace the spark plugs, wires, distributer, and maybe the injectors. The car ran before I disconnected every thing, just not very well; the idle was very bad. I bought the car for 3600 (I know it's a rip of, but the fact that the offer came with a fresh metallic blue paintjob really caught me). I have most of the interior parts except the carpet and some other panels. The seats are also worn pretty bad. This is my plan: replace the spark plugs, wires, distributer, maybe the injectors, and it needs a new exhaust manifold because I broke one of the bolts on accident when trying to remove the frozen nuts. Now my question is: what should I spend my money on fixing to increase the resale value and hopefully get my money back? Thanks My plan right now is to replace

Was the n42 running when you pulled it? How will the N42/N47 do for street use with pump gas? what about the F54? You willing to ship? Thanks alot man. Im only 15 and I dont think I can afford a fully rebuilt engine so Im just looking for somthing to replace the piece of crap thats in there. Let me know. Alex

Im in the SF bay area (CA) and im looking to buy a decent running l28 engine for my 1977 280z. Long blocks in good shape may also be considered. Post if you have any sort of L28 engine that runs (or long block). Thanks Alex

anyone? help is realy apprciated im only 15

Hey everyone, I just got this 280z and I'm having some trouble getting it started. It does start and it runs ok it just takes a while. It needs at least 6-7 turns of the ignition to even engage the starter and turn it over. All the lights in the car turn on and I can hear the switch clicking but it doesn't turn over until multiple attempts. The battery is fully charged. Is it the ignition barrel? The starter? I wanted to make sure before I go out to get new parts. Thanks for any help!

Ok then a padded rollbar is fine right? I was also thinking of welding in a couple of bars to the rollbar to protect from side impact.

well if you pad up the roll cage real well wouldnt you think that it would offer an even softer impact than the interior panels? I would assume at least a rollbar is a must because either way you cant realy hit your head on it as long as it is behind the seats, probly better to pad it up anyway though.

So you are saying to pad up the doorpanels with dense foam? or literly inside the door directly behind the door skin? So to integrate the foam into the door panel would I put in behind the cardboard panel or in front of the cardboard panel?thanks