Z-Monster
-
Posts
161 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Z-Monster
-
-
i'm running on a jaguar 4.6L V8 Bosch fuel pump. the problem is that the fuel pump is a N/A engine pump and i have heard that there is a difference in n/a as well as turbo engine pumps.... i hav eahd no problems with it while running 0.4 bar of boost with my fuel press regualtor before... i would have though that this pump should suffice.... aside from the fuel pump being the root problem whatelse shold i look into??
-
hi guys,
i have a problem i experienced last night for the first time at an increased boost. i have been running my rb25det that is generally stock for the past yr and it has been boosting 0.4 bar standard. i increased the boost to 0.7 on monday last week and it has been great all till last night.
The story goes like this. I was chasing a ferrari f360 modena and we were cruising at 180 kmh untill he decided that he didnt want my old 1980 280zx on his tail so he drop a gear as i did and floored it.... i droped from 5th to 4th gear and floored it.... no problems till my rev shot up between 5000 to 6000 rpm. my engine felt like it was misfiring or backfiring. it was either short on fuel or the tuning isnt right somewhere. (i obviously dont knwo where i went wrong). my exhaust temp shot up to 850 degrees celsius. thats where i felt that there must be a problem with my fuel deliver system. i do however have a fuel pressure regulator which i have set to 38 psi and that has worked for the past yr running 0.4 bar boost.
so the question is, why is my engine bogging at high rpm at 0.7 bar boost when it had no problems at 0.4 bar boost before? what else do i have to tune to get my car running reliably and safely without blowing anything?
-
what if the problem is also a vibrating steering wheel while under heavy braking??? there is a slight judder to the steering wheel under heavy braking at the moment as well.
-
what if the problem is also a vibrating steering wheel while under heavy braking??? there is a slight judder to the steering wheel under heavy braking at the moment as well.
-
thanx alot guys
wow, i have great respect for you all whom have given me countless advice and solutions on all my problems...
I am very very particular about the way my car rides... i will get my car on a high speed balancing machine and hope for the best...thanx again
-
hi guys,
i have had my zx for awhile now and its almost perfect witht the exception of this vibration i managed to get rid of before in the past but now.. its just annoying the F out of me. first the specs of my car...
rb25det, wheel spacers all round(new and machined to the tee), 17" rims (straight) with new tires, sylvia rack steering rack customed engine mounts along with long/prop shaft, r200 diff etc.
ok so now my problem... i have had a slight vibration to my steering which effects the whole car between to 50 to 75 mph. beyond 75mph i am smooth as silk aside from the road modulations and some tyre vibration at times.... so now my question is to how should i go about this problem... i have not done on wheel balancing, but i'm affraid its a bent long shaft or a shitty engine mount.
I have left my car off gear and glided at 60mph just to find out if it was my drivetrain. the vibration was still evident so i used that and concluded that the vibration has nothing to do with the drivetrain but my wheels.
pls give me some suggestion to tackle this problem...
thanx guys.
-
hi guys,
i have had my zx for awhile now and its almost perfect witht the exception of this vibration i managed to get rid of before in the past but now.. its just annoying the F out of me. first the specs of my car...
rb25det, wheel spacers all round(new and machined to the tee), 17" rims (straight) with new tires, sylvia rack steering rack customed engine mounts along with long/prop shaft, r200 diff etc.
ok so now my problem... i have had a slight vibration to my steering which effects the whole car between to 50 to 75 mph. beyond 75mph i am smooth as silk aside from the road modulations and some tyre vibration at times.... so now my question is to how should i go about this problem... i have not done on wheel balancing, but i'm affraid its a bent long shaft or a shitty engine mount.
I have left my car off gear and glided at 60mph just to find out if it was my drivetrain. the vibration was still evident so i used that and concluded that the vibration has nothing to do with the drivetrain but my wheels.
pls give me some suggestion to tackle this problem...
thanx guys.
-
hi there,
no one makes them where i come from. (malaysia) on top of that, i'm no wiring expert... what i did was have a wire man connect all related wires to make my car run as stock as possible.. i know he seperated all the steering column indicators ie. single, windshield wipers lights etc... and then took off all abs and traction control sensor wirings... spliced all engine realted sensor wiring to make the meter cluster work. alot of the r33 wiring was actually stripped and rendered useless. the 280zx is very basic and most of its steering cluster wiring was maintained... i would advice you to change the meter cluster to the r33 one as well so you wont have any headaches in recalibration. thats what i eventually did anyway.
as for the 3 meters you have that are origianl clock, oil press and temp as well as your volt meters... that can still be used but how accurate i dont know... i replace all of mine to aftermarket SARD exhaust temp, oil press and boost. i'm sorry i dont have the detail knowledge to walk you though this noodle meal of yours.. HIHIHI all the best...
-
hi Rizal,
I'm Kevin from malaysia and i have a 280zx with a rb25det... you dont need a R32 gtr rear when a cefiro/s13 rear is the same... no difference and the diff they are suing is the same short nose r200 vlsd. yes it will fit butt there will be portions of the undercarriage that needs to be cut and rewelded. not too big a job but need a skilled and knowledgable mech to do this. most importantly the mounting points have to be solid if not you will be messing a perfectly adequate rear axel that could have taken the power of a supped rb26dett!!!!!!!!
kevin kong
-
Z-Monster...
I'm very interested to know more about how you've set up your steering package. Currently the power steering in the 280zx is very soggy and I dislike it. My other car RB25DE R33 Skyline has fantastic steering and I'm hoping to replicate that in the 280zx although I must admit I know next to nothing about the steer system in either vehicle.
Also what did you set up for your suspension? Is it for track or road use? An how does it perform. It seems to me that the factory suspension (26 years old!) seems to magnify that bumps but still rolls over on the corners!
ok here is what i did. took a complete front crossmember of a cefiro/s13 same including the power steering unit itself. then took my 280zx crossmember and grafted the cefiro's powersteering mounting points onto my 280zx's. that was the end of mounting the rack on. then, the tie rods at both end of the steering rack had to be shortened so i had then cut and rethreaded. thats about it... re plumbed the lines and shrank my oil sump alittle more to clead the new power steering unit that was sitting right on the crossmember. its very good... i have hear of ppl using subaru power steering units so maybe thats the way to go if it bolts on without having to shorten the tie rods... PM me if yall have other questions. i have no free play on my steering.. no oil leaks... nice.
-
how do you tell if they are clutch type??? what are teh tell tail signs?? most have VLSD stickers on them but some dont and are still lsd's
-
the diffs cost usd100...
-
Hey Guys... All The Technical Talk Is Very Debative. Anyways I Just Machines My Driveshaft From S13 Sylvia. Shortened Where The Barings Were. Not A Chop And Weld Thing... Then I Remachined The Gears As Well... Cost A Bomb.. Anyways Then My Companion Shaft Connected To My Wheel Hub No Problems With The 4 Hole Bolt Pattern... I'm Having Trouble With The Names Of These Items Stated As I Dont Practice Proper Part Name Calling Here... Hahahah.. Anyways.. I Then Took The Input Shafts (the Ones That Actually Goes Into The Diff) Chopped Them Up And Machined My Own 8 Bolt Connector. My Cv Joint/drive Shafts Are Actually A Two Piece Assembly. One Small Stubby Piece That Goes Into The Diff And The Actual Shaft That Reaches The Wheel Hub. With The 4 Hole End Connection To The Stock Wheel Hub Part. So There...
Look At The Pictures Of My Own Cars Diff. The Shot Of It Under My Car.Ok Now For The Price Of Things... I Have Found Out That My Max Weight Shipment Is Only 20kg.. The Diff Being 46 Kg I Will Have To Split It Open... Plus, To Ship 20kg To The States... Oakland Ca It Will Cost A Whopping Usd200. It Will Take 4-5 Days To Arrive On Top Of That.... Scarry.... Anyone Else Has Any Other Options In Shipping Or Anyone Here In Hybridz Owns A Shipping Company??? Hhihihi
Ok Guys... If Yall Are Still Interested In The Diff Then Holla But I Think That Ends Our Quest For This Shipment.
-
mull... awsome projet undertaking man... i wish i was as brave as you in stripping the entire car like that and sandblasting.. i'm affraind to find out the reality of my own cars body... great documantation and keep us posted with your progress... i wanted to do the same but work and time came in the way. i use my car daily and thats my only car so couldnt spedn too much time restoring and taking pictures.
-
I Am Very Very Sure It Will Not Link Up To The Half Shafts
-
what model z do you have??? if its a 280zx 2+2 then it bolts on except for the input shafts.. as you can see i had to machine the input shafts so that it would match my cv joints... thats why i took a picture of the diff under my car.. after installation... you will have to take the cv joints which comes with the diff and chop it off wherever you need the connection to be made to bolt up with your driveshaft/cv. if you have a 240-280z then you will need a diff cover which has the horizontal mounting screws to bolt onto your mustach bar..... i will replace or get you a diff that fits.. dont worry just tell me or take a pic of your current diff and i will get you the right thing. but the shipping cost is yet to be confirmed... so all of this might be for nothing anyway...
sad but true. -
here is a hyper link to my gallery... go past the car pictures and th diffs are next.
http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=14097
-
can yall not view the pix??? if not then go to my gallery i have uploaded all the pix there.
-
this is the new phase now in malaysia with old cars being saved from the scrap yard.
a nissan solid excel into this old timer to handle some serious power...
cut and past as long as everything fits was the theam here.
it took this guy 2 yrs to get everything together.
S13 dash integrated into the ori datsun 120y's
-
for those who wanted to see the pictures. here are some of them.. i will upload the rest to my album latter...
VLSD R200 LONG NOSE DIFF WITH CV JOINTS.
UNDERNETH WHAT WE NORMALLY SEE UNDER THE CAR.
FINNED REAR COVER. NOTICE THE VERTICAL BOLT PATTERN.
THE SEA OF DIFFS.. AND NOTICE THE R200 ON THE FLOOR. IT HAS A SLIP CUT SENSOR ON ITS NOSE...
THE INSIDES OF THE R200 LONG NOSE.. THIS ONE AD A 3.9 FINAL DRIVE.. I DID THE MATH... TRUST ME...
MORE R200 LONG NOSE LYING IN THERE WITH A WHOLE LOT OF R200 SHORTY'S
HERE IS MY R200 LONG NOSE IN MY 280ZX WITH ITS MACHINES INPUT SHAFTS STILL BLINGING...
R32GTR ANYBODY???
R32GTST AND CHECK OUT THE Z31 AS WELL AS THE Z32 IN THE BACKGROUND... BUT NO HGS130 OR S30'S HERE!!! BUMMER!!
1JZ GTE??? OR 7M GTE EITHER OR...
-
dont worry about the search thingie.. i know exectly how you feel as i have searched for longer then 3 hours and stilll come up short of my answer...
anyways if i were you i would stick to a l28et... thay are easier to play with, cheaper, more reliable from past experiences... i could be wrong...i know the vg has electrical problems/glitches if not done right....plus the power potential of the l28et is more then you would need...300 ponies no problems...if you were going with a vg you must as well do a v8 conversion... just my two cent.. if youare set on the vg conversion then all the best and do it once do it right... dont cheap out on anything especially on new wires...
there will be lots of them.... -
yes my friend this si a short nose r200 diff.. i have the same diff.. and i have another that i took and transfered the internals of to a long nose r200 housing to which i had to reuse my final drive gear ring from the long nose r200 diff... so all gears in from this diff shown in the auction transfeerd except the final drive gear ring...
beautiful lsd grip and is smooth as hell if gears are in good shape. -
ok pictures on the way.. pls give me till this weekend.. i iwll open the sucker up.
-
damn you are demanding!!!
just for you rudy poo.. i iwll try and see if i can.. no promisses though.. time is short this weekend looks like its getting shorter.. no worries.. i will try my best.. last thing i want is for everyone who does order end p not being able to use their diffs.. hihihihhihih you are right.. i better do this once and do it right for yall... no regrets right.
I am very very particular about the way my car rides... i will get my car on a high speed balancing machine and hope for the best...
boosted and problems already.
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted