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About SU'dCrazy280

  • Birthday 06/24/1980

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  1. Hello there! Sorry I haven't been on in awhile. I have a '76 280Z, I'm in the process of swapping an RB20DET, I would definitely consider joining your club. I might wait until I get the damn thing running though!

  2. Hello, I also am in Montana and involved in ROCKY Z's car club... we have about 15 cars and are located in the Missoula area. Always looking for more members and of course, willing to help with Z stuff.


  3. Towed mine 9.5 hrs back home from seattle back to missoula, mt with my dad's truck. Paid only $100 for the car!! Sadly the diesel costed more than the car! Then I put anothe 3800 into the car, so four or five grand isn't too bad if you can get a nice one!
  4. Well, thanks for the advice guys! Now all I have to do is figure out a manual tranny! In the JTR manual it looks like the "world class" camaro transmissions are the best for cheap? Are they difficult to come by? I've heard there is a pretty good 4 speed out there too...
  5. Well thanks for the input. Maybe I will go with a manual tranny now that I know I can't use the one it has. This project will probably mostly happen this summer and I used to work at an engine and machine shop so I can use the tools and the boaring machine anytime. The owner will know exactly what to do since he has probably built upwards of 1000 of them. If anyone needs a strong L28 bored .040 over with flat top pistons, a racing cam, then I'll probably be selling it this summer too. If anyone else has anymore input then I'll be happy to hear it, as far as transimissions, clutches, etc.
  6. My Z is a 76 280 and I just bought a 1979 GMC Sierra Grande from a friend for $300!! The truck is a hunk of *&^%, but the part I love is under the hood. The 6.6 liter 400. I am putting it in my Z, and I think I'll have to put in a different tranny, and do a small rebuild. The engine runs great, and I am planning on putting a big cam in, and maybe do some headwork. The compression looks good, and I don't want to have to mess with the bottom end if I don't have to. The engine has a four barrell carb (probably rochester), and the HEI distributor. The tranny is an automatic, and is most likely a TH400 because the 700R4 didn't come out until later. Would I have to switch the tranny?? I don't want to go automatic, but if the tranny is good I might do it temporarily. Is the tranny itself geared to low to be fast? Or is it the truck's rear end? B/c the truck is not very quick. I am pretty new to domestic engines so bear with me. I can't tell if the mounts are 2 or 4 bolts, I could probably go figure it out but it's cold outside!!! I want to use the JTR kit if I can. Oh, and I'll have to take the giant transfer case off too. Any input or advice would be great because there is not much about 400's on the search function!! Thanks
  7. I know I just have been too lazy to take it out, I'll get to it soon though.
  8. I found the problem, I took the carb off today to fix a little gas leak coming through a gasket and the little rubber plug that I put on the little vacuum tube toward the bottom of the carb was gone, so I fixed that and now it runs like a freakin champ in the cold!!! The butterfly is closed now when the engine is cold too. Thanks dude
  9. Ok, here is my possible plan, don't know if it will work or if it is even possible, but I am having probs keeping my engine running at first when it is really cold out. I am currently living in Helena, MT and it is already well below freezing in the mornings. I have the Holley 390cfm with electric choke, and w/ an arizonazcar intake. The car is a 76 280Z, rebuilt engine, flat tops, cam, a holley red FP, and I still have the injection wiring harness balled up under the dash. (i know, a little ghetto) but the car fires right away when it is cold, but I have to have my foot on the pedal revving and revving to keep it running. is there some way that I could wire up a cold start injector type of deal so I could just go start my car in the winter and it would keep running, the choke just isn't doing the job. Is there some type of switch I could use? If possible I would just drill a hole in the manifold to put some sort of cold start injector in place. It would be nice to be able to just flip a switch and go let 'r run!! thanks, any input helps
  10. I'll pay shipping w/ paypal or anything else!! How much to ship to MT (montana)
  11. my buddy had the same problem when putting a KA in his 510. we just cut the crossmember toward the ends and welded it in the other way, it only took us like an hour, and with the middle of the crossmember facing the other way, it easily clears the pan, it should work too if it is similar to the 510's crossmember.
  12. whoa, not the plug wires, the plugs themselves. because then all of the compression can escape out the plug hole.
  13. I used to have the same problem. Could be that a rocker arm or two are a bit off, take a feeler guage and I think the intake is .008, and the exhaust is .010, I'm not for sure on these numbers though, I'll have to look it up. Maybe its .009 and .011, I can't remember. Something like that. But if the feeler guage slides in and out of the space between the cam and the rocker with ease, then loosen the lock nut and adjust it. It takes some practice, but you might as well check them all. Oh, and make sure that the cam lobe is not facing directly down when checking each valve.
  14. sounds like too slow of a clack clack to be valve noise, I had some bad valve noise and it wasn't as loud, and way faster clicks. Also, you didn't drop anything small into the intakes while changing a filter or anything did you? A mechanic accidentally dropped a small nut into the carb of our boat engine once, and got sucked right on top of the number 3 piston, and it sounded a whole lot like that for a while, until it chipped one of the valves apart and ruined a piston, after that it was more of a boom boom!! If you do think you dropped a small piece of something, do not turn over the engine anymore, and immediately take off the head. Good luck!!
  15. Ok, so I can't drive my 76 Z without the windows open because the raw gas fumes are so bad. I don't have an exhaust fume problem, which is good, but I think that these fumes are coming straight from the engine bay. Well, I run the 390cfm Holley w/ the arizonazcar manifold and a holley red fuel pump. I love the power increase, but the fumes are getting so bad that I am starting to get headaches, and it is more of a health issue than anything. I don't know if it has anything to do with how high my idle is, I have to idle at about 1600 rpm's because of my cam. Another thing may be the hole in my firewall I am using for my new temp sensor. Please help with any advice you have, I love driving my Z, but the fumes are so bad that it is more unpleasant now. Oh, and I don't have any fuel leaks anywhere either. Thanks Mark T.
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