Greg SmileZ
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Posts posted by Greg SmileZ
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"nice and close" is not the way to go....I don't recall exactly what the rule of thumb is, but the fan should be about 1/2 inside the shroud, and 1/2 outside the shroud. Do some searching on what is the correct position. I fabricated my own shroud out of aluminum. See below.
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A buddy of mine just had his 240Z body work done, and painted at All Z. Great Work! I would not hesitate using them. They know Z's, and will do a good job for you.
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I've been using the Abbott converter with my T56 for about 6 years. It's worked just fine. I use the stock speedo....just depends on which way you want to go!
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Has anyone purchased a starter from DB Electric? They advertise AC Delco / GM type starters like # 7 in the JTR manual (page 3-5) Heavy duty gear reduction starter used on the 1993-1997 V8 Camaros and 1994-1996 LT1 350 Caprice, for a 153 tooth flywheel/flexplate.
They are China knock-offs. They sell them for about $60 with the real deal costing more than $200.
Just wonder if anyone has purchased one and had any experience with them. Generally I feel if the price is too good, there must be something wrong.
PS - I'm starting my second swap of a 350 into a 1978 Z....
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Get and read the JTR manual, get a shop manual and start studying, then read JTR again and again and make the decisions for yourself...It's all there. If you are going to be successful in swapping an engine, you will need to do research and understand what and why you are doing all aspects of the swap.
Good luck....
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Different approach. Mechanical fan, pop rivets instead of welded. Ron Davis aluminum radiator. Hope this help you decide what way you want to go.
Greg
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I have a '77 280Z with a 350. In my manual it says (and I believe what I purchased and used from JTR in 1999) is 5/16" setback plates, 2 1/2 and 1 1/4 spacers for motor mount and 1/2 x member spacers. So....1 1/4 instead of your 1 1/2. 1 1/4 worked fine, don't know why 1 1/2 would not work either....Greg
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FYI - I purchased my JTR manual in 1999 and it is also a 7th edition. I think the more important item is the printing month and year that is on the inside title page. Mine is dated June 1998. I suspect that those who are buying their manual now have a much more recent date. Just my 2 cents.....
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Just me, it will be the best $40.00 you will ever spend. I've read it cover to cover at least 4 or 5 times, and then sections over and over. You will not be sorry you purchased it....
Do yourself a favor and purchase it.
Speaking from experience......
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My 350 into my '77 280Z was my first swap (I'm 50ish, but working on cars all my life). I agree with everything above, except I did not need a welder. For the couple things I needed welded, I had a friend with a welder do them for me. I could not justify the cost of the welder. The lift, JTR book, basic tools, a plan, budget and a realistic time table are all very important.
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That's what I did too. By far the cleanest way to go, and I think the easiest!
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Is the Chevy V8 forum a catch all for every question or comment no matter if it is Chevy related or not? I know that it gets the most views and therefore the most responses, but....Seems I've seen the Chevy V8 forum degrade over the last several years.....transmission comments, and everything else.
Sorry for the negative comments but at one time it seems like members cared where they posted their questions and comments.
Thanks....
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Try this link to a manual for your 1411....
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html#contents
Good luck,
Greg
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I used a 7/8" with my T-56. I've purchased a 3/4" and think (based on my calculations) that it will be the right diameter and give me the proper pedal feel and movement....just my 2 cents.
Welcome....
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Do you have an answer to the question about having the motor/wipers stop at the bottom of the windshield?
Thanks,
Greg
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I've read many different websites describing the "best" location for Temp sensor for an electric fan. Some say intake manifold, some say inlet side of the radiator, and others say the outlet of the radiator. Seems to me on the intake manifold the water would never get cool enough to have the fan switch off (assuming a switch that turns on at 195 and off at 180.
Comments, suggestions or experience
Thanks!
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I run a racing AL radiator' date=' and I actually have a problem keepn it warm on the highway when it's cold outside. especially if it's raining. say good bye heater till you get to a stoplight and warm it up a lil. Just FYI... if it ain't broke don't fix it.
if you feel the necessity for more cooling go with a 4 core from MSA
If you feel the need to go AL though, PM I'll give you the part number of the radiator i used. from Don Francis racing.
-Ed[/quote']
Do you mean Ron Davis Racing???
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With my T-56 (in a '77 Z) I used a 7/8" but plan to go to a 13/16". The 7/8" is a pretty stiff (too stiff for my liking) clutch pedal. I think the 1 1/8" will be way too stiff (to the point of putting alot of excess strain on the firewill where the master cylinder mounts)....just my 2 cents.
Greg
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Link does not seem to work...here is a different link to the T-56 service manual.
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/pdf/LD56-0610-0199.pdf
Greg
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I just wonder why some people pay so much for Z stuff on eBay?
There is a Foot Rest Pedal Pad listed, and the bidding is up to $20.50.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7940980331&category=6763
You can buy a complete set (all 4) of new pedal pads at a dealer (Courtesy Nissan here in Dallas, and they list them on their website) for about $15.00!
Dealers still can get alot of parts for the Z. I guess the message here, is check with your dealer before you buy parts on eBay for way too much!
.....Greg SmileZ
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I have spoken to both brothers at one time or another over the past several years. All I can say is that if either one has a personality problem (I assume you are referring to Mike), that I wish everyone had that personality problem. Both have been more than helpful, bending over backwards to help me with my questions. I wish all businesses had the personality problem that MikeJTR is talking about!!! Mike even went to the extent of sending me a book that we were discussing for FREE!
Long live JTR….send them your business!
Greg
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Spotfitz,
I've also been looking at the Too Intense headlights, along with Motorsports....I'm heading to CA in a couple weeks, and plan to visit both Too Intense, and Motorsports to look at their products. I'll let you know what I see/find out....
Greg
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I've searched and don't see any discussion here of the various headlights that will work with Zs....I have a 1977 280Z.
I've converted my headlight wiring harness to use a relay, but now I want to upgrade the headlights.
Has anyone purchased any of the headlights or headlight kits from:
Anyone on eBay?
Too Intense Restoration?
H4 Lights?
Motorsport Auto (zcarparts.com)
Victoria British?
Comments about any of them, good, bad, expensive, cheap, etc?
Thanks - Greg
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Pyro,
What radiator are you using?
Thanks,
Greg
Pedal Pivot Bolt for '77 280
in Parts Wanted
Posted · Edited by Greg SmileZ
Found one on Craig's list.....I need a replacement bolt that the brake and clutch pedals pivot on in the pedal assembly of my 1977 280z. I believe the bolt from either an auto or stick pedal assembly will work.
Thanks - Greg