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Greg SmileZ

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About Greg SmileZ

  • Birthday 03/21/1952

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  • Location
    Southlake, TX

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  1. Found one on Craig's list.....I need a replacement bolt that the brake and clutch pedals pivot on in the pedal assembly of my 1977 280z. I believe the bolt from either an auto or stick pedal assembly will work. Thanks - Greg
  2. "nice and close" is not the way to go....I don't recall exactly what the rule of thumb is, but the fan should be about 1/2 inside the shroud, and 1/2 outside the shroud. Do some searching on what is the correct position. I fabricated my own shroud out of aluminum. See below. http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/500/DSC01337.JPG
  3. A buddy of mine just had his 240Z body work done, and painted at All Z. Great Work! I would not hesitate using them. They know Z's, and will do a good job for you.
  4. I've been using the Abbott converter with my T56 for about 6 years. It's worked just fine. I use the stock speedo....just depends on which way you want to go!
  5. Has anyone purchased a starter from DB Electric? They advertise AC Delco / GM type starters like # 7 in the JTR manual (page 3-5) Heavy duty gear reduction starter used on the 1993-1997 V8 Camaros and 1994-1996 LT1 350 Caprice, for a 153 tooth flywheel/flexplate. They are China knock-offs. They sell them for about $60 with the real deal costing more than $200. Just wonder if anyone has purchased one and had any experience with them. Generally I feel if the price is too good, there must be something wrong. PS - I'm starting my second swap of a 350 into a 1978 Z....
  6. Get and read the JTR manual, get a shop manual and start studying, then read JTR again and again and make the decisions for yourself...It's all there. If you are going to be successful in swapping an engine, you will need to do research and understand what and why you are doing all aspects of the swap. Good luck....
  7. Different approach. Mechanical fan, pop rivets instead of welded. Ron Davis aluminum radiator. Hope this help you decide what way you want to go. Greg
  8. I have a '77 280Z with a 350. In my manual it says (and I believe what I purchased and used from JTR in 1999) is 5/16" setback plates, 2 1/2 and 1 1/4 spacers for motor mount and 1/2 x member spacers. So....1 1/4 instead of your 1 1/2. 1 1/4 worked fine, don't know why 1 1/2 would not work either....Greg
  9. FYI - I purchased my JTR manual in 1999 and it is also a 7th edition. I think the more important item is the printing month and year that is on the inside title page. Mine is dated June 1998. I suspect that those who are buying their manual now have a much more recent date. Just my 2 cents.....
  10. Just me, it will be the best $40.00 you will ever spend. I've read it cover to cover at least 4 or 5 times, and then sections over and over. You will not be sorry you purchased it.... Do yourself a favor and purchase it. Speaking from experience......
  11. My 350 into my '77 280Z was my first swap (I'm 50ish, but working on cars all my life). I agree with everything above, except I did not need a welder. For the couple things I needed welded, I had a friend with a welder do them for me. I could not justify the cost of the welder. The lift, JTR book, basic tools, a plan, budget and a realistic time table are all very important.
  12. That's what I did too. By far the cleanest way to go, and I think the easiest!
  13. Is the Chevy V8 forum a catch all for every question or comment no matter if it is Chevy related or not? I know that it gets the most views and therefore the most responses, but....Seems I've seen the Chevy V8 forum degrade over the last several years.....transmission comments, and everything else. Sorry for the negative comments but at one time it seems like members cared where they posted their questions and comments. Thanks....
  14. Try this link to a manual for your 1411.... http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html#contents Good luck, Greg
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