Bishopsrock
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Posts posted by Bishopsrock
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I mounted a GTR fuel pump in a 260z tank.
Here is the info about it:-
I have little experience with the RB20 so all I can say is that this may be of some help.
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Thanks to all who are contributing to this thread - i am amazed that after all these years we have finally got a thread on this subject where progress is being made by someone who understands both electronics and motors.
My question relates to the tach that many of us will have and that is the plain old induction tach as fitted to the 240Z.
I am like the rest of us in that I really want to retain the stock gauges. At the moment I am using a RB26DETT tacho mounted in a 240z tacho pod but this has left me without my turn signal lights which are mounted within the face of the stock gauge.
What I actually want to do is run the stock gauge.
I found this great item but need something more directly related to the 240z tacho as I don't understand many of the terms http://www.dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/
Does anyone know of any other way to run a 240z induction tach with an RB26DETT motor setup? or could anyone spell the stuff in the above link out for me as in exactly how I would connect this to a 240z tacho and an RB26DETT?
With thanks in anticipation.
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Shocks are adjusted based on spring rate. What springs are on your car and what rate are they?
Hi John,
My pride & joy is a stock 73 model US car that I imported from California and that was manufactured during Nov 72.
Thanks
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Out of personal interest - is there any consensus as to what the optimum settings for Tokiko Illuminas should be for an RB26 240z - front and rear???
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Following discussion of the lack of availability of this item in some previous threads that I have read, I thought that someone may find this of interest/need:-
The factory boost controller is also shown in the pic and may come with it?
I'm sure these guys would post it overseas if you were to ask them.
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I have a wiring diagram for a 280z that I have attached - I hope it works as this is my first attachment under the new system.
The tacho wire (LW) seems to go through a resistor to a wire (L) which links to both the coil and the transistor ignition unit and which also seems to carry on to connect to pin B1 of the ECU.
Regards
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Pete, What year tach? The '78 is a different beast. I haven't had much luck with those without an adapter.
Hello RTZ,
Please can you explain how the 78 280z tacho is different to other years?
Regards
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did a search but didnt turn up much unfortunately. one person saying they hadnt heard of a 280zx tacho working with an rb20det, another person saying it should run as-is. the 10k resistor method i found on r31.com (australian skyline site) and that worked fine for the aftermarket tacho that i was previously using.
So still no news on the 280z Tacho with an RB engine???
Feel free - it doesn't have to be an RB20 - any info on this topic would be very helpful.
There are lots of posts about using a stock tacho but none, in my view, that deal with the subject fully.
If someone has the info then I don't mind writing it up for the community?
Oh yes and for you sarcastic lot (you know who you are) - p-lease, I have read all posts on this topic that the search engine throws up.
Anyone with anything constructive?
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Hi,
This post is amazing and I know that a number of people on the RB forum will be very interested to see this.
I am presently trying to adapt a a 280z tacho to work on a Nissan Rb26DETT engine fitted to my 240z. From your great write-up it seems that this would be a Kickback controlled tacho.
The RB engine uses a Coil on Plug (COP) ignition system. I am using an Apexi Power Controller ECU and this has an output for the tacho signal but will not drive the tacho directly.
Have you any advice as to how I might get this to work?
Thanks in anticipation
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Just stumbled across this post and it made my day - ha ha ha ha
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Thanks Pete, I have created a street sleeper and have standard springs at present with Illumina adjustables.
The idea of running a sway bar that locates on the diff is interesting and I will research this if I can't get the one that I have to fit round the new shafts.
I just collected the shortened links today so I should be able to give them a try and have some news of my success or failure by next week.
This is all trial and error though - we took an inch out of each link but I'm worried that its going to limit the suspension travel.
Not long before I find out now!
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Thanks for all the responses and reassurance so far.
I am worried about roll with power on round corners though. I drove the car both with and without the rear bar. It did seem to make a difference to squatting - I don't know why but the car seemed to go down to a lesser degree with the bar on. It also made a noticeable difference to roll on cornering.
It might be personal preference but I think the bar helps with handling.
Thanks for the advice - I will post the results of shortening the link soon.
Cheers
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Yes thanks for that DeleriousZ, but I need the bar to help control the car.
I have approx 400bhp and on full boost the back end will be hit the floor and the nose will hit the sky - the car will then go all over the shop as the weight shifts around. Also, I don't fancy putting it on boost on a bend with no rear swaybar in place! So I really do feel that I need the bar in position.
I do wish that Ross had made this issue clear on his website and posted a fix for it.
I am going to persevere and try different lengths of links first - hey I might just get lucky.
Anyway thanks for chipping in.
Cheers
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I have a November 72 (73 year model) 240z. I have installed an RB26DETT Skyline twin turbo engine and have upgraded my rear end.
I have installed an R200 LSD, 260z Stub axles and 300ZX Single Turbo CV drive shafts using the Modern Motorsports companion flange adapters shown below.
Once fitted my rear sway bar is firmly in contact with the CV boot as shown below on both sides of the car.
I have removed the links and am having them shortened by 1 inch - we are just cutting an inch out of the middle and welding them back together. Its trial & error and so I don't know if it will work or create other problems though?
Has anyone else had this problem and if you have how did you solve it???
Cheers
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I plugged all of the hose holes in the main fuel tank leading to the vapour tank. Then I fitted a UK fuel tank filler pipe breather - all it does is route a single feed from the filler neck through the wheel well out to ground. If I overfill it now then excess fuel will start to dribble out at my feet. No problems so far with this setup.
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Been busy so not visited HybridZ in ages - i'm very impressed -your car is looking great!
Tyres are on my 'to do more with' list - what spec did you go for in the pics???
Also, I think that Stoney should leave the stuff in your thread where it is because this thread is the only start to finish, complete documented step by step that I have been able to find on this site - if he chops it then he makes it incomplete and this is unwarranted after you have put so much effort into documenting it all.
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Hi Chris,
They did this ages ago (and took at least 100 photos) - I can't properly remember who I acknowledged now though. Sorry, I don't think that I mentioned you specifically but I did mention all of the HybridZ community and stressed that this was where I got my inspiration, technical knowledge and advice. At the time, I was thinking about stating the sources of info that someone reading the mag and considering the conversion would find helpful but I do wish I had included you specifically now though!
Anyway, what they actually print is another thing entirely - I just hope its not embarrassing!
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I haven't managed to get any proper pics of my car up here yet - just pics of the odd part here or there as I needed help and advice.
Japenese Performance magazine http://www.japaneseperformancemagazine.co.uk/ was tracking my conversion through their close contact with Rod Bell at RB Motorsport here in the UK. As soon as Rod told them it was finished, they took a look at it and then called me up to arrange a photo shoot etc.
I know my car isn't the same as most on this forum as I have built a street sleeper, which until you lift the hood, doesn't look anything special. But, there is no hiding the natural beauty and classic lines of a 240z.
Anyway, if anyone is interested, it is appearing in the February edition of Japanese Performance as stated below:-
Next Month in Japanese Performance
HERE COME THE Z-CARS
Datsun 240Z GT-R goes Q-car with twin-turbo power, 600bhp Evo III coupe, SEMA Show full report, Boost controller test and all the usual Japanese Performance favourites
Why not subscribe today?FEBRUARY 2009 ISSUE ON SALE 13TH JANUARY 2009
I Don't know whether this will be a one page or a two page etc - so don't hold me to anything, but I did make sure that I gave HybridZ a proper acknowledgement and I hope they print it - lets see??
Hey, who knows, someone who reads it might just think that its a good idea and start one themselves!
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Ray, are you installing an RB25 or an RB26?
If you pm me you email address then I will forward you the little that I have found and used to help me. Presumably you have downloaded the engine manual - about 23 megs worth?
Also, if you would like me to post a pic of my wiring then let me know and I will try to dig one out from my hard drive put it up here?
Good luck
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Hi Ray, thanks for contributing that. I currently have the R33 tacho mounted in my S30 pod and it works fine but this is only a temporary measure for me. My goal is a total stealth street sleeper and so I need to go back to the standard S30 gauges.
I am going to give your idea a try so have you any idea what models & years this was fitted too?
Thanks
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Cheers for sorting this out Stealth Z. I found the Toyota crossover part number for the one that was stated originally on Chris's brilliant thread - I then ordered it but found it was too thin. I thought the slimmer sender must be one that fitted an RB25 and not my RB26. I then became too busy to follow it up but have wanted to. I will give your suggestion a try asap.
Thanks
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Just dropped by to catch up on your swap - I have been mad busy with work and have absolutely no time for my car at the moment - its distressing!!!
Glad to see that you are still 100% focused though and making good progress.
You sound like you are nearly there so good luck and watch out for the dreaded detonation!
Oh yes - and I havn't got my temp sender sorted either. I am monitoring the temp using the Apexi Power FC hand controller but it would be nice to have my stock gauge working.
Cheers
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Count me in for a set please and remember I was first to order!!!
Sorry Jerry but at the moment you only 'think' that you want a set
Shipping to the UK.
Cheers
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Hi Luke,
Your car looks great and i am particularly impressed by your intercooler pipework - work of art mate.
Looking at your pics, it seems that you might be using the stock radiator?
If you are, then I would consider replacing it with a modern dual pass one. A guy that I know has fried his RB26 after only 2 weeks on the road - apparently due to the stock radiator being unable to disperse the heat quick enough whilst on boost.
I bet that your car will be amazing to drive though - does an RB30 qualify you to join NASA?
Cheers
Using the Stock Tachometer in 260z-280z (3 wire tach) with RB25 (or Z32 ecu)
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Mark, thank you so much for the straight forward and understandable explanation. Its great to find out that we can use the stock 240z tacho as easily as this. Yes, I did wire my car myself and I added a few bits into Chris Rummells wiring thread as I did it. I can see this tacho thread being very popular in the future though as all of this has been missing from the forum until now.
Just a couple of questions that im curious about and that you might be able to shed some light on:-
1 - The 240z uses a single coil whereas the GTR uses 6 coil packs. Is the rev counter still likely to be accurate with the GTR coilpacks?
2 - I have just discovered an old 260z tacho (amongst my hoard of parts) like the one featured in your first explanation at the start of this thread. Is using this likely to result in more accurate readings?
Cheers