zercs280zx

Thank you.... My friend runs a service station and knows chevys and fords, but he needs to be 1000% sure that when I turn that oil pump 180 degrees in theory the rotor should line up with cylinder 1 on the compression stroke.... I'm sorry to ask what seems like such a simple question I am trying to compensate for not only an engine builder.... but one that specialized in datsuns back in the day... I'm sure he made a very simple mistake for such an experienced machinst.... I need to solidify that the ignition rotor will line up with the location of the number one cylinder according to what the factory manual states in it's picture.... because this idiot installed the oil pump backwards... please... I'm sorry to ask again but is what you are saying is pull the four bolts off, pull out the oil pump, clock it 180 degrees and push it back in... and then my ignition rotor should line up with the number one slot on my dizzy cap per the factory manual... and please excuse me for asking what seems to be such a basic/retarded question but are you saying you can put a screwdriver down the dizzy hole and phsically turn the oil pump gear or do you have to physically remove the 4 oil pump pump bolts, pull it from the block, and rotate it 180 degrees. Either answeer is fine but I just need to know.

How do you correct this, can I pull the shaft out and rotate the oil pump? Does the oil pump have to be removed?

Is it possible that my oil pump was installed backwards? How do I make the adjustment so my number one spark plug lines up in the correct position? I'm using a turbo oil pump if that makes a difference. zercs

Matt, I'm just getting back to my project.... I tried to adjust the pots by turning them counter clockwise. I did not hear a pop like the msns extra write up mentioned. I made 20+ ccw turns without a click. Do you know how many ccw turns I should make?

I was under the assumption that I could manually advance or retard the spark by adjsuting the dizzy while using the crane box. Anyone using a crane or MSD box with megasuirt? Did you have to lock the dizzy?

Thanks for the visual. I'm still confused though... you are saying that you twist the red and green wires from the dizzy and connect that to the shielded Ignition in? I thought one was the trigger and one was grounded.

Thanks. I'm running fuel only with the Crane box controlling spark. I don't need to lock the dizzy in this case (MS is not controlling spark), I can advance and retard spark with the dizzy correct? I'm pretty sure about this, I just need to confirm this so I'm all set to go,.

Thanks for the quick reply... there is only one shielded wire to the MS ecu (IGNITION IN). I'm pretty sure this is where the green wire goes. How about the red? Is there a specific wire that this connects to?

So can I confirm that the 81 NA dizzy is a VR sensing and the sensor is internal (there are no external sensors like a CAS dizzy)? Now I'm left with a green and red wire from the dizzzy. I need to confirm where these go. I had the green wire going to IGNITION IN and was getting an RPM signal. It looks like the red wire was used for BATTERY when it was hooked up to the E12-80 Ignition module. What should I wire the red lead to? I read that the VR dizzy is magnetic and does not require a power source so I'm a bit confused. I want to make sure I have everything answered so I can wire it correctly and get the car runing.

I know they are different signals, optical versus VR. I really need to know how to wire the ms1 v 3.0 board to accept the VR signal and how the NA dizzy works without a CAS. I still need answers to this reply below. Matt from DIY if you could comment I'd appreciate it.

Matt, I am just getting back to my project. I didn't make the jumper from TACHSELECT to VRIN because TACHSELECT is already jumped to OPTOIN by the factory - you guys at DIY Autotune. I assume the picture from MS1Extra.com was taken on an unassembled board. Should I disconnect OPTOIN and jump TACHSELECT directly to VRIN? I'm running an '81 na dizzy and a MS1 v 3.0 board. Also, I'm a bit confused as how a VR dizzy works. Cars today require a crank and cam angle sensor but I heard that this VR dizzy is magnetic and internal. Does it read rpm from the oil pump shaft? Thanks for your help and sorry for all the questions there is not much on the na dizzys and MS since most folks go turbo with the CAS sensor. One more question... I do not need the E12-80 ignition module to send the signal to the MS ecu, it can come directly from the dizzy, correct? I am running MSNS fuel only with a Crane Ignition box to control spark (already jumped and set to 50% fixed duty cycle).

It also cals for having the pots turned counter clockwise. What are the pots and where are they located on the ecu?

I made the jumpers now I need to know how to wire the dizzy ('81 280zx NA). I had the green wire going to igintion in to the MS ecu and the red to 12v switched. Now I've read that both wires are used as the VR sensor (ignition in). I've searched but to no avail. Can anyone verify were the green and red wires go? Most documenttion is for the turbo dizzy, there is very little info on NA dizzys. Thanks.

Thanks Matt. I'll try the jumpers on the ecu board to accept a VR signal and go from there.

The Tach Output of the Crane ECU is going to the MSD tach adapter. The Crane ECU is beig triggered by Spark Output A at 50% dwell from the MS ECU. The ignition into the MS ECU is coming from the E12-80 igntion module off the '81 NA dizzy. I amost had the car started this way but the E12-80 module failed. Can I jut use the green wire off the dizzy to send an igntion signal? Also, I did not have an RPM signal on crank and run, but I had spark, and injector pulse and the engine was starting to run.

MS is controlling just fuel. Ignition is controlled by the Crane box.

I swapped an '81 N/A L28 into a 240Z including the '81 1N/A dizzy. I've searched extensively but found most info on the turbo dizzy with the CAS.... I'm running N/A. with a custom intake, fuel only. I'm trying to wire the ign out to the Megasquirt ECU MS1 v 3.0 MSNS. I did the wiring mods to the Megasquirt ECU and have it set to 50% dwell to the Crane box ign out on Spark A out. I am also using an MSD tach adapter to run the stock tach. I tried to use the green wire from the dizzy to the Megasquirt ECU ign out bypassing the stock ign E12-80 ECU that bolts up to the dizzy. I also tried it with the stock E12-80 ECU and got an rpm signal, but now I am having trouble getting any signal at all. I was under the assumption that the MS 1 v 3.0 could pick up an ign signal staright from the stock N/A dizzy green wire, is this true? Or do I need the stock E12-80 ECU to provide the signal? Does the dizzy provide a VR signal that the Megasquirt ECU can recognize? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I need to confirm the 12v start and run wires and how to obtain a 12v switched (power in start and run). I have an early 1973 240Z that I'm going to wire in a Crane ignition box and Megasquirt ecu. I've searched the site and I'm pretty sure I have the answer but I'd like to make sure before I solder any wires. I plan to remove the ballast resistor and connect the G/W and B/W wires that were connected to it. I know that this will give me the full 12V in start and run, but I'm wondering if I can run a wire from this point to give me 12V switched (power in start and run) for my ignition box and relays. It seems like it would, I'm just confused how power is distributed to the two G/W wires with the ballast removed. Would this be a good source for 12V switched? Also, I am wiring an electric fan relay that calls for 12V in the Run-only position - - can I pull that from the B/W wire before it hits this junction? If not are there any other good places to pull 12V switched and Run-only?

I searched the site and found out that you can T-offf the TB port for the brake booster (with check valve) and PCV line (with PCV valve). If anyone has used or is running this setup please let me know. The post I found went back to 2004. original thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93726&highlight=pcv+brake+booster+check+valve

Thanks for the reply, Spork... your intake looks amazing (can't wait to hear it inhaling air)... but, I'm not sure if I can tap it again... I took the intake off so many times, I had to retap on of the threads on the head, so I'd rather leave it be... now, I'm thinking that I'll get a catch can for the PCV, and if that's the case, I'll have two vaccuum ports. The TB port is pretty big in diameter and would match up well with the booster. Could I t-off the others from the back of the intake (MAP, FPR and Dizzy)? I'm not sure of the wisest way to split the two sources, so any feedback would be appreciated. EDIT: I guess the catch can still needs a vaccuum source - can that one port be shared: brake booster and PCV to TB? I figure that the brake booster could be dedicated and the PCV is just 'sucking in' blow by gasses. Would that be a fair assumption?

I am finishing up my NA L28 build into a 240Z: mefasquirt I 3.0 with a lonewolf intake, matched to a ported/polished and shaved head (~9.3 CR), 3 angle valve job and a mild schneider stage II cam. I tapped the back of the intake for a vaccuum reference but now I'm wondering if it will be able to accomidate everything: MAP sensor, FPR (Aeromotive), 280zx dizzy, and brake booster/accessories. I have stock 240Z brakes and booster, I just replaced the brake master cylinder. Can I t-off this single source or do I need to use an additional one? I have a port on my MSA 60mm thottle body, but I was planning on using that for the pcv.

I'm all set, I've located the part.

I need the male connector and pigtail that conenct to the CLT sensor on the L28 (280Z or 280zx). The would be the engine harness side. I can't find it at parts stores or online and I do not have time to go to a junkyard. If anyone has a spare connector for sale, let me know. Email: 280zerx@gmail.com

Hi, I have a low-milaege L24 block that was running before it was pulled last year. It is complete with the head, intake, carbs and flywheel. If you are just interested in the block it can be seperated. It's located for pickup in Westport, CT (45 minutes from NYC). Let me know if you are interested or want any additonal information.

I was told that the MSI v 3.0 board will pick up the signal from a 280ZX turbo or na dizzy without a pullup resistor... can anyone confirm this?