Gabriel Tyler

We've got about 15 sets of these in use so far. Nobody has come close to breaking anything yet! With the HP some of you guys are pushing, that's saying something!

Hey, if they don't fit, we're always glad to do something a little custom to make them fit!

Hey guys! These are only designed to be used on the AE86 Corolla strut casings. On that particular car, it would be impossible to tag the gland nut against the bottom of the strut top without putting the tire through the fenderwell. On the Z car or on the MR2 where you could actually tag the gland nut on the upper strut mount, these wouldn't do any good at all. We don't generally use the AGX's on the Z cars as they valving isn't appropriate for the spring rates most Z cars use. Sectioning the strut casing is ALWAYS the best option. I'm sorry if our website is not entirely clear as far as vehicle differentiation goes. Our F.A.Q. and such is designed specifically for the AE86 Corolla chassis for the most part, so things like our "spring rate guide" can not be translated over to the Z cars, etc...

Sorry guys! Business has been BUSY lately with our regular lineup and it's really backburnered all our new and upcoming products. There are a lot of questions here on this thread that I need to take the time to answer, and will try to get to that soon. Other than the R230 rear end setup, we have everything else sorted and sure it will all bolt up perfectly (disc brakes and all). The R230 rear will work as well, but since some people want to notch the back end of the car, and others don't we'll be providing mustache bars custom machined to the customers specs. You tell us what you want on the mustache bar, we'll make it that way (we have the mustache bars all here done, except for the mounting holes for the diff). All parts except the dogbone will be powdercoated gunmetal grey with a clearcoat of powdercoating over the top. If you would like to get parts done a different color, we can do that as well for an additional cost (if we can squeeze it in to another batch of our powdercoating, it wouldn't cost anything, we often do red powdercoating, but anything else would be some extra $$) The axle prices below include us dissassembling your donor CV's and axles and installing them on our new axles. You are welcome to purchase parts individually or completely. Prices: Backing Plates $550 Moustache bar $250 Lower control Drop mounts with dogbone $300 Dogbone on it’s own $70 Front Diff Mount $150 Axles $480 Struts prepped for coilovers $240 Coilovers for rear strut casings $199 Shocks for rear strut casings $240 Weld on rear camber plates $180 Please contact us directly at ggtyler@yahoo.com or drop us a call at 530-626-7334 We are here normal business hours Monday through Friday Pacific Standard Time.

auxilary: Any of the S13 or S14 4 lug stuff will bolt right up as well. We've made them so it will accept all of these options.

More pics, getting closer to getting it finished! Stout steel dogbone: Forward diff mount: Forward diff mount, powdercoated gunmetal grey finish: Strut casings, bare, setup for coilovers: Full rear coilovers with weld in camber plates, complete: Full rear coilovers with stock upper mounts: Heavy Duty Swaybar drop mounts: Swaybar mounted on Dogbone: Rear hub mount:

This setup is really for the cars that are pushing over 400HP, and we expect it to be able to handle the 700HP cars without a problem. We'd rather overbuild than build adequate parts. Our parts see regular use on Z cars in the East African Rally and on rally cars in the Bahamas.

Sven: I'll have to look into that. We keep pretty much all our products in the lineup in stock at all times. For the S30 we have: Roll Center Adjusters (bump steer spacers) TC Rods (caster rods) Weld in Camber plates (front and rear) Full front and rear coilovers built to spec DIY weld in coilover kits Front and rear strut braces I think that's about it, but we are always open to product suggestions. If you think there is a need for something and would like to see it made, let us know.

I really haven't taken the time to add up what the whole setup will cost. I'm sure it won't be "cheap" as there are a lot of components going into a complete setup, but at the same time, we try not to gouge anyone just because we can. This is our full time job, and making an honest living is good enough for us. No deposits! I don't like to hold onto anyones money unless I can deliver reasonably quickly. I've got enough materials on hand for 8 of the R200 diff setups, and I think about 2 or 3 of the larger R230 style setups. I'll keep you posted!

big B: We've really only got a couple details left to sort out, I'm hoping to have about 10 sets ready in 3 weeks or so. We considered swapping the whole S13/S14 subframe in, but it would require way too much hacking and slashing, plus it's pretty darn heavy!

Warren, I totally understand what you are saying. We pretty much guage the number of people tuning a certain chassis by how many requests we get for parts from that group. For example... The S12 group says there are a ton of guys modding the cars, but in actuality there are only probably 10 core guys that keep the hype up on the forums. We made Bump Steer Spacers for the S12, but to date, we've sold maybe 3 pairs of them With markets that are kind of "lean" like that, we are always glad to try and provide help in the way of interchangeable parts or individual components that might be able to be adapted to the specific car. Give us some specs and we'll see if we can come up with something that will fit!

DavyZ: I'm not sure what the weight difference will be. The factory stuff is pretty heave with the drums and all. I don't think we'll be any heavier but I'll have to weigh it loaded with the calipers, rotors and such. Matt K: We probably won't be making this for the 280ZX, because there is like....only 6 guys in the known universe modding the 280ZX

- Kind of a shame to see that killer work mounted to a stock LCA... ---->Hah...one thing at a time... we'll work on LCA's next - Need a gusset from the spindle pin plate to the hub carrier plate, yes? ---->Yes, we'll probably gusset that. Thanks for the reminder! - Camber adjustment is way cool, but will require something more than the fricion of bolt/nut to keep it in place, no? ---->Absolutely not. Nearly every car on the market with McPhearson struts now can use this camber adjustment. I use the same design on my 1991 MR2 Turbo with 245 front 285 rear Hoosiers. We use bolts and nuts with serrated heads and and impact wrench to tighten them and the likely hood of them slipping is very rare. I haven't slipped mine in the last 5 years. - Have you seen TerryO's (blueovalz) thread on redesigning the geom. of the rear strut housing? Might be something to at least consider. ----->I'll look at that. Our main goal is to provide a short stroke option on the rear shocks that allows you to lower the car significantly without losing stroke on the shocks and bottoming them out. I'm very impressed. I'm also happy to see that the S30 has an aftermarket that can support investment like this. Those pieces would look soooo nice with an anodized finish (I've read powder coating is a no-no for susp./chassis components since it impairs weld/corrosion inspection). ----->Serving small groups of enthusiastic owners is our speciality. The parts will be powdercoated, as you can not anodize steel, but have no fear, my business partner has 35 years welding experience and used to work on nuclear submarines. His welds will pass any X-Ray or stress test you can throw at them (plus they are pretty

Yes, Z32TT, thank you for the correction. The axles are custom made from scratch. 280ZForce: This setup will not affect offset or backspacing of your wheels. The hub face ends up in the exact same place as it originally was. The Q45 and Z32TT is the biggest diff/axle/hub and stub axle that we've found available. They are not quite as easy to find, and probably overkill, but we will have that setup as well. The way we are making the backing plate it, will work with any of the e-brake setups, cable or internal rotor drum, from any year donor car listed. If you'll look closely you'll also see our beefy rear lower control arm mounts. These will also have a reasonably thick connecting bar between them. I've seen pretty ones done up in aluminum, but I'm not too keen on using aluminum for parts that can see such a high side load on a road race car running Hoosiers!