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CamH

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Posts posted by CamH

    2013 CV Shaft Conversion Options

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by CamH

    Hey guys, 

     

    It's 2013, and most of the information on the site concerning CV conversions is no longer useful due to lack of parts. The two manufacturers of CV adapters that I'm ware of, both Modern Motorsports and M2 Differentials, are no longer in business. I was looking forward to throwing on my set of 280ZX Turbo CV shafts in the coming weeks, but it appears that 280ZX Turbo shafts may no longer be an option, unless there are other companies building adapters.

     

    It seems to me that we now have three options for CV shafts on our S30 Z cars:

    Custom CV shafts like these:

    http://www.driveshaftshop.com/datsun-510-240z-c-v-conversion-kit-with-108mm-flanges

    http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

     

    OR Custom 280ZX Turbo CV adapter such as:

    http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Modifications/CV%20Halfshaft%20(280ZX%20Turbo)%20Conversion%20for%20late%20260Z-280Z.htm

     

     

    OR crazy Z32 R200/R230 VLSD conversion (seems way over the top for my car):

    https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car

     

    Does anyone else have any thoughts on this issue?

    WTB 280Z Stub Axles

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    I don't have a pair but i do have one of those which i believe are 27-spline.  Just sold a pair to another member last week.

     

    Yes the 27 spline ones are what I'm looking for. I'm doing a 280ZXT CV shaft conversion. But you only have one? I'm trying to get a set

    Innovate LC-1 Giving Me Headaches

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    I've heard about some electrical noise issues when grounding your MS and LC1 in the same spot. I was having issues with my LC1 resetting and then never coming back (simply flashing its lowest value forever), and I regrounded separately from the MegaSquirt, and don't seem to be having the issue anymore, but I've only got maybe an hour of driving on it since moving the ground.

    Finally got my turbo swap started, Need some help diagnosing problems

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    For low impedance injectors, you must run resistors in series or utilize Pulse Width modulation (PWM). Impedance is equivalent to DC resistance. If you don't have enough resistance to maintain a reasonable current flow, current will flow so fast that, yes, you will heat up your injectors to the point of failure.

     

    I haven't dealt with EDIS all that much, but I just thought I would give my input.

     

    Yes, but I am saying the MegaSquirt PWM is fine. People claim that it is weak, but there really isn't much evidence to support that. With the mod I outlined above, and the PWM set up correctly in the injector characteristics menu, there is no reason that MegaSquirt can't drive 6 or more low impedance injectors without needing resistor packs.

    Finally got my turbo swap started, Need some help diagnosing problems

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted · Edited by CamH

    I can help you with #4 as I just fixed this issue! It is correct that the MegaSquirt injector driver wasn't really made to handle 6 injectors -- it creates too much electrical noise for the MegaSquirt to handle. HOWEVER, before you go out and buy resistors to put in your system, there is an easier way! It is very simple to fix the MegaSquirt injector drivers to allow them to handle 6 low impedance injectors with ease, and it ends up getting less noise than installing resistor packs inline with the injectors! Run down to Radio Shack, and buy yourself a 47uf 35V capacitor. Now, take the case off of your MegaSquirt, and find the "boot" header on it. On the underside of the board, it should have the back side of the "boot" header pins sticking through. Solder your two 47uf 35V capacitor leads to the two "boot" header pins. Stick the case back on your MS, and bam! You're ready to go with your new, low noise setup. This may fix other problems you are having as well. For me, I had trouble getting the engine to rev over ~5k or so without having it cut out, and it would also cut out randomly while cruising. Both issues are completely gone.

     

    Edit: I also know 5, it should be 2 per cycle, alternating

    L28ET Cam Swap

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I guess you can put the lash pads 180 degrees different from one another, but I believe the bottoms are machined to be completely flat, so it really shouldn't matter. I've had 3 different cams in my car now, and have not worried about lash pad orientation, only proper thickness. No issues yet!

    M Coupe or S2000?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Obviously, the S2000 and the E36 M3 are going to be much, much slower in a straight line than a Corvette, E46 M3, M Roadster, or M Coupe. There's about a ~90hp difference between the two groups, and it shows.

     

    Personally, my DD is a lightly modded E36 M3, and one of my very close friends DDs a lightly modded AP1 S2000, and I have a lot of time behind the wheel in that car as well. I've never been in either car at anything like an AutoX, though. I like my M3, but I know it's not the fastest car in the world, and would probably get shown up by a new Maxima, or something (same goes for the S2000.) The S2000 is pretty nice to drive as well, but only around town. They are wound up very, very tight on the freeway, and it can be very obnoxious. The S2000 makes you wish that they had a 7 speed transmission, or a sane 6th gear ratio. I think the AP2 is slightly better in this regard.

     

     

    Really, all the cars that you listed are pretty fun, good looking, "cool" cars, and you'd probably enjoy any of them. I'd personally buy the M Coupe if given the choice. What a beautiful car!

     

     

    That's my 2 cents.

    Rota RB-Rs and Suspensions

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by CamH

    Are you running rear camber plates? I am worried about ride quality on my setup when I go to 17" wheels and tires. I have the oem rubber hats on my coilovers. Ride height is good, but my suspension is lacking it seems. I have 250pound spring in the rear. I know if i raise the car up some it gets alot better but I dont want it to look like a 4x4.

     

    I run front bolt in camber plates, no camber plates in the rear. I believe my springs are 225 F and 200 R. I run Tokico Illuminas on 4 setting front, 3 setting rear. Ride is quite harsh but the handling is very confident.

    blow thru 4barrel

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I believe this is how old school Turbo Tom turbo kits were. Blow through Holleys. I don't think you'll be able to run into 11s on a 50 trim T3/T4 without a lot of boost and some healthy traction. Does this car still have an L26 in it?

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