Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About mditt8671

  • Rank
    Moving Up

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. By the way, I don't know if anyone on this site uses it, but I would be willing to take cryptocurrency as well as traditional means of payment.
  2. I don't have those pics right now but I can get them. The original color was yellow... this has been repainted. They used a reddish primer under the paint. I believe the left rear fender skin was replaced at some point; there is a cut inside the wheel well between the fender/wheel well that really needs to be connected for best structural integrity. I might have a pic of that; I'll try to find it. ETA: found it
  3. THIS IS NOT THE CURRENT STATE OF THE CAR. The car has been taken down in preparation to be sandblasted; front fenders, hood, engine grill, etc all removed. R180 rear is gone and have an R200 that goes with it, but it's not installed. Intent was to get it sandblasted and start reassembly. The floor pans are the worst part of it, but the rust doesn't go far and I have the Zedd floor pans to completely replace them (along with frame rails and everything else needed to make this new again). All parts from disassembly have been put in labeled ziploc bags, not just tossed in a coffee can or something.
  4. I have a blog that details the work I have done with the car, lists everything bought, shows all the "trouble" spots that I was working on (and how minor they are). Pics of the car before starting work, as well as in progress. 240z Restoration Blog
  5. No, not yet. I'm still buried in house renovations so I haven't been able to market it properly. If someone wants to make a reasonable offer I'd be glad to work with them.
  6. Hey, you can always get another one, wink wink!
  7. Yes, it's available. Remodeling the new house is taking a lot longer than expected so I still haven't had the opportunity to move everything around to get more pictures yet.
  8. Yes, it's still available. I'm just in the middle of getting another house ready to move into, and I haven't been pushing this as much because my garage is packed full and I haven't had the opportunity to take a bunch of new photos yet.
  9. Still available... this is a solid chassis and needs very little metalwork... a rare find on the east coast. PM me if you think you might be interested and let's make a deal. I found the list of parts that I've gathered to finish the car. All will go with it. If something was cracked or worn, I bought original parts in much better condition when they became available. Everything that follows is a list of my purchases since I originally bought the car: Driver's side carpet, shock caps Inspection lids (original) Series 1 Ash Tray Upper left and bottom chrome trim pieces for rear hatch Inspection lids, louvered Series 1 Console coin holder Rear taillight panel surround to replace the chrome aftermarket one Left side interior quarter panel trim (Included right side panel as well, not needed). Edelbrock 71164 Performer RPM Vortec Intake Manifold, ajusa.com, $256.52 shipped, brand new. Desert Z Rear Disc Brake Conversion MSD Ignition 8360 Distributor Bad Dog Parts 240Z Frame Rails Zedd Findings floor pans POR-15 Engine Enamel, 1 pint, Chevy Orange Rear Speaker Panel Dash cover Wiper Nuts (4) marker lights, hybridZ.org R200 3.54 differential, R200 mustache bar, 280Z driveshaft, stub shafts, transverse link Duplicolor Graphite Wheel Coating paint HWP102 (this is an almost exact match for the original paint on the taillight surrounds) Replacement roofs (2)... if you want to delete the sunroof Steel hood to replace fiberglass one Extra original windshield Headliner Assorted carpet pieces 240Z steering wheel from 1973 car with pad L/R door skins in great shape
  10. I hate to do this, but honestly I just don't have the time to finish this. I'm moving to a new house in the next month or two and this can't go with me. I have a 1971 240z, the plate says Dec 1970. It has all the Series 1 criteria. The SBC V8 conversion seems to be positioned halfway between the scarab and JTR position. It has a 4 speed Muncie transmission. I bought this several years ago from a forum member in NYC. It was supposed to be almost road ready... and I'm sure it ran... but it wasn't exactly as he promised. I bought it anyways since I had driven the 10 hours to get it, and decided to fix the few things that needed fixed. Of course that turned into a "while I'm down this far, I might as well do _____ too." Long story short, it's disassembled about as far as it needs to be for a good, solid rebuild. My next step in the project was to have it sandblasted and start putting it back together. The "issues": The floor pans need replaced. The frame rails need a patch welded on at the TC plates. It's already cleaned up, ready to go there. The rear driver's side fender was replaced by a previous owner, but needs to be stitched to the fender well liner for true unibody safety. Luckily, the chassis hasn't been twisted. The good news is that I have assembled virtually everything that needs bought to make it great again. The roof has a sunroof; if you don't like that, I have two complete, dent free roofs that will go with it. Just remove the spotwelds and the solder, and replace it. I bought replacement carpet, not brand new but in good shape by someone parting it out. I have Zedd Findings floorpans and rails for both sides. I have the vintage wood grain 240z steering wheel, the wooden 4 speed shift knob, a speaker enclosure for the back, TWO fuel tanks (they both need electrolysis work/restored, and hoses replaced of course), a steel hood plus the fiberglass hood that came with it, a great condition rear taillight panel (the one on it was chrome), a spare windshield (the original is still fine though), various small parts to make it more Series-1 correct (I even bought the correct ash tray... ouch). There were speakers cut into the door panels, I bought good condition replacement panels to make that right. The engine is out, and on a stand because I wanted to sandblast the engine well so it would paint-match the rest. You can even have the engine stand. I never got to start it, I was going to have some work done to increase the horsepower. Vortex headers. Chromed Edelbrock manifold. I had taken out the R180 rear, and have a R200 sitting beside it. I didn't get far enough to make sure I absolutely have everything I need for the R200 conversion; either grab a cheap R180 and revert it, or follow through with the R200 conversion. There are more comfortable seats that were in it, but I got some vintage seats as well and was planning on having them recovered. I have original seat mounts to cut from a junked car, and had done electrolysis rust removal on them. They are in pretty good shape, but one or two might need some buildup/reinforcement. No rust under the battery tray. The original battery tray was somewhat rusted, but I have one in really good shape that I rescued from a junker. Quarter panel window plastics, dash cover... basically, anything that was cracked or damaged inside or out I scoured ebay and the classifieds and bought the parts to fix it right. There's a lot of stuff, and I'm sure I'm missing a lot more and will add on as I look around and discover more stuff. I really don't want to part this out and sell bits and pieces. This is almost everything you need to get this all back together and on the road except for paint, a welder, and some time. So I'd like to sell it to someone who can continue that. I know it's really hard to find a not-rusted out Z on the east coast. This started out on the west coast and was brought out here a few years before I bought it, so it's survived well. I have a clean PA title for it. I have some pics from when I got it, and it's been in my garage ever since. The front end is disassembled in preparation from complete sandblasting, and everything is packed in pretty tight in my garage stall... but if there's anything in particular you want to see, and you're seriously interested, I'll be glad to get you some pics. That's all I can think of right now... $5k will get you everything you need to rolling with the fun part of a car project... just putting it back together again. Located about an hour north of Pittsburgh PA.
  11. So, it looks like there are spot welds all the way around it, but it looks like the roof bends underneath up front, and the spot welds are on the underside? Seems like you went with removing the spot welds from the donor skin from underneath as well...
  12. I'm going to get rid of the sunroof in my project car. I have a roof I bought on eBay a while back, and I have a spare that I got with a parts car that I just bought. I am planning on going the route of using a spotweld cutter to remove the spotwelds on the roof and replacing the whole skin. Through doing some reading, I have seen a few approaches to this, and wanted to run it by everyone to see if this is the best way. I haven't started yet, so let me know if any of this is un-doable, or going to be unnecessarily difficult. Donor roof: Make pilot holes through the spotwelds from the top; cut the spotwelds off from the underside. This results in a smaller hole in the donor roof and less filling. Removing roof on project car: Use grinder to carefully cut away spotwelds to minimize chance of going too deep with the spotweld cutter. I am assuming that there are spotwelds across the front and back of the roof (windshield/hatch) as well, and it's not leaded in there? If so, then I just need to remove all the spotwelds around the roof, heat up the seams on the A and B pillars to melt the lead and it will come off? How is the roof molded into the drip rails? Is there anything special I'll need to do there, after getting the spotwelds removed, to remove the skin? Thanks for any help, I just want to make sure I have a clear understanding of what I need to do before I start digging in.
  13. I guess I should specify that this car isn't going to be going on long drives. This is going to be a summertime fun car, dry weather, local car shows, etc. The old seats don't seem TOO bad sitting on the garage floor, but I'm guessing that will change a bunch when you're in the cockpit.
  14. I just picked up a 1972 parts car today to get some steel and a hood, and it came with the original seats. The car I'm working on had seats from a more modern car installed. These vintage seats need new vinyl, and possibly new foam in places, but other than that they're in good shape and I believe complete. How is the driving comfort of the original seats? I'm torn between going strictly for comfort vs. going for a more original look.
  15. I have a good bodyman who does work really reasonable. I want to get the lower half of my car (and the engine bay) sandblasted before I continue on. I was thinking that before I take it to the blasters, I would take it down to have him go over it to make sure that I was correct in my rust assessment. Both floor pans need replaced... I have the Zedd Findings pans but I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have him evaluate it and get it blasted before I put $300 worth of custom sheet metal on the car. However the floor pans look really bad and I want him to be objective about the rest of the car and ignore that area. Would I be able to remove the rusty pans, not replace them and be able to lift it onto a trailer, get it blasted, etc without risk of twisting the car? Or should I leave the pans in or replace them before I get it evaluated and blasted?
  • Create New...