ZsRUSTIN

Hey Guys, I just found this optical ignition setup at a local junkyard. It came off a wrecked 260Z. I got the whole setup for $6.95, with the distributer. It has a optical trigger and came with a epoxy type coil. It has 1 wire that wasn't connected, maybe a tach output. I took it home, cleaned up all the connections, hooked it up to 12v and gave it a spin and it zapped the s**t out of me. Someone says it might be a early Allison setup. Would this be a reliable setup for me to use on my 73 240? Thanks, Doug

Hi Jon, the control arms on our Zs are quite short. So just like the older dirt bikes where the chain is tightest when parallel to the sprocket/ swingarm pivot and looser when up and down, the axles are loosest at parallel and tighter when up or down on our Zs. This is why most modern race bikes have the rear suspension pivot in the engine cases right near the sprocket, to minimize this loose/tight action. Doug

Hey guys, thanks for all the help. I got a response from Ross at M.M. He got back to me within an hour. In addition to great products, he seems like a really nice guy. I mentioned to him that the passenger side also seemed tight at full extension. He stated that was normal, so the tolerances with these axles is really close. Like FASTZCARS stated it could have had an slight accident in its life, but the diff bolts into the same carrier assy that locates the lower control arms. And if my car was "tweaked", and the drivers side was tight I would think that the pass side would have some extra play. I measured the travel on the pass side lower control arm without the axles and it normally stops when the strut travel reaches max extension. With the axle hooked up it slows down and stops about 1 inch short of the maximum travel. It would seem that the bottoming out of the CV axle against the end of the stub axle is stopping it. I think if you removed 1/4 inch from the end of the stub axle the flange could also be 1/4 inch shorter. It would give about 3/8 inch clearance. This is a part of the e-mail I sent Ross. Question: The passenger side installed OK, but it also appears to be to bottoming out when the control arm is lowered all the way. Reply: It will bottom out at full droop quite likely, your car will never see this in actual use/function so this is fine. Hmmmm... Thanks again, Doug

Hi, I allready flipped the cage on the axles. In original post... I did the CV shortening modification according to M.M.s tech sheet. Its like I mentioned, it is very close to fitting. I can actually pry it in place, though its bottomed out. This is while axle is parallel to ground. And yes, the short one is on drivers side. I dont think the long one would even come close to fitting on the drivers side. Thanks

Whoops, my mistake They are 280Z axles. The fit is really close, like 1/8 inch too long at most.

Hi, I got the axles from a Z auto recycler in NJ, outside NYC. He says they came from the same car, and yes, one is about 1" shorter. Thanks

Hey guys, I am near the end of installing a R200 conversion with 300ZXT CV axles in my 73 240Z. I got the billet flanges from M. M. and a set of 280ZX stub axles with new bearings and seals. I did the CV shortening modification according to M.M.s tech sheet. The problem is when I try to slide the drivers side 4 bolt end of the axle into the billet flange the sheet metal CV cover starts to pop off. It seems the axle is too long. I attempted this with the control arms jacked up so the axles are straight out parallel to the ground. The splined end of the axle is bottoming out on the threaded end of the stub axle and distorting the end cap. The passenger side installed OK, but it also appears to be to bottoming out when the control arm is lowered all the way. I've been messing with this for a few days and I'm about to lose it... Any help would be great. Thanks, Doug

I checked and they were in there. I just cleaned and regreased my CV joints and I thought the clip setup was the same as the fixed inner joint. Thanks, Doug

Hey guys, I am in the process of installing a R200 and 300ZXT axles in my '73 240. I was getting ready to install the axles and just realized that the retaining circlips are missing on the ends that insert into the diff. I went to my local Nissan dealer and they were clueless about what I needed. Anyone have a part # or any ideas where I can get these? The axles were from a 1987 300 ZX turbo. Thanks, Doug

The belts are used on choppers to help dampen out firing pulses. A lot of these aftermarket "Harley" motors are up to 120 - 140 cubic inches. Thats over 1000cc per cylinder, firing at an uneven order. Thats a pretty big bang. (how about a 7.0 liter L6) Chain primary/final drive on these bikes would make them even more uncomfortable to ride. I have converted several British twins (infamous for vibrating) to primary belt drive and it really smoothed them out. The belt drives seem to be tougher on the bearings since they have to run a pretty high amount of tension, especially if the pulley is located far outboard of the bearing. Doug

I have hotted up a few Japanese 4-Cylinder motorcycle engines and have never seen a chain failure. Most of these 600cc sportbikes are redlining to 17,500 rpm in stock form. And the kids buy aftermarket rev-limiters to push them farther. When I ride these bikes my I hear a voice saying SHIFT, SHIFT, SHIFT, but theres still 4,000 RPMs left. The enclosed chains are not really noisy when properly adjusted. They use the HYVO type chain. The roller chains get noisy when really loose or worn, I think our Datsuns use a double roller type. I know the Honda VFR V-4 used gear drive to its 4 cams, pretty quiet except for a slight whine, which sounds pretty cool. And these gears are straight cut. I have never heard of one of those failing either. I have seen older Hondas where the cam chain was so loose it wore a hole through the front of the cylinder, still with no failure.(they would come in for an oil leak.) I have a 1999 996 Ducati V twin which uses belts, kevlar composit I believe. They have been a problem, and have been updated several times. When these belts let go, usually at high RPM, it's catastrophic. I changed mine at 4200 miles, just to be safe. If you keep up with the service, belts are OK, but do not push them to thier limits. Mileage or time wise. Doug

WOW! Too bad that brace is under the car. That thing is a work of art... People should be able to see that. Doug

Hey there, I am looking into rebuilding the stock seats in my '73 240. I bought the "elastic strap kit" from Too Intense Restoration and now that I have the seat apart I realize that the foam has turned to mush. Has anyone here rebuilt the stock seats using new foam and new covers from T.I.R. or MSA? How about the leather kits? I'm just wondering how nice they come out and how much support they have when redone. I figure with the strap kit, foam and new covers you are looking at about $200 per seat. ($300 for leather) Am I wasting money & time rebuilding the stock seats, or is it worth it? I have searched, but most posts cover seat swapping from a newer vehicle, and I like the look of the stock ones. Thanks, Doug

Wrong forum, but try http://www.redlineweber.com/ . they stock a pretty good supply, and have good tech help.

Hey, how about 6 of these. You would need some really long rods, but the sucker would scream. This came out of my Honda CRF450 motocross bike. The machining for the piston pin actually goes into the bottom ring groove with the aftermarket piston/rod setup. I cant figure why this thing doesn't get cocked sideways.