Vivalawham

That looks like it! Thanks!

Hello all, I have been trying for weeks (unsuccessfully) to identify the hose pictured below. It comes from the front (I think at/near the water pump?) of the block and curves around the driver's side, then attaches to a nipple on the underside (can't even see it looking from the side). Anyone know what it is? I've been to numerous car parts stores, scanned through both the Black Dragon catalog and the Factory Service Manual and I cannot for the life of me figure out what it is...

Thanks for the replies! I think I'll go with the Energy ones - $30 shipped.

Hey guys, I'm looking for the bushing that inserts into either end of the rear moustache bar on a '78 280z. Is there anywhere I can look at a diagram of the rear suspension so I can identify exactly what I'm looking for, or does anyone know where I could purchase a set? I would just buy an entire bushing set, but at this point I just need to get the car on the road (with as little expense as possible). Already have part of the rear suspension off for replacing the struts, and these seem to be the worst off of all the bushings. -Bryce

Turns out it's the plastic wiper linkage bushing. You guys have any idea where I could get a replacement? Guy at the parts store said there's a possibility a generic Nissan wiper bushing would do the trick.

Thanks guys - taking it apart now.

Paid him a few hundred, unfortunately. Should have just pulled in with a rollback and yanked it.

On the way home from buying my '78 280z, the wipers died... worked fine at first. I can still hear movement, but nothing windshield-side. I'm assuming that the linkage is shot, but after several searches on Google and this site I can't find ANYTHING on replacement parts (only used) or people with similar experience. Anyone else had this problem?

I haven't given that a try (didn't even know there was a z car club in middle TN). Thanks!

I have a dilemma - I took my '78 280Z to a "friend"s mechanic where he quoted me a very low price to almost completely rebuild the engine. About two months later (when he told me it would be two weeks), he tells me that he doesn't have time to finish it, and I am left with a partially complete engine with all other components in the engine compartment torn out. It still requires fuel rail, injectors, hoses, valve cover, pulleys, intake, A/C, etc. I have all the parts I need (I think... except for the fuel rail which I have located). So here's my question - does anyone know of a shop (or individual) in the Middle Tennessee area that could finish this clusterf@$%& in a reasonable amount of time without charging me an arm and a leg? I'm pretty good at finding parts and researching what I need, but I have nowhere near the mechanical expertise to attempt to finish this thing. To add to it all, I'm driving my dad's spare truck while I attempt to get this car running - and he's getting a bit irritated that I've had it so long.

I know I haven't updated in a while - here's where we're at. The car blew the headgasket en route to a shop, so I've decided to keep her stock for now and just fix what I've already got. She's currently getting: Headgasket Timing Chain Water Pump Radiator Heater Core Struts (KYB all around) New Center Console ($130.00 OEM NEW on eBay!) Plugs/Wires Cold Air Intake One question I had - there seem to be a lot of suspension bushing kits floating around - is there any particular one that you guys might recommend? Most of this will be finished by the weekend. I'll take pictures once I get it back.

Maybe this has been the reason I was so confused - most of the info on the stroker projects has been so technical I didn't understand exactly what was involved. Is there a thread/website that breaks it down?

Hi all, I've been doing a bit of reading on the LD28, and the only thing I've accomplished is add to my confusion. So here it is - I'm new to engine building, and I want something easy, relatively cheap, reliable, and fast. The only other thing I want is to win the lottery. I may have a line on two complete running LD28 engines for cheaper than I can get one L28ET. Should I consider the LD28, or is there too much involved for a newbie with great expectations and a wallet full of dreams?

Just found two complete ld28 engines, one with a knock, for 500 (assuming the guy still has them). Maybe I should do that instead? I hear these engines have a lot of potential. My friend who located them used to have one that put out about 330hp N/A.

Update: I called the scrap yard to double check what came with the engine, per bumble zee's excellent Turbo Swap Guide list of required components. Here is what comes with, and I need to know if I should still go ahead and get it, or if I need to hold off and find one that comes with everything: Engine Turbo Turbo Manifold Downpipe Injectors Sensors are assumed to be present Everything else (ECU, FI harness, ignition harness, airflow meter, FI relay), is missing per the scrap yard. Opionions? How easy is the rest of this stuff to come by? -Bryce

The zxt engine I'm getting is out of the car but guaranteed to run, so we'll see what kind of kinks I run into (hopefully few). I'll start taking some more pictures once I get the engine delivered and start yanking the old L28 out.

Thanks Pyro, JMortensen and Z-ya, just the specifics I needed.

Will an OEM replacement for an NA handle the turbo I'm swapping in? I'd rather spend $82.00 now on an OEM replacement and get a performance clutch later on once I've gotten around to the mods on the engine (if it will work ok).

What's the difference between a clutch like this - http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/280Z/Centerforce/Clutch_Kit/1978/Base/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/C78DF583402.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain And a clutch like this - http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/280Z/Sachs/Clutch_Kit/1978/Base/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/S2KF61801.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain The available clutch kits kinda jump from 150 straight to 300 - just trying to figure out what makes it worth double the price. I'm looking for street application, mated to an L28ET eventually putting out between 250-300hp. I'm told I don't want a sprung disk in order to retain driveability. -Bryce

Here are the rest of the pictures I have at the moment. Mechanically the car is so-so. Drove it an hour and a half home with no major issues noticed aside from it dying if I use the turn signal (weird?), and the windshield wipers ceasing to function about halfway back. I suspect the wipers have something to do with linkage, because I could still hear the motor humming away, just no movement windshield - side. Struts are bad (of course), trans seems solid with the addition of some bushings, engine developed a knock once I got it home, but I'm not sure if it could be due to low oil/weak oil pump. It's only knocking in the cylinder at the front of the car. Knock goes away if I unplug the spark. -Bryce

Hello all, My name is Bryce and I'm new to the Z scene and these forums (be gentle if I posted this in the wrong spot). I just picked up a '78 280z 4spd for 2k, pretty good shape with no rust at all. I intend to swap an l28et, and I'd like to get a little input on whether I'm going at this right. I've done quite a bit of reading on how much this will cost me (including Drax' very informative sticky), and I've located a running '81 zxt engine with a 90 day warranty for $400. I think I can do the swap myself with a little help and some moral support - I'm told that it would be best to rebuild the clutch while I've got everything out, and I have no idea what I should be looking for. What I'm seeing is everything from OE economy kits at $80 to racing kits at $400+. I'd like to keep cost down as much as possible, but I'd like this thing to eventually put out somewhere between 250-300 HP, so I need to be sure it will handle that adequately. Are there any common issues and or pitfalls at this point in the game that I should be aware of before I jump in headfirst? My ultimate goal for this car is for it to be a nice quick daily driver. Ideally Id like to get the swap in and running, then gradually make the rest of the modifications needed to reach the output I noted above. -Bryce