Jump to content
HybridZ

datsky

Members
  • Posts

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by datsky

  1. the engine is not match to the body. but it has N42 block. so it shout be 75 or 76? however. the head is N47. not sure it is NM47 but it does have the P90 shape and diamond exhaust port. arh. i wish i have a FSM.
  2. my 260Z is very late late production. it has N42 block with EFI... so i assume they are the same. btw. my 260Z is not running any better. it hesitated when trying to bring up RPM from idle. and leak of power. i have changed the head gasket on it. wondering if the timming is off or whatever. i followed everything from the manual. but the only thing i didnt do is using the timming degree wheel. arh. i should done it. so now the car hesitated and back fire pop from intake. any suggestion?
  3. it might be the TPS problem. the previous owner (PO) have changed lots of censors and stuff. but still no luck on him. and most of them are still in good working condition by eye inspection. lol and i dont want to end up like him spending tons of unnecessory dallors. anyway. i dont see any vacuum leak yet. vacuum leak would cause faulty reading from AFM (air flow meter). or it just a faulty AFM. oh wondering if you have any info on the ECU lay outs? because in my ECU harness. the number11 and 21(im not sure the number now) are not in use. what are they? tons of thanks for your help.
  4. oh by the way. when i double the check the fuel pump. i have found there is no fuel pressure damper(im not sure if i spell it right). with out the damper, the injectors will suffer a surge of fuel, right? will it cause the abnormal RPM response? please advise. thanks
  5. make sure all your cables are hooked up to the right location. there are 2 cables that connected to the terminals. those are the only cable has male+female connector. and from the male+female connector extend about 6 inches to the terminal connectors. the white extend cable connect to positive and the black extend cable connect to negative. if those cable dont hooked up right, everythink in the car will seen to be on but the fuel pump. i disconnect the fuel pump wires and hook it up to a spare corner light. when i crank the car. the corner should be on now. if the light is on, u got power to your fuel pump, and via versa. because the fuel pump wont turn on even leave the key at the on position(it is what i just learned today. LOL). anyway good luck
  6. 1981 280ZX sold

    1983 280ZX T-top sold

    1972 toyota celica ST sold T_T

    1972 240Z sold

    1974 260Z under construction

    1975 280Z 2+2 under construction

  7. oh. good news. i just got my are started. the previous owner way back in 1992 was mistaked the main power that feed the ecu and fuel pump..etc.. he hooked up the positive and negative cable all to the positive terminal. funny is: the car's last registeration was 92. for all those years. nobody had found out this problem. it have changed many owners already. anyway. now new problem. the car idles good. however. when i tried to accelerate, the rpm drop and raise between 3.5k RPM and 2K RPM rapidly, and it wont go any higher. i have no idea what cause this. maybe the ECU. the previous owner who i bought the car from have changed the ECU. the car will not start with the current ECU. so i took the ECU from my other 74 EFI 260Z and plug the ECU to the 2+2. now the car start and idle but just jumping RPM. at this point, i wonder have any of you guys tried to put a ZX ECU into 260Z or 280Z? same engine but im not sure the ECU connector lay out are the same. any input will be highly appreciated. thanks
  8. hi guys. i just picked up a manual 75 2+2 . everything looks good but the fuel injector and fuel pump are not working. at least i dont hear any noise from the fuel pump when the key is at on position. however. the car will stay idle with starting fluid. the ECU is good. fuse is good. so what would be the common problem ? please help me out before i pulled all my hair out.. thanks
×
×
  • Create New...