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v8260z

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Everything posted by v8260z

  1. The block has not been decked and the piston part is #7070p if I am not mistaken.this yielded a 11.2 comp. ratio, might be a bit lower with the fel-pro perma-torque gaskets.I was not that concerned with the exact compression ratio of the engine at the time of building (close to 8 years ago). The car is now getting street use again after 4 years of being trailerd' to the track. I drove it for 4 years prior on the street as my primary vehicle.It had SR torquers on it w/76cc chambers for the first five years. future plans are a 6" rod 406 mech roller with AFR 210s and an internally balanced crank. I would love to have a 9sec. ride on the street. I could do it with NOS but I WONT ever run it on any engine I build. I would rather build the engine to run the number.
  2. This is the current set up of my 260: 2-bolt 350 .030 over,Speed pro .100 dome hypereutectic pistons with 1/8" plasma moly rings, stock rods and crank with ARP 190,000psi. bolts,balanced bottom end, 8" factory balancer. top end: Holley 750 d.p. with stub stack and integrated cold air box fed by glass cowl hood, Holley Contender idle to 7200 intake, this manifold is great for a street driven car by the way, have ran a sportsman and an rpm but prefer the Contender due to its larger ports, Sportsman 64cc angle plug heads with minor bowl work, custom ground Schneider hyd. roller cam: .480 .480 246 246 at .050" on a 108 center line installed straight up. (low lift for longevity on the street), Speed Pro lifters and pushrods, melling hi-volume oil pump, Aerospace Components electric water pump,Holley blue pump set at 7.5 psi, aluminum crank pulley to turn low mount alternator, MSD nascar distributor,6al box, timing computer w/2 degree retard at 6000 rpm controled by rpm activated switch, two step rev limiter 3000 and 7000 rpm (converter is too tight to use the 3000 off the line), MSD shift light set at 6000 rpm. Can anyone tell that I am a firm believer in MSD's products? Turbo 350, tci 10" converter, 10 bolt chevy rear narrowed, Richmond 4.10s, Strange spool, Mosier axles, c-clip eliminators,and Red Line synthetic diff. lube. Amsoil synthetic engine oil and filter. 1 3/4" tube full length block hugger headers with 9" collector ext. Best e.t. was on Exxon 108 leaded race gas, about 60 degree outside temp, 140 to 150 engine temp. Sorry if I bored anyone, but if anyone has questions about any other specs of the car let me know !
  3. Competition Products in Wisconsin sells World Products SR torquers for 425 to 450 a set complete. I ran these heads on my car for five years with no complaints. They kill the double humps and the late 80s in all aspects. You also have options on chamber sizes and dont have to settle for the 30 year old technology that you would have to spend close to, or more than that amount on to set up a reliable a pair of heads. After all that money spent you've still got junk yard heads that aren't near as durable and wont build as much power as the SR's.For 100 t 125 more you could get the Sportsmans. they are usually a couple hundred cheaper than JEGS on heads and alot of other parts ,and JEGS is usually tough to beat on prices.
  4. I don't run a sway bar on my car and it did aid in traction. It's been five years since i removed it and i cant remember how much of an improvement it made at the track. I also had the stock open diff. under the car with Hoosier Quick Time tires and 3.70 gears. The best pass was 11.70s with that setup
  5. Thanks for the info guys.To answer a few questions from the previous posts; the pinion angle is set at -1 degree. It's an early 260z.I have two or three pics of my frame and suspension. I am running the stock springs but I had to cut them to get the desired ride height (about 3 coils).I do currently race the car at H.R.P. and as of yesterday started driving the car on the street again.I can drive the car down the track just about with one finger.If anyone is interested in the best pass to date: 10.764 at 125.05 mph with a 1.543 60ft. foot stalling it to 1900rpm .
  6. Does anyone know of a front spring that is softer than the factory spring that can be used for drag racing (better weight transfer).The car has a custom fabbed frame,ladder bars,coil-over rear suspension,and weighs 2500# with driver. If anyone has any info it would be great. THANKS
  7. Does anyone know of a front spring that is softer than the factory spring that can be used for drag racing (better weight transfer).The car has a custom fabbed frame,ladder bars,coil-over rear suspension,and weighs 2500# with driver. If anyone has any info it would be great. THANKS
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