Blong'sZ

Well, I just wanted to update everyone of my issue and so it will help someone else maybe if they run into this same problem. Anyways, I am using a universal tilton master 7/8 with a t5 slave (plastic). Had engagement or disengagement issues, turned out to be 2 things. First, was my pilot bearing wasn't in flush with mounting surface causing the spline to be constantly spinning therefore making it harder to shift. Second and probably the problem is, I did not have enough travel on the clutch to fully disengage it. I ended up cutting the stopper under the clutch pedal which gave it another 1.5" or so of travel and that fixed the problem. I am wondering if anyone ran into this where they had to cut that stopper out and what they did to bring the disengagement point up higher? The thread on my rod is bearly on the littel clip the attaches to the underside of ur clutch pedal. I am probably going to make my push rod into the master longer to bring it up higher but then I am running into the problem of I only could come up so high with the pedal before I hit the stoper. I am already really high up, maybe just .25" more. Anyways, thanks for reading.

Yes, I figured maybe it was my hydrolics but I bleed it several times. I am using a universal tilton 7/8 mated to a t5 slave. I has a bleeder valve both on the master and slave. I went through several bottles of fluid thinking maybe I didn't bleed it well enough. I think its got no air in there, since fluid is clear and I even went as far as getting some long clear lines running it all back to the reservoir so I could cycle it many times without have to worry about running dry. The slave I tested and it is good, snapped my plastic rod strap that came with it when i tested out of trans. Also, I even went as far as sacraficing some socket to adjust the distance from the fork by grinding the sockets less than the spacer sandwiched in between the slave and the bellhousing. I guess I was trying to achieve some adjustability with an nonadjustable system. Well, it comming back out since the second time we put it back we ran into a problem with the starter not being able to even turn the engine. I'm gonna see if it has anything to do with binding caused from the install by starting the engine without trans. If starts then I will be extra carful putting trans in this time. I hope this never ending problem stops, so ready to quit this project. How do we post pics???

Well, here's some more information regarding the trans. I am trying to identify it but can't at the time. Could it be that it's out of and ls engine, here is the numbers. Hope someone can help id this here. case# = 13-86-065-902 green dog tag = 12558016 f0573 13-86-016 d19040

Not too sure if anyone can help me. I am getting very close to finishing this project. I haven't been here for a while since work and all but ran into this issue. Well, its an lt1 going into a 240z with a 6 speed manual trans (t56). Anyways, I got a new clutch pressure plate, flywheel just light resurfaced, and disc. I went to put these new part on the motor and the flywheel was easy since there is a hole for a dowel alignment mark. Disc went on facing right direction as I doubled tripled checked that. Next is the pressure plate, I looked for alignment marks all over the place, none. All the holes line up no matter how its turned. Well, bolted it on, torque to 20lbs + 30* turn, all is well pressure plate on solid as finger come upward. Mated trans to engine and attached slave to release fork, aligned fork within groove of release bearing. Started the engine and tried to shift but it won't shift. If I get the rear wheels off of the ground and shift it goes into gear without even pushing on the clutch. I mean I can just pop them in all the gears except reverse. Additionally, when in 1st and I rev the engine the rear wheel doesn't seem to spin as fast as it should, kinda like the clutch isn't full engaging. Anyways, I took it apart again to see if there is something I did wrong. Put it all back together and now my starter will not turn. I replaced the started samething. I turned crank with ranch and engine turns but seems a little hard to turn. Now I am clueless as to what could be my problem. I am gonna pull the transmission again to see if there is any binding causing too much stress for the starter motor. So since you got the background here is the question. Whats going on trans shift into all gears good, no grinding with wheels off the ground and not using clutch at all, but doesn't shift into gears at all with wheels on the ground both using clutch pedal and not? A. Transmission no good B. Clutch not engaging or disengaging C. Write what you think Should the pressure plate have alignment marks? If so where? Your help is appreciated, I can post pics but don't know how.

Yes sure, dealer guys aren't too much of a help. Will check out a performance shop today and get it taken care of. Thanks for the responses and suggestions.

Hello fellas, rather simple problem but I just haven't been able to find these darn plugs. Anyways, I am sure someone is going to flame me for posting this but I just haven't been able to get any help from my GM dealer parts guy. I ordered some freeze plugs from the dealer for my 95 LT1 engine, the parts guys says he has all the plugs for the engine. Well, he didn't, I am missing the two plugs that goes in the oil galley just above the cam openning front side behind the timing chain. Their are 3 plugs there, two are slightly bigger and one is a common size so that was no big deal. I measured these and they mearsure approximately .56" or very close to it. If you guys have any idea where I can get these I would appreciate it. Additionally, there were a couple of freeze plugs that got in the set sent from the dealer that had a little hole in it. I do have a book but it didn't describe any plugs with a hole. I am assuming the are used for some kind of a pressure release deal. Anyways, needless to say I didn't use them, good thing I noticed the little hole, it would have sucked if I missed catching them and jam them in and button everything up. Would have been a b*tch to figure out. Thanks again if you could help me with this small problem. O, this is a 383 LT1 with T56 going into a 72 240z real soon, just need to put engine together.

Hey guys, I may be buying this T56 for my LT1 Stroker, but I need to know if it will work together. The T56 is comming from a 1998 LS1 Camero, will the bolt patterns work for the LT1 block. If not has anyone had a bellhousing made to make it work. Do you guy think this is a good deal. The guy is selling the Transmission for 1500, with 70K miles. He says it shift good and is in good condition. Only reason for removal is changing to a race prep'd engine and using a different transmission. Also, throwing in a set of brand new 38lb injectors. Thanks,

Thanks for the replies. Well, my main goal is to achieve the 400+whp and it sounds like i may be able to do that with my combo's, I will be happy with whatever I get a the end I am sure. The motor came from a 95 camero and I am going to be running the paineless harness with a T56 transmission. The block has been bored 40 over, running 6" I-beams and I went with forge because I wanted a rock solid bottom end. Block is clearanced, but just need cam for clearancing. Thanks again and I will keep everyone updated.

I was wondering if anyone would suggest using the Trick Flow LT1 heads. Here are the specs: Combustion Chamber = 62cc Intake Port Volume = 195cc Exhuast Port Volume = 72cc Valve Sizes = 2.02" (IN) 1.60" (EX) Valve Springs = 1.460" dual springs I actually got them already and am in the process of just doing some pocket porting and cleaning some of the castings. These heads will be mated on an all forged internal 383 stroker bottom end around 10 to 1 compression ratio, I think, but pistons are dish for sure. I was hoping to get into the 400+hp range to the wheels and possibly thinking of a twin turbo setup in the future. I guess first question is what you guys think of these heads? Are my hp range realistic with these parts? Any good cam suggestion?