Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

10 Good

About miloZ

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/04/1979

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Seems too cheap to be any good but, they sure have a lot of options. look good. anyone tried these? https://www.amazon.com/1970-1973-Nissan-Calipers-Ceramic-Hardware/dp/B07KCT1ST9/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=240z+r1+concepts+rotors&qid=1584326961&sr=8-6
  2. NewZed, thats similar to the one I was looking at but the one you found is a little cheaper. thanks. https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd1192.htm also found this one for $45 https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-TACH-ADAPTER-CONVERTER-COP-1-2-3-4-5-6-8-10-cyl-to-any-4-6-8-Tach/141931549970?hash=item210bc79512:g:wqgAAOSwNX1b~MNz:rk:1:pf:0 seems like the simple solution to me. has anyone gone this route? thoughts?
  3. hello. I have a 73 240Z that I swapped an SBC into many years ago. did the JTR swap. Its got the HEI distributor. just now getting back to it. got it running good but when I go to plug in the tach I loose spark.... I had gone through the JTR steps to use the stock tach but it was a long time ago and now I cant find the swap book. I read hear that I need a 280Z tach to swap the guts and a resistor, (15k I read). I'd love any thoughts on the loss of spark. will this issue go away if I do the resistor and the 280 swap? Is there a better way to utilize the 240z stock tach vs swapping the guts? maybe a signal interface? or, is there an aftermarket tach that fits nicely into the stock location?
  4. I know wheel sizes have been covered several times on here, I've read a bunch, but, I still am not confident what I can fit on my Z if I roll the fenders...? its a 73 240Z with stock suspension. I have a sbc swap so im just roasting my tires (currently 14x7). I need as much traction as possible! Im rolling the fenders and have been searching to see what that will get me. I've read that some have fit 15x9 or 16x9 but I haven't seen if this is for all 4 wheels. Also, Im unclear on what offset was used. will 15x9 or 16x9 with around +20 offset fit both front and rear with the fenders rolled? pics would be awesome. Thanks
  5. Pharaohabq, threadjack away! please post anything you have here. there is very little info out there on this swap so might as well post what we can here. My update.... um, not much. I was building my sbc swap at the time I started getting interested in this VQ swap (only started it because I found a good deal on the engine/drive-train. I obviously wasn't ready for the project) and I spent the next year or so working on the sbc. the VQ35/6-speed just collected dust. I then moved into a small apartment for the next several years and had to move the VQ to my fathers shop where it remains now. Only reason I looked this thread up today is that he wants it out of his shop. I really want to keep it and do the swap but, I may have to sell it. I also have a 1970 240Z I was going to use for the swap but, its all original and running so I cant bring myself to tear it apart. Probably going to have to sell it also as its also on pops property. If I had the space and a chassis to drop it into, Id do it. sigh, so many projects, so little time (and space). There is a useful shop here in Sacramento for anyone needing help. Fitted Garage. they specialize in these swaps and are very helpful. I was going to have them help with the wiring. If there are others in the Sacramento area needing help, feel free to contact me.
  6. can someone tell me where the NATS, IPDM and BCM are located? I'm going to go pull them in an hour or two but dont want to go searching. I dont even know exactly what they look like... Engine and tranny are pulled. thanks.
  7. Question, do I need the cats? I'd rather not have any and I'd have to pay $200 extra for them. are the O2 sensors in the cats? Are the O2 sensors even required? if so, will they work without the cats?
  8. Wow. thanks all! This is looking like it may be a bit more involved than my V8 swap! I made that swap a bit more complicated than need be by going with fender headers and side exhaust which meant all new brake and clutch pedal assembly with revers mount cylinders. Easy stuff compaired to what this VQ electrical system sounds like it will be. Thanks for all the input, I have a huge list of stuff to pull now. maybe i'll just offer more for the whole car! Pharaohabq, I would love the extra advice and tips from you. It will be a couple months at least before I start building this, dont even have a chassis yet, but when I do, I will hit ya up for sure!
  9. cool thanks. so, I still am ignorant on the Acronym NATS.... also the IPDM and BCM. What do these stand for?
  10. Hello all. I just picked up a complete swap from an 05 G35 6sp for $1800 with only 37k on it I plan to drop it in a 240Z of couse. The guys is dropping it from the car now and will give me anything I need so, I'm looking for a comprehensive list of parts needed for the original car. Ive been reading through past posts and have it all figured I think... please check my list and let me know if I'm missing anything. Complete Engine with all manifolds, fuel rails, MAS, etc. wiring harness and ECU ignition switch and key trany with drivline I saw on a site that I need BCM, IPDM, NATS and FM antenna. Can someone educate me on the acronyms BCM, IPDM and NATS? What are those and where are they? and do I really need the antenna? drive by wire sysetem? Cat with O2 sensor? coolant temp sensor? Gauges? Is there anything else needed? Thanks!
  11. lazycat5, this is the combo you speak of. It is a nice fit but along with the battery tray removal and brake & clutch master relocations, you have to bend the rear of the wheel wells in a little. as can be seen in this image. I just installed these hooker comp fender headers and am now struggling through the brake and clutch master relocation if anyone has done this b4, I'll take any advice.
  12. Got some wiring issues. I started this project and removed the stock engine 4-5 years ago. I followed the JTR book and labeled the wires but... It wont crank. I realized that since the car was originally an auto that i need to find the inhibitor switch wires and jump them. According to the 240Z book, black/yellow runs from Ignition switch to inhibitor switch to starter solenoid. Also red wire runing to inhbitor switch. I found 2 black/yellow wires with bullet connector terminations in a bundle with 2 red wires by the battery tray and am 99% sure these are it. one of them is cut about 12" down from the bullet connector and I cant find the other end of the wire...? There is another black/yellow wire that comes out of the harness in the same place (main harness just below bat tray) and that is the one I ran to the sarter solinoid. It seems to me that one of the 2 black yellow wires going to inh switch should be hot when key is turned to start, right? the uncut one is not. If all else fails, i'll just do a push button start but I'd like to get this straightened out. If there is anyone in the Sacramento area with a 240Z auto or a V-8Z that I could come pester, that would be great. Thanks
  13. I installed fender headers in my V8Z and am starting in on the brake and clutch master cylinder relocation. As you can imagine, the fender headers dont leave much room for these master cylinders in the stock locations (about 5" clearance between fire wall and headers) and it would be too hot for them there anyway. Im curious if anyone has done this and if they have advice for a functional solution. Wilwood offers a nice floor mount pedal/cylinder unit but it is to deep and moves pedals forward too much. I was thinking something that fits above pedals but just inside the fire wall. Thanks
  14. Well, thanks for putting it so flippantly I suppose it would be dumb if it were that simple and I could have mentioned that I did check and yes the diff in the 240 is an r180. Just was thrown off by the zhome swap page that says the transverse link mount should be straight in the 240 and mine is curved. Anyway, swap is basically done. still have to run to pick n pull and get the mustache bar. Heres another question (possibly dumb). Does anyone know the compressed and extended lengths of the half shafts from the 280Z (1st gen)? I want to make sure mine are from a 280 (got the on craigslist already pulled) cus they seem to be the same length as the ones I pulled from my 240. i.e. all 4 are the same exact length..? I read that the 2 from the 280 are shorter and different lengths from each other. I'm going to pull another set tomorrow but wanted to check first. Thanks
  15. I am following the R200 swap procedure from Zhome (http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm) and it says I need the rear transverse link mount from an r200 equip 280Z. It shows a view of the mount in a 240Z and it is straight and then a view of the mount in the 280Z and how it is curved to go around the longer r200. I just crawled under my 73 240Z and the mount in my car is curved....?? does this mean I already have the correct mount? did the later years of the 240 come with the curved mount that is in the 280? Also, does this mean I have the correct mustache bar already? I will proceed with swapng the diff and I suppose I will have the answer myself soon enough but wanted to get some knowedge from the pros on this oddity. Thanks
  • Create New...