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About subridersix

  • Birthday 06/19/1956

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  1. I had these same problems on my turbo start up. I ran a wire from my FP to the battery so I knew the pump was running and put a fuel pressure guage in the return line to make sure I had pressure. Car would still only run briefly on starter fluid. Took the hose off the 1/2" warm air injection port and the car would run. Adjusted the AFM for more air and that solved the air issue but I still needed starter fluid to get running. Pulled the injectors, flushed and reinstalled. Running great now. Hope any of this helps. Bob
  2. I'd go to eastwood .com and buy a flanging tool, cut out the hole, flange the perimeter to stiffen the roof and weld in my patch. The flange will let you overlap all the way around without changing the roof line and keep your welds away from the edge so there is much less chance of burning thru.
  3. I've read a lot of controversial things about seafoam. Thanks, I'll check it out
  4. I changed the motor oil with 10W-30 Castrol as soon as I hauled it home. It took me a month to get it running and I probably have a total of 10 minutes run time on it. The second or third time I got it running I let it run at about 1300 rpm for about 5 minutes. Other than that it's been a minute or so at idle while I try to figure my ignition issues. I have NO gauges (donor dash destroyed) so I'm can't tell what oil pressure is. Mechanical gauge should be here today and once I have that I can run the motor long enough to get it up to temperature. My Question: Is there anything I can add to the oil to help clear the turbo bearings? We used to use ATF for that sort of thing. I plan to run this oil thru the first high idle warm up and then change it. Thanks, Bob
  5. Ok, I took the cover off the AFM and found that that the wire clip that holds the gear in position was loose and the gear had loosened 5 teeth. Since that is what I had planned to do anyway I just tightened it back up where I found it. I then installed the Aux Air Valve off my 76 NA motor and plumbed it in. I crossed my fingers, turned the ignition and it started right up! Man I am so stoked, the motor sounds good and idles smoothly at about 800 rpm. I want to thank everyone who offered help and advice. Bob Oh ...anyone got a good turbo AFM cover? Mine didn't survive.
  6. You Know I think both of you are right. The AFM is definitely the most likely culprit. I have removed the aux air valve which is suppose to provide additional air in past the TB for cold starts so....I need to lighten the AFM spring tension a bit to compensate?. I'm having trouble figuring out how to adjust the AFM when I can't drive the car or put any load on the motor. It maybe time to quit screwing around and swap the motor.
  7. I have a 82 zxt donor car I'm tring to get running and I have a question about the turbo. The car has sat for 10 - 15 years. What should a good turbo feel like? I don't have any decernable end play but...when I reach into the compressor outlet and try to spin the blades it seems stiffer than I expected. It only freewheels about 3/4 a revolution . Is this normal?
  8. Thanks for the suggestion but that wasn't it. I'm just not getting enough air. To prove it I removed the J tube between the turbo and the throttle body, wedged open the AFM flap 1/4" to electrically indicate "running" and even with the AFM out of the intake air stream I had the same result. I'm using a temp fuel system so the fuel relay isn't being used (no fuel cutout). I need to let in a lot of extra air either through the aux air port being open or significantly more throttle to keep to motor running. Perhaps the idle air passages in the throttle body are plugged. The other possibility that occurs to me is that the turbo isn't spinning. I don't know what kind of air I ought to be getting out of the turbo at roughly 1500 rpm and no load but with the J pipe removed I put my hand down near the turbo outlet and didn't feel much air flow. I know this much; it's 34 outside, the sun is setting and I've had enough for one day. Thanks for the help. Bob
  9. Update: IT RUNS!! I went ahead and cleaned the injectors with B-12 and used a AA battery pack and an old injector plug to open the injector. I may have had 2 plugged injectors I'm really not sure. Put it all back together and and same old - runs on the starter fluid. Slid a screwdriver through the AFM to open the flap a bit and It almost fired. I don't have the aux air valve installed, I've actually been using that 1/2" tube to spray my starting fluid in. I found that with the AFM partially forced open and with that aux air port open it will fire right up. You need spark / fuel / air to run right. I got my spark issue fixed., finally have fuel and now I have an air problem. It's amazing to me that I actually enjoy this stuff. But hey IT RUNS!
  10. MS has always been part of the plan but I was hoping to do this project in steps.... Donor motor running, swap and wiring, turbo in my 280. Body, interior and paint. THEN MS and performance mods. That being said I am starting to get a little frustrated. This motor runs nicely at idle on starter fluid. Noid lights indicate I have injector pulse. I've now verified fuel supply at 40 psi. AFM, ECU grounds, cylinder and air temps all good by FSM tests. I can't imagine it but I've about decided to pull the injectors; is it possible they are all clogged? I can't do much for the next few days but cogitate. I'll keep those interested posted. I'm hoping somebody can benefit from my fumblings. Bob
  11. Update: I purchased a brand shiny new CAS and BAM! we have spark! The car still won't start but it will run on a steady diet of starting fluid so I'm making progress. The injectors are getting a pulse signal according to my noid light and I'm sure I have adequate fuel at the injectors so I'm baffled at the moment. I've had enough for today but I'll figure it out eventually. I sounds might good for those few seconds! Bob
  12. Update: Purchased a new CAS and that solved the ignition issue, I now have spark!! Squirted a little starting fluid in the intake and got a short VAROOM! and ten pounds of crap blew out of the exhaust. Unfortunately I get nothing without the starting fluid so I figure the injectors aren't firing. I crawl under the dash for several hours and everything checks OK. I finally drive 30 miles to town and rent a noid light set only to find that I've been chasing a problem that I don't have. The injectors are getting a pulse. I'm using a boat fuel tank and my NA FI pump connected directly to the fuel rail so I know I have fuel. With the wife's help I was able to keep it running for 30 seconds or so by continuously feeding starting fluid so the timing is probably reasonable..... I'll figure it out eventually.
  13. Update: I acquired a second 82 turbo distributor, unfortunately when I tested it using the same procedure as I used before it also has a bad CAS. To further test both sensors I removed the plug from the back or the cas to gain access to the blade terminals themselves (eliminating the plug). Using female blade connectors I grounded the case and supplied 12vdc and ground to the correct terminals and again tested for a dc signal out of the cas - no signal. If anyone knows of any further testing I'd be glad to try it but I believe I do in fact have two bad sensors. I hate to spend the money when I eventually want to go with EDIS but I guess my next step is to buy a new CAS. The best price I've found so far is $172 at Napa. In the meanwhile I've started removing some of the auxiliary components out of the engine compartment to make life easier when It's time to pull the motor. A question for the turbo folks out there. I'd like to run an early intake manifold I have, deleting most of the clutter; The only device I'm considering keeping is the aux air valve for cold starting. The question - Do I need it to start on 20 degree (Texas) mornings and is it used to increase idle speeds when the a/c is running? Here in Texas the turbo is nice but the a/c is essential. Bob
  14. Hey Bryce I'm just getting started doing the turbo swap you are planning in my 76 280. My donor car hasn't run in ten years and I'm currently hung up by ignition problems with it. My 76 was running, until I pulled the engine and transmission this morning. Over the next few weeks I plan to work on cleaning up the 76's engine compartment while continuing the battle with getting the donor up and running. Like you, I want the donor running before I start the swap. Good luck and keep in touch, maybe we can give each other a push in the right direction occasionally. Bob
  15. Thank You, I appreciate the information. Using the 76 diz would just be a stopgap measure to get this turbo motor to fire. I know the mechanicals are good I'm trying to get a handle on the ign and FI and the lack of a trigger signal has all progress stopped on both fronts. Thanks again.
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