240ZRX

A while back I wrote about a situation i was having where the car would just act like it was running out of fuel and would just stop runnint. You could hear the pump run (at times) and at times it would not, but either way there would be no fuel to carb. I had a lot of work done on car to engine over the winter, so I thought maybe this was causing pump to lose its' prime. what I did that seemd to cure things was to relocate the pickup line from the original 240Z spot to the drain plug hole. Now there is plenty of fuel flowing to carb and car runs great. I figure that with the extra power from the engine this location better feds fuel to pump since it is lowest point on tank and gravity adds the extra bump.

When this situation happens I am able to go under the car and both hear and feel the pump. Now tonite I took it out for a ride around the area (3-4 miles) all types of driving situations and the car had no problems at all. so let me run this by anyone and see if it makes sense. originally the car had a fairly stock 350/600Edelbrock/small Crane fireball cam. with this set up there was never any fuel problem (welborn pump) over the winter i had head/cam/lifters/complete MSD box/distributor installed. I also had a 750 edelbrock carb and high rise air gap intake installed. could this new set up have been to much for the way the pump was set (high) and that it was drawing from the original fuel outlet pipe which is set high on tank and draws fuel from bottom of tank up to the outlet. could it not have been supplying enough fuel. now that I lowered the fuel pickup to the tank drain hole I am figuring in this position fuel flows easier with a better volume to the pump. Could that be a good guess??? HUH!

Okay the lines are 3/8" all the way. I have two filters a small inline on the suction side and a spin off type between the pump and carb. Both are clean as a whistle and there is no debris in canister. with the line coming from the drain hole in the tank, the pick up port on the pump is about 1" higher than the tank outlet. Highway driving is 70-75 and when I do gas it up there is never any hesitation. it only happens when I am at a constant cruise speed 50-65. Pump sometimes shuts of altogether (stops running) checked all wires/ground/voltage all is good.

The pump (holley and welborn) did two things. They would just drops fuel pressure and then at times it stops all together. The welborn pump I hooked up to a battery and it spun like a clock extremely smooth, but intially on the car it also did not deliver fuel while on the highway. both pumps would at times completely stop,. I thought they might be overheating and shutting down, but both pumps when this happens are cool to the touch. Also with the pump on there was no fuel pressure to the gage when this condition happens (even though you can hear pump running) The only thing I can think is that the stock pick up tube on the 240 tank was too much of a draw for both pumps (even though the pump was mounted as high as top of pick up tube. That is why i now have pick up line coming out from drain hole. Just getting expensive to pay 45.00 everytime I have to be towed.... Pressure at gage is 6lbs constant. Am running an Edelbrock 750, so the pressure is high already for that carb.

I have a situation on my 72 240Z/355SBC where the fuel pump gradually stops pumping fuel. It is a Holley 125 Black pump. original pump was a Welborn in line that I ran with a bypass regulator. the car will run all day around town, but when I go on the high way it basically runs out of fuel and stops. here is what i have done to date. - Drained tank/fuel is clean nothing at all/tank was treated and lined/gas tank renu. - All vent lines on tank not crimped/fuel line to pump is good/fuel filter not clogged. - originally pump was drawing from stock location on the 240Z tank(72) - I am now drawing fuel from the drain plug hole (sort of a more gravity type set up) have not run car on highway since this change, so i do not know if this was the cure. - Am presently running a toggle switch from the battery thru a fuse, and temporarily by passing the relay. (car did same thing with relay hooked up or bypassed) - Even drilled vent holes in fuel cap, but pump still stalled out. i am running out of fixes so any suggestions will be helpful.

i just bought the PDK fabrication front/reat strut braces setup. I heard good things about them and i needed something solid to tie in the front/back chasis of my 72 240Z 355/SBC. does anyone have the setup or know how good they are.

I recently installed a 5" tach with rev lite in my 72Z SBC. I also have the stock tach working along with the new tach. problem is the new tach (APC make) is 500 rpm off at idle, and as much as 1000rpm at higher reps. While the stock tach runs well. So, what is the problem. I have the tach lead wire from new tach attched to + side of coil. If I wanted to get rid of the stock tach how would I hook up the new tach to the cars existing tach wires. If I wanted to get rid of the stoc

What boosters are interchangable with the 72Z unit. The serach option gave alot of other info. Would a 280 booster unit fit. Also on the 280 unit there is a single and double diaphram model (10"dia and a 8" dia) which is which

Now I had to pull the dip stic tube out of block as I was pulling the block hugger headers. I wrapped the headers, bolted them up, and installed the dipstick tube into the block and bolted the tube bracket to the header flange. Now I am experiencing smoke from that area. At first I thought it was the wrap smoking but where the tube goes into the block seems to be where the smoke is coming from. How do you keep the tube from leaking after you insert it.

After going through the search and finding good info about the ford solenoid install I have one last question. I have a mini starter one the car (don't know which one can't see a name and I do not want to take the damn thing out) is the "S" terminal on all GM/Chevy Mini solenoids the one nearest the block. I bought the "Painless solenoid kit and I do not want to screw up. I am getting tired of laying on my back under the car. Also where would a good place to mount a heat shield that would go between the starter and the header/collector pipe. I just want to end this heat soak garbage and enjoy the car. also, one of the connectors on the solenoid is a spade type (middle one) other two are post connectors.

Yes it is a worthless non-bypass regulator. But it has 2 outlet ports, couldn't I run the return from the extra outlet port back to the tank Y/N? Wouldn't that do the trick.

I bought an electric fuel pump from Summit for my SBC/600edelbrock carb The pump was a Holley inline Pro-jection pump pushing 15lbs. Tech said it could be used as long as it had a regulator to cut down pressure to 4-6lbs. Trouble is that pressure on fuel presure gauge fluctuates between 3-6 bounces up/down, and when the ingition is turned off, the pressure on the gauge builds to 9lbs. At times it does not register pressure right away. Although the car runs well, the revs just do not seem smooth. Should I just switch to a lower pressure pump 5-7lbs and ditch the higher pressure pump.

Where is the best place to mount the fuel pump. I am using the stock 240Z tank, and want to know where the best place to mount the pump. Also the tank has just been the Tank Re-Nu route so will I have to install a filter between tank and pump. Search had nothing on subject.

I have looked in search and could not find anything, so here goes. Tank is rusty, how do you use Muric Acid to clean the crude out. Do I have to use a sealer, or should I just use the good old gasoline swish around and dump, until the gas is clear.

I have a set of Dynomax block hugger headers with the JTR conversion setup. I want to switch to a long tube header. Any suggestions on what type to use?