78 280zcar

Thanks MAC510, thats the setting I needed, I cant really start the car as I broke the bolts off into the bottom thermostat housing and had to order another one from motorsport. But, I set the pulley at 10 degrees BTC and turn the dist housing to point at the #1 spark plug wire, do I have it right?

Naviathan, I have the haynes manual, the chilton and the how to rebuild nissan datsun book. Z-ya I have been through all of that, I just went ahead and rotated the distributor drive shaft a few degrees counterclockwise and instead of it being at 11:25, it is now lined up perfectly with the bolt holes on the distributor adaptor and the dist. plate now lines up with the mounting bolt hole:mrgreen: .

I think I will just have to turn the drive gear counterclockwise a couple of notches. Yep screw the book. Thanks guys

OK, the camshaft sprocket is lined up with the mark on the locating plate and the engine is at TC, the distributor gear is at 11:25 like the book says. The plate on the dist. that mounts to the engine will not line up with the mounting hole, the plate is as far as it wants to go (per the 5mm bolt on the bottom), when I have the rotor pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. I am not trying to do something else, I just want it right like the how to rebuild nissan datsun OHC engine book says:shock:. I was hoping to adjust the static timing so that maybe the hole will line up after adjusting to static timing. Thanks

Thats what I mean in my message is that the plate is adjusted as far as it will go! And the mounting bolt will not go in, (as in the plate is covering the mounting hole) when the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire.

I posted this on classiczcar.com. Anyone know how to set the static timing on a 280z 78. I have everything in the right spot but the rotor is not lining up with the #1 spark. I had this problem before when I was putting the distributor in and I just turned the distributor drive gear two notches counterclockwise but I want it right this time. I have the drive gear perfect but when the distributor is in, the plate doesnt line up with the locking screw hole and the plate is turned as far as it will go, what do I do. I was hoping if I just adjust static before starting the engine I could get it to fit in. Also there is a mark on the distributor cap, does this indicate #1?

I got a set of perfect circle piston rings and was wondering about the wavy oil ring. Do I have to measure end gap on that or just slap it on the piston and put the other rings over it? I already installed them but I want to make sure before I put the oil pan on. When I turn the crankshaft it sounds as if the wavy oil ring is scrapping on the sides of the cylinder wall:shock: ! What to do now? Or is that normal?

How big are those holes and what size tap and plugs should I use. I found these plugs on ebay they also have 1/2" plugs! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moroso-Pipe-Plugs-3-8-NPT-Chrome-Plated-39152_W0QQitemZ8045861047QQcategoryZ46098QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Let me know what happens with the deves rings, I wanted to get cast iron rings in the first place, its just a matter of money! How much do those rings run for?

Yes that is what I said, there is no coolant holes on the block to match up for the two extra holes on the head. maybe I should just take it to a machine shop and see what they can do!

I would like to know what you will do too, I just bought the same set of perfect circle (41577) rings with the weird oil ring on it, I have the same problem but it is not that much of a gap. I just went ahead and put them in! Only the top ring is chrome, right?

Now that is something I have never done to a head. Wouldnt a pipe plug block the coolant flow though? And cant I just put the gasket on and the coolant should just pass to the next hole? Hopefully!

I dont have an F54 block though that actually has the extra passage in it, I am using an N42 block that doesnt have the passage! I am using an N42 with a P79 head! Do I still need to break a hole in the head gasket if there is no hole in the block?

Also do I have to get different spark plugs, I have NGK spark plugs for a 78 do I have to get them for an 81-83 ZX? Thanks

Right on so it is suppose to be that way! I thought I would have to end up getting an F54 block. About the coolant holes I know there is one extra coolant passage in the P79 head and I wasnt to sure about what gasket to get, the extra hole should be plugged up by the head gasket if there is no hole in the block for it, right?. Is there a difference in the thickness of the 81, 82 and 78 head gaskets?

I posted this on classiczcars but need somemore opinions. I just yesterday put flat top pistons from an F54 block into my N42 block. The pistons go over the deck about .021", is this normally how the F54 has them in there, I am going to put a P79 head on it that has not been shaved or anything like that! Also which year head gasket should I buy, 81 zx or 78 Z?

I figured it out. Thanks anyways. Does anyone know what kind of horsepower I will have with this setup, all stock except throttle body upgrade and JSK fuel rail(which is not an upgrade). I know the P79 isnt a very good head, but I paid a total of 240.00 for both the head and the pistons and rods

OK, I have an N42 block and getting ready to put a P79 head on it because my N47 was cracked and I just bought some flat top pistons. The guy I bought them off of said that they are from an 80' F54 block, but from my understanding is that they only had the F54 block in the 81-83 zx's, but I am trying to figure out what year zx to get the rings for , or will 78 rings work, they are standard pistons it looks like the first ring groove is 1.5mm, the second groove is 2.0mm and the oil groove is 4.0mm. The first ring groove is suppose to be 2.0mm, that is what the how to rebuild nissan/datsun book says but they say P79 on the top of the pistons:shock: . Please help

I was thinking about doing that mod he has on this page http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html I already have three heads for the valve spring shims and the longer valves from the N47, all I need is more tower shims and to shave the head .080. It says with dished pistons it will bring my compression to low 9's. I know it is little change but it would only cost me about $60.00 to do. Anyone ever done this mod?

I was just wondering that wouldnt the D shaped recesses in the P79 make up for the change in compression, because the N47 has round recesses?

I already have a set of cam tower shims coming that will be here tomorrow at .015in. How much would have to be milled, what if I just shaved it .015 and put the shims on would that work? Or how about I just beat on it like that guy. LOL

So I pretty much F--ked up when I bought this head:( . I dont want to have to buy flat top pistons because of this head, any other cheaper way I can bring compression back up with the P79 head?

I forgot to mention that I have an N42 block and stock domed pistons

OK, I originally had an N47 head on my 78, but it was in bad shape. I came across a P79 head for 125.00 rebuilt from a machine shop, so I bought it. What kind of compression changes am I looking at and does this type head really need flat tops to run normal compression. Thanks

I would just like to say hello, this is the first time I have posted on this site. I am having the same problem with my 78 after the throttle body upgrade and rebuilding the whole engine, only to have to take the head off again. I am thinking I may have to shim the towers or get bigger cc injectors. But let me know how the injector upgrade works for you.