eugene

Thanks for the responses. Has anyone rigged up trans cooler lines? I know most of you guys (ya'll) use a manual trans.

I am trying to collect everything I need for my conversion before I disable my spare car for lord knows how long. My 75 280 is getting a stock 350 with 700R4 per JTR. Just trying to iron out some specifics. 1: What type of fittings do I need to make trans cooler lines for the Camaro Aluminum/Plastic radiator? It looks like I could just use 3/8 NPT hose barbs on the trans side, but at the radiator the fittings have some sort of flared fitting? 2: Bought a great Holley book by Dave Emanuel on Amazon, everything I needed to know except fuel pressure requirements. JTR says use a slightly higher pressure. Would 10 to 14 psi be adequate? Summit has a 14 psi, 110 gph pump with regulator for 90 bucks! 3: Used the search string to find info on 700R4 TV cable adjustment, still not really clear. Most people say let a trans shop handle it, but I'd rather learn how to do it myself. Can anyone recommend a good source for this info? Read some pretty nasty stuff can happen if the cable is out of whack! Sorry, that's a lot of questions, but I really want to do it right the first time, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Definitely sounds like it's not timed right if you have normal starter operation with ignition disabled. Here is yet another, but sure fire way to find TDC comp #1. Remove #1 plug (this method is even easier with all plugs removed). Put compressed air in #1 hole and rotate engine clockwise until it stops turning. When it becomes too difficult to turn, this means that #1 piston is starting to rise on compression stroke. Now remove the air and rotate until timing tabs are where you want them.

The threads on the tie rod end are right hand. You can always tell by looking at the slope of the threads. The nut has to follow the slope of the threads to be taken off, so just turn the nut in that direction. Hope that made sense. Put a big, giant long piece of pipe of your ratchet, then it'll have no choice but to come loose. If it's really rusted in there, try PB Blaster(much more effective penetrant than WD-40).

I just got a Taurus fan from the junkyard. It was from a '95 wagon, a single speed model(two wires). I set it on top of the Camaro aluminum/plastic radiator and it looks like very minor shroud trimming to get a great fit. Check a junkyard if you have time, the one I went to had loads of Fords. Price of fan assy: $45.00. Find a low miles car and spin the fan to check the bearing. Also, try to wiggle the fan to check for any play in the motor, mine has no detectable fore/aft movement. I wonder though if the two speed fan would be better? Does anybody know if the two speed fan pulls more CFM than the single speed, or if it just has a low speed?? That's my 2 cents.

Looking through Jeg's I noticed some starters advertised that say they can be used with the 153 or 168 tooth flywheel. The JTR book implies that certain starters are for ceratain flywheels. I already have the 168 tooth flywheel and need a starter. Could I use any of the recommended ones for the 153 tooth flywheel as well? God, I wish I had bought a whole car to do this conversion!!!

It sounds like from the phrasing of your question that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. The very first thing I'd try is to tap on the solenoid while someone else holds the key in the start position. Solenoid may be sticking, very common. It's also a quick test!

Still having difficulty finding a reasonably priced 700R4 tailhousing with rear mount location. What about this: weld another piece of 3/8" steel perpendicular to the JTR crossmember. This would allow the crossmember to be positioned far back enough to use the "humps" for exhaust clearance. I figure the difference in mount locations is only about 4 inches or so? I can't imagine you'd have any problems with the crossmember flexing, and it'd be a hole lot cheaper than buying the part from a dealer! What do you guys think? Is this doable? Has it already been done? This is also making me think of something else. What about the hood latch? After drilling out the spot welds, couldn't you just move the latch over a bit to allow HEI clearance, then just move the catch over to match the latch? Any opinions?

Thanks Les. I live in the Stone Mountain area. My email address is bethandjason@earthlink.net if you wanna go that route.

Yeah, I guess a transmission shop is the place to look. I've tried several with no luck. I guess I'll keep tryin. Thanks!

Oh yeah, I forgot, what about lockup control for the 700R4? The JTR book doesn't mention this, but I'm sure it needs attention.

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! This is taking forever! Looks like another couple of months and I'll have a stock 350 in my '75 280. This forum has been very helpful, but I can't find all my answers in the JTR book. Hopefully these questions have simple answers: 1. Is there an alternate way to use the stock Datsun water temperatre gauge? I can't find a 16 x 1.5P tap for under $100.00! 2. Does anyone know a spec. for distrubitor shaft endplay? 3. Are there any other tailhousings I can use other than the Caprice model for my 700R4? I have heard some truck's have the trans mount in the same location. 4. Recommendations for a good Holley manual? I'm a Nissan dealer tech schooled in fuel injection, I haven't played with many carbs? I've got a 650 vac. sec. that needs built. It will sit on an edelbrock performer between stock 75cc cast heads on a stock 350 4 bolt. I guess I would like suggestions for a good carb rebuild kit, as well. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!! Also, feel free to ask any Nissan specific questions. I have access to ASSIST(Nissan's tech database) and could possibly help somewhere.

I recently purchased a 350 which was supposedly from an early 70s vette; however, i am having difficulty verifying this. The stamp on the block in front of the pass. cylinder head reads V0204TZX. So far, I have learned that "V" means it was cast in Flint Michigan, "0204" means Feb. 4th, and TZX is the suffix code which describes the blocks application(what vehicle it was used for). I have found several lists of suffix codes at various sites online, but none of these lists contain the suffix "TZX". This info would be very helpful for determining hp, torque, fuel management, etc. I am trying to build a V8 280 for power and driveability, so I would like to keep the engine stock, and match all other components to it. Any info on suffix codes would be greatly appreciated!