KoolMan

Thanks for the replys. I wouldn't mind driving down to SD for the spoiler. But it would probably just come out to the same amount if i get it from motorsports. So i ordered one from them already. The air dam I'm looking for the fiberglass one. Thanks

I would like to buy both of these. BRE Spoiler http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-1527 Type 1 Air Dam http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-1402 They are both out of stock right now Im located in SoCal Let me know. Thanks EDIT I got a spoiler already im looking for the air dam now Thanks

at a later time yes ill end up changing the wheels. but for now could i run the 14" mag wheels?

I have been thinking of doing the Toyota 4 piston front calipers upgrade on my z for a while now. I've been searching around for a while and have found different answers. Some say yes with the S12+8(solid rotors), S12W(slotted rotors) needs the spacers and other just say to go with a bigger wheel 15" or 16" to avoid other problems. I like the Mag wheels that are on my z so really dont what to change them But if I have to I would like to get the 280zx 15" wheels. What do you guys think?

Hello, I have done the E12-80 Distributor upgrade withe the MSD Blaster 2 my z has been running great after the upgrade. Since the upgrade I have been running my z without the tach it hasn't worked since I did the upgrade. Anyway I'm trying to figure out how the wiring goes. I have been reading up on it but I think my problem is that I don't remember which wires are the ones that go to the resistor(removed after upgrade) I uploaded a picture of my setup. I have a Connected the E12-80 to the coil and found the current wire and connected it since I did not have the tach I did not do anything else with the rest of the wires. I have four wires 3 are not connected right now. A) Was connected to the coil with the points distributor. Green/White and the other is black with yellow tip thicker cable B ) Was connected to the resistor. the cable one is black/yellow and the other is black. C) Added for the E12-80 distributor The only way that I can get the Z to start is to connect the (pic B ) black wire to the coil all others don't work. I have a four cable tach on my z and just got a 280z tach that ill be putting in. But I still have a question about this. On the tach I moved everything to the other 240z housing but I still dont understand what I'm suppose to do with the white/loop cable that has the black and read tape on each side. I know that the black wire moved from the top (240z tach) to the bottom (280z tach) Thanks. KM

I have always liked the carbs. The 151 have been on a z before so I'm assuming they should be good to go. I have read the electronic conversion I would need the e12-80 distributor or get the module. Would there be a difference of using the moudule or the distributor from a 280zx Is the 151 @ $1000 a good price?

So im debating whether to get the Weber.... i currently have the SU carbs on my L28 and they are misfiring like crazy its 300 to get them rebuilt my thought is that if i would be spending money on rebuilding might as well get the Webers the guy im getting them from wants $1000 but dont know if its a good deal. it would be another 450 to get them rebuilt. there's some other webers 40 DCOE 18 for $700 what do you guys i should do? let me know.

i have a 280zx the ignition had gotten stuck about a month ago on the acc and ended up turning the key all the way around past the START going all the way around and that seemed to fix it. the ignition got stuck on the ON yesterday and now will not let me turn the car off. its manual so i put it in gear and take the clutch out and it turns off (which i do not like doing.) i took the car to a lock smith and they said the key was in good condition but they did not work on the actual car. so they send me to some other place and they said it would be the tumbler that needs to be replaced. i was thinking of going to the junk yard and getting an ignition from another 280zx and getting the locksmith to make a key for me. the only problem that i see is that two of the 4 screws dont have a head they are shaved off for anti-theft. im thinking i can take the steering wheel off and all the thing and have it come off from the top. in the mean while is there a way to setup a switch to turn it off for the time being? or will i have to keep doing the clutch thing. since im going to get someone to make a key for the ignition made can i get a 300zx ignition instead? I had already bought the keys for the later models of the 280zx which fit the 300zx too ( the ones that look like a D) ignition at the junk yard would be 15$ +the key that they guy will make. the mechanic said it would be 30$ for the tumbler and 100 for labor i dont want to pay that much. let me know what ideas you guys come up with Thanks