evo420

this guy hit the nail on the head!!

sorry man i wish i could help but i cant do body work or paint without a booth... i'll help ya with anyway i can tho. but to answer your question i am in very north fla around live oak if ya know were that is...

+1 on that one....people painting over old crappy paint has made me alot of money!

if i were you as long as it's surface rust you can loose the navel jelly. just sand down to metal and hit etching primer on it. you can't leave it primer for long a week to a month is fine but primer can't take the u.v. exposure and will start to dry out and crack. what i did on my truck was got a H F grinder and a few 90 grit flap wheels (the guy house painted my truck to hide rust ( ) and then just hit it with some rubberized undercoat it's ok to sand and paint so you can top coat right over it. its been through rain a few times and no rust. another thing you might wanna look into is eastwood rust converter and rust encapsulater. you wont need such a agressive flap wheel if you try that maybe start with 180 grit and go up. and remember when doing body work the human eye can see 180 grit scratches so work up to finer sand paper to get rid of them

ok i didn't read this lol....probably just a air bubble in the system somewhere in the cooler

you have to look at things that affect all the gears ie converter,fluid level,pump,pressure issue. how many bands are in a 700r i don't think it would be apply bands because it's affecting everything not just those associated with a slipping planetary gear set. have you changed the fluid and filter recently?? we had a mail truck come in. it was a 07 jeep it needed 17 quarts of atf+4 (stank stuff) but anyway it was so wore out we t-teched the new fluid in and it was slipping so bad it couldn't pull off the rack...maybe a broke shifter cable inside the sleeve. That's why i love manuals it's alot easier to diagnose

dont the shim kits just raise the pressure at above idle not at idle. i would hate to trash my new bearings... so i just need thicker oil now

more pic for ya....i gotta run get some bolts for the cam towers but she is moving along nicely. still gotta time it and put the rockers in.

what oil should i run in this thing??? I know I need something with zddp but what weight oil do i need???

I need a square port header!!!!!! anyone????

aint a 7m all aluminum tho?? i heard that it was something to do with the iron block and aluminum head with the diff expansion rates that causes probs when copper coating a gasket. but then again he is one of those mechanics that if they aint involved they get all pissy and try to mind screw ya to waste time. He has done it to me multiple times to the point i dont want to listen to him but he dose have 30 years experience on me

i was going to ask what does anyone think of copper coating head gaskets?? yes or no

i been workin on it today and i can say the stock head gasket looks exactly like the one i got from rock auto. it's a beck arnley gasket. so for 8 bucks you really can't beat it. i was thinkin about copper coating it before i install tomorrow. my rod bolts and head studs came in today... i will post up some pics of it tomorrow after i get done torque-in her down and maybe we can get some motor mount fab goin on

baked on at 350 for one hour after the part reached target temp. i went all out on coating the pistons because i got them for 16$ bucks without a wrist pin. i had a few laying around and some extra cash so i got a toaster oven off ebay and took it from there. they are some really good coatings just be sure to pre-bake and clean old parts or just clean new parts with acetone. The dry film lube will buff off with time from friction but it will be baked into the metal and stay around for a while.

well i went out and got a beck head gasket. i will have to wait till tomorrow to see if it will work. one day my arp connecting rod bolts will get here and my crank will get polished and then i will be ready to assemble my short block!!!!