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Perhaps something flammable got on the cap, and arcing caught it on fire. I'd check VERY carefully for gasoline leaks, especially around the cold-start injector, as those hoses/connections frequently get overlooked. What does it look like under the distributor cap? Was the fire just on the outside surface?

I thought this is what ended up happening to Joey's old LS1 Z... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/75010-warning-these-pictures-may-contain-material-very-disturbing-to-some-people

Hmm, that is rather new. My furnace is from the early 30s, and hadn't been cleaned as far back as I can remember, over 15 years. Your burner could be slightly plugged if there was any debris in the line, such as a piece of thread sealing tape that broke loose, or ash/food residue got on it. It's worth a shot, can't hurt anything.

You most likely need to clean the jets and air passage ways. Use compressed air to blow out the holes the gas comes out of, and a shop-vac to catch the dust. You'll have to re-adjust the air shutter after you do this. I had to do the same thing to my furnace, and the flame changed completely and now burns evenly. Keep in mind when you put the cover back on (I'll presume you have the cover off the see the flame to adjust it) it will change the airflow, so you may need to open the shutter slightly more than the ideal setting with the cover off. -Eric

And he's a nice guy to boot! Easy to tell when he's coming, his turbo's exhaust has a 'unique' sound.

We could use these on Z31s that are either lowered or just plain worn out and sagging so we don't have to slot the sub-frames or install camber plates.

I second the notion of Johnny Walker Black, I'm a big fan. For sweeter nights Crown Royal is nice, while any Glenfiddich is a good place to start out with single malts. If you want to find a good place to sample some scotch, walk in to a harbor bar. Sailors like their scotches and blended whiskys. The bars I'm most fond of (one in particular at the harbor) all have at least six really top notch scotches.

I already changed the fluid. I need to put the transmission's computer in fast learn mode to have it shift properly with a newly clean valve body, and that requires dealer only computer tools. Same thing with the ABS light, dealer only computer access, even Snap-On readers don't do it.

That's why they call it high art. You have to be high to appreciate it.

I need a transmission service and an ABS code pulled on my van. It's hardly a 10 minute job, and the cheapest dealer I've found wants 70$ to do it. Unless anyone in the bay area knows someone with a DRB III scanner...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Room-temperature_vulcanization Basically, your every-day rubberized adhesive sealant. I've found the black permatex RTV gasket maker to be great stuff, if a little hard when it dries. The black silicone adhesive is really nice too, stays softer when cured, and seals gaps great. It does take quite some time (24+ hours) to cure though. The absolute best I've found for silicone sealant is the clear marine grade silicone sealant. I belive it's the red tube I like so much, I'd have to go down to the boat and check to be sure. It's UV proof, waterproof, very thick, and sticks to anything. I use it under bolt heads and on threads when I do any though-hull work and I've never had one leak. You will need to go to a marine supply store such as West Marine to get it. What the marine silicone won't do is stick two things together and seal up or tolerate movement. It's quite forgiving though, when you need to take something back appart. Just rub your fingers over it and the stuff balls up and comes right off. For how well it seals, it's amazing how easy it is to work with. To re-seal my t-top gaskets, I used black rtv gasket maker. For my taillights, black silicone. For an antanna hole that seeps, clear marine adhesive. For a large gap, I've used household foam weatherstip and sealed the edges with silicone. They all work slightly different. I must have over 70$ worth of little tubes down on my tool box, every color and purpose. Just remember to clean surfaces really well, to the point you'd feel good licking it, I've had leaks caused by minute amounts of dirt. If you do need to seal under a piece of existing weather stripping, you pretty much need to take the entire piece off, clean it, and completely re-seal. There's really no way to seal the little spot in between where you stopped peeling it up and started laying down goop.

I picked them up on NOAA Weather Radio, CH1, 162.400 Mhz. Better than your average weather report. We are having high surf advisories right now till midnight, and they mean it when they say it. Small craft advisories too, but mostly off the coast. Tornado warnings were for Santa Clara County which really surprised me. Last year we had them up in Napa county, and I think one actually touched ground. Who's putting those tags on this thread? Does the BBS software have a sense of humor?

Am I the only one in Oakland with non-leaking Z cars? I have several tubes of RTV to thank for that. It wasn't the hurricane warnings that worried me, it was the tornado warnings that made me do a double-take. Try spraying separate areas of your car with a hose while someone inside is looking for dripping. That should help you narrow down where the leak(s) is/are. Remember, water doesn't just run down, but it can run sideways in ways and distances you may not expect.

Why is it called a driving rain? I hate going out in that weather. Where did the term "Drive it like you stole it" originate? If I were driving a stolen car, I certainly wouldn't do anything to attract attention. Now, drive it like it's a rental, that's a phrase I could live up to.

I do say. Check out the last paragraph. http://www.theregister.co.uk/2010/01/18/shuttle_sale/

I heard they're giving the engines away for free, just pay shipping. I should get one for my uncle, it wouldn't look out of place in his back yard.

I know what tin whistles are made of, but what about fog horns? Or Girl Scout Cookies?

A bus station is where the bus stops. A train station is where the train stops. At work I have a work station...

When you get the engine back in, take a look at your driveline angles. That would kind of dictate where your shifter will end up. That transmission mount does look a bit off, like it wasn't bent enough, with the curves ending up too wide against the rails and the mount protruding too low. -Eric

Check the socket and pins on the power/speaker/etc connector. Corrosion there will certainly keep it from powering on. Also check any fuses and sockets. Most diagnostics after that would require tracing circuits and in-depth understanding of electronics. I've even given up on that since these days everything is controlled by specialized chips you have no chance of repairing and little chance of replacing, that is IF you can even find a replacement.

Rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. Not yours, use a spare tooth brush. Basically any mild solvent that will evaporate without leaving a residue. The stereo may be too far gone to fix though, cleaning it up won't likely get it going. You can check for any loose solder joints that corrosion ate its way in to and touch those us, but odds are there's another blown out part that isn't obvious from the outside. Be careful using even a toothbrush (get a soft-bristled one) around surface-mount components, as it's quite easy to knock them off if they weren't soldered well to start with. Clean it up over lots of newspaper on a table, so you can't loose any small (and I mean SMALL) parts. Take off the heatsink (the rear panel) if you can easily, and very gently wiggle the power amps (the vertical chips, one being under the fan in the second picture, the other next to it on the left) to see if they're firmly connected to their pins on the board. If those chips go out they'll sometimes have a pin or two loose. Good luck -Eric

Trust me, give the car a GOOD check out BEFORE you put another dime in to it. Bent/warped frames are not easily fixed. If you're going to fix it, it MUST be fixed right, or you'll just have issue upon issue. Welded rear ends really are no good on the street, especially in the rain.

I dunno. I'm here in bed with a pretty bad cold. Did you get it towed already? When did you weld your diff?

Before you spend any money on anything, including towing, take Dan's advice and do some serious measuring under the car. Check the FSM for what measurements should be, and make EXTRA sure the diagonal measurements are the same. There can be a lot of chassis warping before it becomes visible. It doesn't take much damage to make it impossible to ever get the wheels back in alignment.

The 52 is quite nice. My family has as flatbed model with a winch right behind the cab run off the PTO. I swear that old 1bbl flathead v8 is the most reliable thing on the farm, still a working truck. jmead - are you using an AC or DC motor for the build?