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About eec564

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    X35 IARO

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    Bay Area, CA

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  1. eec564

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    I've never had any luck removing roller pilot bearings with grease. The last one I removed, I ended up making a puller to do it, worked great as the bearing was rusted in and took a ton of force to remove. The idea is to cut a nut so it catches on the back of the inner race, and you can use a bolt bottomed out on the crankshaft to pull the nut out along with the bearing. From the misc. parts bin, I found a nut that was ever so slightly too large to fit in the center hole, then ground off the points to make it round and so it fits inside the bearing and can get behind the inner race. I then notched the nut on the grinder so 1/4 of it was cut off, one half of the top later. I squared off the cut and slightly rounded the cut with a hand file. The idea is that the cut on the nut catches on the bearing and keeps the nut from rotating when you turn the bolt. Thread the nut on to a nice long bolt, insert the entire assembly so the nut ledge catches on the inner race, jam an allen wrench or similar next to the nut and jam it in place so it doesn't simply slip back out through the hole, and use a large pair of pliers to keep the entire thing from spinning, then crank away on the bolt! The grinding may mess the threads up, I used a tap to clean things up, but you may be able to thread the bolt in from the un-cut side to clean things up, then turn the nut around. -Eric
  2. eec564

    What killed my transmission?

    Oddly enough, this thread is still very relevant. I ended up changing to full-synthetic fluid and all noise went away. Then three weeks ago, all of a sudden, there was a clunk while I was parking and first and reverse don't first or reverse any more. Other gears still work, but I've got her parked while looking for a transmission that doesn't cost more than I paid for the car in the first place.
  3. Post go here: And... Fixed Double fixed.
  4. Looks like it's just going to be my GF and I, my friend has to work. I'll be bringing my usual compliment of lawn chairs and will see about some sodas and paper towels. -Eric
  5. Looking to by a 5-speed transmission for a non-turbo first-gen 300ZX. Any FS5W71C for a Z31 should work fine. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, Oakland specifically, but can drive around. -Eric
  6. Congratulations Nathan! I'm in! Should be me plus two, just one Z though.
  7. Your car isn't toast, it is a car. When your car pops up all browned and crunchy, ready for butter, you should suspect it's toast. Get the factory service manual for the car, read it, love it. Especially the parts about the front suspension. Take a look at the TC rod, also called the strut rod. It should be securely bolted to the rear of the wheel well, and to the front suspension. If the nut on the back of it falls of, the rod breaks, or the sheet metal it normally attaches to rips out, it could cause the wheel to move forward. Definitely get under the car and take a GOOD look around, a real sanity check, but be EXTRA careful under it, as if you suspect suspension parts are loose, jacking/holding points that normally would/should be solid will not be.
  8. eec564

    You know, I'm not threatened by these guys

    I'd like to see how they'd fare against a belt-fed machine gun that fires flaming chainsaws.
  9. eec564

    Train-wreck from under the hood

    Couldn't one just check the timing on the car? If the damper were slipping around the hub, the mark would be WAY off, and moving while the squealing it happening.
  10. eec564

    Scotch Drinkers Unite: Your Favorites

    I came across this in my various travels through the web. I wouldn't take it as writ, but it's an interesting opinion read. Names quite a few nice single malts to give you a good starting list. http://www.charm.net/~kmarsh/scotch.html -Eric
  11. eec564

    Train-wreck from under the hood

    Are you sure? In what way?
  12. eec564

    Train-wreck from under the hood

    I second the alternator belt slipping theory. The Z31s seem to want more tension in the alternator belt than even called for in the manual to not slip when under a heavy electrical load. It's a rather tiny belt, and the alternator can load the contact area really hard, there's not a lot of wrap around the pulley so it can slip fairly easily. Most newer cars have idler pulleys to wrap the belt around at least 50% of the alternator pulley. It makes sense to have more slippage in cold weather or with any additional electrical loads, as your battery voltage will drop and want more of a boost to bring back the power you used to start the car. The voltage doesn't seem to drop as the alternator is putting out enough power, it's just working extra hard and is having trouble stealing enough power from the belt to keep up.
  13. eec564

    Member Photo Albums

    The default category is "HybridZ Cars", so that does need to be changed when posting from the Gallery tab in the User CP.
  14. eec564

    Member Photo Albums

    Under "Category" below Album Description, choose "Members Albums". That works for me. I also had the "Public Album" box checked. -Eric