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About eec564

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 05/22/1983

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    X35 IARO

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    Bay Area, CA

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  1. I'll let the wheels go for $75 if someone can pick them up tomorrow. I believe I can find a set of lug nuts to go with them as well.
  2. Fiberglass 2+2 rear wing/spoiler. Bolts to the rear hatch, from MSA in the early 2000s, pretty sure it's this https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a02e/50-1595 Asking $80
  3. Louver #2 - Mounts with a small hole for a pin hinge at the top and a flat-head locking screw at the bottom - $50 Gone
  4. Louver #1 - Mounts from a flat hinged piece at the top and a sliding latch at the bottom. $50 - Gone
  5. I'm moving, so up for sale is a bunch of my Z-parts collection. I'm in Montara (94037), pickup only please. From a 1981 280ZX that was parted out, everything worked perfectly when pulled. Energy suspension polyurethane sway bar bushings and end links, front and rear, brand new - $40 $30 Brake booster - $20 $10 Rear brake calipers with brand new pads - $40 $20 Gauge cluster - $20 - $15 Broken stater motor (good for a core, should be rebuildable) - Free with anything else Set of four wheels, with center caps, could use light TLC. Tires are shot - $150 $100 $75 (2/14/19 only) A couple rear hatch louvers from unknown years (will pull out and post pictures if anyone is interested) I'll add more stuff to the list as I dig in to boxes.
  6. After more poking and prodding than I'd care to admit, I finally located a small weep in the side of the #1 injector hose. Ironically, it's an aftermarket from some parts store, with what appears to be far newer hose than the rest of them. Got new hose, started to install it...doesn't fit. The brand new stuff that's compliant with the new evap emissions standards has a slightly larger outside diameter than the OEM hoses. It's just big enough that it doesn't fit down in the hose socket correctly, doubly so for the aftermarket injector that has a hose socket about 1/3rd inch deep. Looks like I'll just replace the sockets with FI hose clamps, unless anyone chimes in with a reason not to do that. -Eric
  7. Awesome, thanks. I have some spare injectors, but they've been sitting for several years and I'd be hesitant to use them without getting them cleaned by WitchHunter or similar first. Some confirmation that I'm on the right troubleshooting track is great. 7.9mm line is easy to get around here, I'll see if I can source new seals and o-rings locally, or maybe just make it a 2-stage repair. -Eric
  8. On my '82 N/A I've discovered a fuel leak. Over the past several months, about once every couple of weeks, normally after filling up the tank, I'd notice a very slight smell of fuel. Two days ago I located a leak at the #1 injector after parking at work. The host connecting the rail to the injector had a small amount of fuel on it, and the top of the injector was very slightly wet. There was no visible source of the exact place the fuel was leaking from. After letting the car cool down, I primed the system several times with the key to bring the system up to pressure, checked for leaks and couldn't find any. I drove home (only a couple miles), checked again, no leaks. Ran the engine at various RPMs, wiggled the hoses, still no leaks. There's no smell of fuel under the hood or around the car currently, including the oil. Has anyone seen it where an injector or a hose would have a small leak, then stop completely? If so, where did they determine the leak was coming from? Does anyone have any troubleshooting suggestions for locating the leak? -Eric
  9. eec564

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    I've never had any luck removing roller pilot bearings with grease. The last one I removed, I ended up making a puller to do it, worked great as the bearing was rusted in and took a ton of force to remove. The idea is to cut a nut so it catches on the back of the inner race, and you can use a bolt bottomed out on the crankshaft to pull the nut out along with the bearing. From the misc. parts bin, I found a nut that was ever so slightly too large to fit in the center hole, then ground off the points to make it round and so it fits inside the bearing and can get behind the inner race. I then notched the nut on the grinder so 1/4 of it was cut off, one half of the top later. I squared off the cut and slightly rounded the cut with a hand file. The idea is that the cut on the nut catches on the bearing and keeps the nut from rotating when you turn the bolt. Thread the nut on to a nice long bolt, insert the entire assembly so the nut ledge catches on the inner race, jam an allen wrench or similar next to the nut and jam it in place so it doesn't simply slip back out through the hole, and use a large pair of pliers to keep the entire thing from spinning, then crank away on the bolt! The grinding may mess the threads up, I used a tap to clean things up, but you may be able to thread the bolt in from the un-cut side to clean things up, then turn the nut around. -Eric
  10. eec564

    What killed my transmission?

    Oddly enough, this thread is still very relevant. I ended up changing to full-synthetic fluid and all noise went away. Then three weeks ago, all of a sudden, there was a clunk while I was parking and first and reverse don't first or reverse any more. Other gears still work, but I've got her parked while looking for a transmission that doesn't cost more than I paid for the car in the first place.
  11. Post go here: And... Fixed Double fixed.
  12. Looks like it's just going to be my GF and I, my friend has to work. I'll be bringing my usual compliment of lawn chairs and will see about some sodas and paper towels. -Eric
  13. Looking to by a 5-speed transmission for a non-turbo first-gen 300ZX. Any FS5W71C for a Z31 should work fine. I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, Oakland specifically, but can drive around. -Eric
  14. Congratulations Nathan! I'm in! Should be me plus two, just one Z though.