BayAreaZT
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Posts posted by BayAreaZT
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Glad to see you're out enjoying the car and that she's still running strong. I always wanted to take the Z up there when I was in FL but never got the chance. Looking forward to seeing more pics of the car as your build progresses.
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Veloster turbo. 200hp and 38mpg highway. It will probably come in just over the 20k budget though.
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Good to see the car back in action. I remember following your build the first time around. Have fun at laguna seca
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Just google search carfax and whatever price you want to pay. Ex: "carfax $5". Make sure you filter the search for the past week.
What kind of car? S2000?
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I was shopping for a WRX/STI earlier this year and after researching I narrowed my choice down to a '06 WRX because of the displacement increase to 2.5L and the revised front end kinda grew on me but I would prefer any pre '07 STI just for the reliability of the 6-speed tranny and the performance out the box. I know I would have wanted to mod the WRX and the 5-speeds have pretty bad reliability with any power increases. I test drove a '04 STI and it was a really fun car to drive. It felt like a more refined version of my old turbo 240Z.
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I've used Graebel to move cross country twice. They moved all my stuff including vehicles. Only had minor problems like scratches on furniture but no problems with the vehicles. Don't know what they cost though since my company covered it.
Drive down the coast to Carmel.
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Nice pickup with all the upgrades. I was actually in the market for for an E36 M3 a few months ago. I was hoping to find one like yours with just the right mods. Couldn't find a clean one in my area so I ended up with a E46 M3. I still would like a E36 one of these days.
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I have a Nissan T5 bell housing if that's what you're looking for. I'm in WA 98383
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I have just the P90A head if you're interested.
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I have both R180 and R200 mustache bars and R200 front mount. Have a R200 too but it's a 3.54. Don't know how much shipping to Finland would be.
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Mods please delete. Wrong forum.
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$75 + shipping from 32827
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I have one that takes domestic 14mm o-ring injectors. Let me know if you're interested.
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I'm running a 3.7 with a T-5 tranny. The Z32 tranny has a slightly taller 1st and 2nd gear so it may feel similar with the 3.9. I preferred the NA 5-speed with a 3.54 but the 3.7 / T-5 is livable.
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I have a P90a head with hydraulic lifters. The lifters will probably have to be cleaned before using. Let me know if you're interested. I'm in Orlando.
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The weather down here is finally starting to cool down enough to be pleasent. I'm in Orlando but I'm gonna be busy next week. I have a little girl due on Monday
.edit: Forgot to mention there is a Space Shuttle launch Monday afternoon. Might be cool to watch it from the beach or in Titusville.
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Sent a file to you. Hope it helps.
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I have an excel file I can send you but it's on my work computer so it will have to wait until Monday.
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If you're not in a hurry, I'll should have one available by the end of October.
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I'll probably be looking for a good 'euro' front bumper soon. Mine was in good shape until recently
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Anyone else looking to buy a mig welder check your home depot. My co-worker just bought an open box Lincoln 175HD for less than $250. Lucky bastard.
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Wow...that makes me feel like a jacka**. I had a bad feeling it would come back to bite me when I didn't use Redline like I wanted. The only reason I didn't is because I had to go out of my way to get it and I was pressed for time to get the car back together. I'll post pictures whenever I get to opening up the box.
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Header Flange to Primary Transition
in Exhaust
Posted
It’s been a while since I’ve posted here but there’s always good technical knowledge on this board. This is not Z related but a header question in general. I’ve got a set of BMW headers that doesn’t have consistent flange to primary pipe transitions. There are gaps between the primary pipes and the ID of the flange where ideally it should be flush (welded on the backside). Most of them are close to flush but the worst gap is about 1/8”.
My question is should I go ahead and use them as is or should I attempt to fix the gap? Can a high temp metal filler be used to fill the gap? I don’t really want to go that route but maybe someone has it before and has some feedback. If I have to weld to fill it I’d rather send the headers back. I’m sure the gap will have some effect on flow and performance but would it be enough to not use the headers? Keep in mind I’m not looking to extract maximum power out of the exhaust setup. I’m mainly wanting to get rid of the factory headers that have the cats built into them.