ktm
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Posts posted by ktm
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Where are you looking that LS6 intakes are $650? I bought mine from LS1tech.com for $400 shipped. I also bought a Potz throttle body from Ebay for $75 (IIRC).
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There's a thread in the FAQs that talks about fitting Tokico 280Z springs in a s 240Z. There's math in there that will help you calculate how many coils to cut for your springs. Cutting a 1/4 coil at a time is silly. You'll spend all weekend on one corner.
I followed this to the letter after ditching the progressive Tokico 240z springs and it worked out beautifully.
Cutting springs (not stock springs) is an inexpensive solution if you are not going for the slammed look or looking to track the car. Most people set their coil overs ONCE and that's it. Seems like a huge waste of money for something with all that adjustability and you just set it and forget it.
Lastly, your car is running small tires as NewZed stated. The stock rolling diameter is 24.1 inches, not 23 inches. Thus, putting correctly sized tires on there will eliminate 1/2 inch of the gap and aftermarket springs will lower it another inch.
My tires are actually an inch taller than stock which helps to fill the gap as well.
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Unless 240z's changed transmission mounts, the mount shown in the CX Racing Youtube video is for a 280z unless it is universal. A 240z tunnel is narrower than a 280z, which is why JCI has two different transmission mount styles. Below are the two different mounts between a 240z and a 280z.
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Looks like a bad alternator. Even though you replaced it. The need for a jump with a new battery suggests a short, killing the battery, then when you jump it, the load from charging the dead battery, or the short, or both, kills the alternator again. I would first verify no short circuits.
My experience with a short would cut the engine and then it would fire back up to life. However, if this is the case, I would strongly suggest looking at where the battery positive cable connects to the alternator. If you are using JCI mounts and the "stock" alternator position for an LS1 (from a Camaro), it mounts down low on the driver side. The battery connection to the alternator is very close to the JCI mount.
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Fuel lines can be easy on the wallet if you don't get frustrated easily, I bought a tube bending tool and a double flare tool and made mine out of 3/8" od tubing. I had one minor leak that required some more torque on a coupling. I did use braded lines from the pickup to the pump (an8) I believe.
Late to the party but that is what I did when I swapped out my turbo build for the LS1. I used SS tubing through and had a shop weld on AN fittings by the tank and up by the engine.
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Thanks jon, socorob. Both of you have the same ideas that I came up with, I just wanted to see if someone had found a slick mounting method.
On my Arizona Z Car radiator, I was able to make two brackets that I mounted to the top of the fan and hang it on the radiator. I then drilled a hole at the bottom tab and used a long bolt to attach it to that long tab on the bottom of the fan.
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Does anyone have any photos of how they mounted the Ford Taurus fan to the stock/Champion radiator? I was using an Arizona Z Car radiator which is much larger (vertically) than the stock setup and a perfect match for the Taurus fan. I am now using a Champion radiator and trying to figure out how to mount it.
Thanks,
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Anybody concerned about that oil pressure?
No, not if at operating temperature. My fully warmed up car with oil up to temp will usually idle at 20 psi or so. At first start up, though, I am up over 50 psi.
I'd be more worried about the vacuum unless he has a cam.
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The EZ Wiring harness will need to be connected to a fuse block unless you bought an integrated system. If that is the case, then the engine harness will need to connect to the EZ Wire harness to provide power to the appropriate functions assuming it has provisions for EFI. For instance, an LS1 has separate ignition hot wires for the PCM, coils and injectors, sensors along with one (IIRC) constant power wire. I am running a Painless 12-circuit fuse block and it does NOT contain provisions for EFI, so I have an ancillary fuse block just for the engine. In this case, my engine fuse block gets it power directly from the battery and is fused separately. That is most likely the case with the EZ Wiring system as well.
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Pretty awesome to find a shop that still wants to work and not total everything.
If you are paying out of pocket, nothing is totaled. When I told the shop that it was coming outta my pocket, they were quite sympathetic. Did that influence their quote? Maybe, but they did a great job.
I'll post a progress pic next week. I've done a lot of hammer and dolley work to make things better, smoothed the driver's side inner fender a lot with some filler and sanding, etc. Once the radiator and hoses come and I take 'er for a quick spin, I'll finish up the work and post a pic.
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I agree with Tony and will add that I don't think they are taking credit for build. They are taking a car they bought and either making the necessary changes to meet regulations, modifying it for a customers wishes, or adding their own touches to the car. They buy the car because the bones are good. As we all know, you buy the cleanest car you can find (body wise) and start from there, the mechanicals are the easy part.
wonder where they got that blue with black trim idea.
Yes, a blue and black color scheme is very unusual and only you had the foresight to come up with it on your own.
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Still looking.
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Ok, as I stated following are the before and after pictures of the car. I just picked her up from State Frame Shop in Ontario/Montclair. They did an amazing job on the car. As a matter of fact, I found out that they do all of the frame work for Dale's Restoration. When I drove up they had a Pantera on the rack and worked on three (3) Sunbeam Tiger's before tackling my car.
I thought I wanted to replace the core support, but I think I'll go with a custom removable support bar now. I have all the body panels for the car and even scored a straightened and rechromed front bumper.
Thank you all for the advice.
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I am looking for the front core support for an S30. I only need the upper core support (flat part that radiator bolts to and the upper cross member).
Please PM me with the details.
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Brian, the car is at a place in Ontario called State Frame Shop. I stopped by today to drop off the fenders and sugar scoops to verify the alignment when they get to the car. They are slammed and work on a lot of older cars. There was a Sunbeam Tiger in the queue (outside the shop) and another on the way. A Pantera was being dropped off and they just finished up a early 911 (was there when I dropped my car off).
My car should be ready by next Tuesday/Wednesday. I'll let you know how things turn out.
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I was wondering where you went! Good to see you've still got the Z.
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I am looking for a passenger side fender. I've run across a few ads in CL, but either they never respond or the part is gone.
I am in Diamond Bar, CA, but will travel if necessary.
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I tried PM'ing you z-ya but your box must be full. If he responds that he already has a radiator support, I may be interested in it. What would you be asking for it? I am waiting to get the car back from the frame shop and do not know what mine will look like.
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I am referring to the two front turn signals. Please PM me with details.
Thank you,
Bo
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His real challenge will be finding a shop that will work on an older car. I had this same issue with my car. None of the production shops with the laser alignment frame machines, etc. would touch my car.
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I'll post the before and after pictures when I get the car back from the shop next week.
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The shop is called State Frame Shop and is located in Montclair. It's a tiny place in an older part of the area, they don't have specialized laser equipment, etc., but that is where the other body shops say to go. I'll review them once I get my car back next week.
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That's the plan. I am collecting body parts now in preparation.
Cutting Springs for my 1975 280z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I was not thinking clearly when I typed my response and deserve the slap upside the head......