280Z Turbo

I had a Derale adjustable thermostat with a radiator probe that failed on me a while back. I've been running it on a switch, but I don't want to worry about watching the temp gauge anymore. Has anyone found a good way to permanently mount a fixed temp switch on an L28ET? I know there is a stock fan switch, but I have no idea what the set point is on that. I'm having a hard time finding anything smaller than 3/8" NPT as well. Also, what should my set points be for a 180 degree thermostat? 200F on, 180F off?

I've always thought those were in all 260/280Zs.

It's a 76 California car so it was technically it's still supposed to have a catalyst. I've already got a built in turn down. I've tried ridiculously long tailpipes before and it didn't seem to help.

I'm probably going to get this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59959/ GRM tested a cat just like this on their Miata and the dyno showed no difference between it and a test pipe.

I have a '76 280Z 2+2 with an L28ET with the dreaded fume problem. Like many of you, I've tried replacing the taillight gaskets, rear hatch seal, plugs, etc. to no avail. Would a universal catalytic converter help solve the problem? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-94109/

It sounds like this Bosch one would be a little better than the stocker. It was designed for high pressure CIS mechanical fuel injection. I never would have bought that Walbro if I had known what I was doing. People told me that I needed it to run more boost and I just believed them. I'll probably try running the stocker again.

I do. I used to work barehanded, but I joined a raceteam and the other members got me hooked on using nitrile gloves. They make cleanup 10x easier, they protect your skin, and reduce exposure with nasty chemicals. I don't know why I ever worked barehanded.

I, like many of you, hate my noisy Walbro. I want to try a different pump. I've heard of the 044 fuel pump, but that's pretty expensive and it sounds like more than what I need. I have a stock L28ET, Evo intercooler, Z31 ECU and MAF, stock injectors, etc. I don't see the car putting out much more than 250 rwhp in the near future. Can anyone confirm if the Bosch 0 580 254 910 be sufficient? Bosch 910 Fuel Pump Specs: Bosch Part Number: 0 580 254 910 Minimum Current: 12 Volts Operating Pressure: 72.5 PSI (5 Bar) Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 34 GPH (130 LPH) Fuel Pump Location: In-Line Fuel Pump Connections: Inlet: 15MM Outlet: M12 x 1.5 Electrical: Positive M5 / Negative M4

Any decent auto parts store should have them. Autozone sells a metric bolt kit for Asian vehicles which contains all of the standard Japanese threads.

What tires do you guys plan on running with big fat 16" wheels? Last time I checked, there was little or nothing out there.

My lower window seal is in horrible shape (as you can see) but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Is there some kind of universal/replacement seal that I can use. It's for a 2+2.

I've got a bad case of "Z fatigue". I'm starting to feel like my car is just not very fun to drive anymore. For one thing, it's ugly. The paint looks horrible and it's a horrible color. I've also got that trademark Z rust with a giant hole in my rocker panel. I hate the power delivery with my new Evo VIII intercooler. It has no bottom end anymore. I'm starting to miss the J-pipe. The steering is worn out and imprecise. I think I need a whole new steering rack. It vibrates and shakes so bad that my arm gets tingly just from driving it. The interior is obnoxiously loud, windows up or down. I've also got bad fumes, despite replacing a lot of the rubber. It leaks oil like a sieve. It also leaks rainwater like a sieve so I can't even drive it anywhere that it might rain. I've got no idea where it comes from either. It just puddles onto my floor mats from some invisible place. Oh and it seems I've got another R200 diff going out. I don't have the money to fix these problems since I'm a poor college student. My car used to be so much fun and now it's not. I'm starting to think I'd be better off unloading it and buying an NA Miata or something. The problems are just so overwhelming. Do you guys ever feel like this? If so, how do you deal with it?

I got a sandwich plate + oil cooler kit from Summit. It comes with hose and fittings so it's easy to install.

MSA steering wheels are just Grant Wheels with a Z horn button and a hefty price premium. I don't think a .25" difference would matter anyway.

How small of a steering wheel can you run before it becomes an issue? I'd like to install this steering wheel: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRT%2D1064&N=700+4294891653+4294790005+4294891651+115&autoview=sku with a 13.75" diameter and a 3.75" dish, but would I still be able to see my gauges? Would the steering effort become excessive? The stock wheel is 15".