Careless

In that case I would install a small 12volt computer fan where the ignitor chip goes, since I would be running remote coils.

it has nothing to do with that. How do I know? I'm on a Quad-Core MacPro with 16GB of RAM and enough HDD space to cache this entire website and I had to try 4 times to type this message because of the FastCGI error. As stated earlier, it's a server issue! I encounter these daily.

Diagonal from the outside in would look better, IMHO. makes it look more aggressive.

looks like the P.O used a friggen valve spring or something. LOL.

Just incase anyone needs to know:

Cool, now I have an email for all those newsletters that I don't want to read and sites that I don't care to register using my own email or real information. Thanks.

lol +1

LOLZ didnt see that one!

if it's an fs5w71c trans, then no. far as i know, all non-turbo RB25's (or all non-turbo RB's for that matter) came with that trans, ands its not EXACTLY the same in every application (different case designs). if your car has an FS5R30A trans from another car, it will possibly work, pending results of this thread...

but you don't have an RB26

that is a cool idea. you people on this forum rock. LOL

it might be easier if you look for the car they came in rather than the block itself. you could buy a run down N42/N42 block/head carrying 1976 280z parts car from someone and then sell off the shell and associated parts. College projects usually eat up money if you look at things like this. If you can't find it, then simply don't overbore your engine and look to other means for generating power. Higher compression maybe?

just thought i'd mention that most FelPro nissan exhaust seals are Poly Acrylite and not Viton like their intake valve seals. Says so on their packaging bags! The Ford seals look like intake valve seals, but Viton usually doesn't have a problem with the heat that is transfered through the valves/guides upto the seal, so they will work good for that application. I found a neat way to resist damaging a seal while installing is to take your old seal and turn it upside down and put it over-top the new seal and hit that with a socket. also, cut a straw and feed it over the valve stem before putting the socket on it. the squareness and the rough casting of some shitty sockets will mar the stem and that's not a desirable thing. the seal against seal contact will prevent damage to the tightening springs and will allow the top of the new seal to slide down evenly and concentrically around the valve guide and valve stem. carefully move the valve down first, and then slightly pop it up like a millimeter to see if the valve will bulge itself. if it does, you went too far (too late, anyways!) and if it doesn't bulge up, then give the valve some action over and over again to make sure it stays that way. I've never had a problem with nissan valve seals doing it this way and it's the method I used the first time on a friends 1.2L Micra engine and it worked out fine. It may take an extra 20 minutes to do an entire head, but hey... works for me since I'm slow already! sucks that the cars rings are leaky though sweet little car.

sounds like too much fuel spraying from the carbs at WOT if you're down low and gun it.

yes, but not with factory intake, it may hit the bumps that are on the center of the 26 valve covers. with a greddy intake (you can get one from jgy customs), it will work.

i figure the screw is always good for fine tuning. can't hurt, can it?

you know the saying when working 'round the house or the cars.... "tighten one, drink one, tap one, drink one, grease one, drink one..." and so on looks like it's taking a while if the snail got to the first drink.

why not take the 2 simultaneously firing cylinders and group them into a 6-2-1 setup. it's easier to do on an L6 than it is on a v8, so you may benefit from grouping whichever cylinders fire together and have them meet so they dampen eachother out in a larger twin-collector before meeting in a tri-y connector.

most likely as in the "Ferrari" Dino

lol, gaht dangit. ummm.... remove and reinstall the TPS? replug it?

gaht dang!

have you tried holding the clutch pedal to release the connection between the trans and the car to make sure it's not the transmission that's got some crud in it that's making it spin slower than it should? just an idea, but hey, it might be worth a shot!

I thought this was a supercharger thread, not a turbo charging thread with a huge snail.

I ran the model number for WD21 here's what I got: Then I ran checked Section 330 of the FAST system for D21 units. There were tons of engines that came in the D21, none being a VG or an RB. but here's what I got: May not be of great use, but I can tell you for sure that all the 31GXX and the 33GXX are the same unit, but for different years, so if anyone knows what diffs came in the certain years, the gears can be cross-referenced to the years in section 330 of the Nissan FAST catalogue. looks like nissan put special parts on certain cars too that we never new about. all we get are turbo chargers

+1 on that find