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Careless

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Careless last won the day on April 9 2013

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About Careless

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  • Birthday 12/14/1984

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    ralph.care@gmail.com

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    Maple, Ontario, Canada

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  1. I was looking for something unrelated to this thread and stumbled on your blog somehow... and then clicked the main page link and saw the vid- so I had to come back here, thinking i was the first person to see it and had to spoil the good news with a subtle hint like "Derek has some 'splainin' ta do." just awesome, Derek. i think i speak for a lot of us when there are those who say taking on something like this is a waste of time, or it will "never work" and all that jazz- but that's all people like us are trying to do here, is waste time doing fun, interesting, and chal
  2. or perhaps a 3 litre v6 that is now a 1.5 litre V3/6 ... depending on how good you are at sleep wrenching. lol
  3. all the removable parts. You'd need a tumbler about 4 to 5 times the size of a common industrial sized one in order to get the action needed to support and lift an engine block through vibratory motion. I don't think it would be too feasible. the media and burnishing compound cost alone would be a mortgage. and getting all the media out of the crevices of a block would be more work than it's worth.
  4. I'd post in this thread, but I don't want to disrupt the flow with photos of my own work- but you should see what a fully assembled vibratory tumbled L24 looks like. I can shows ya if you'd like. Best tool once you work out the finishes attainable through testing various mediums and compounds/burnishing fluids. Some media will get you as close to the "virgin casting" look on the inside of most engine parts that aren't exposed to the elements, like the inside of the timing chain cover.
  5. I don't need to buy or have the intention of buying something to point out a part of the project that I feel could use some more love and attention on the next go-around. This is a discussion forum. We discuss things here. If that's not the case, then why are hundreds of people posting in this thread? Are they going to buy it too? Why are you so offended by my opinion, anyways? Are you buying?
  6. valve cover looks great.. but that font & typsetting.... blehhhh
  7. which head are we talking about here? 1100HP LY Datsun head? not questioning truth/existence. would genuinely like to read about its applications where 1000hp would be necessary in racing for whatever class it was in.
  8. I may be nitpicking here, but I would have used some red scotch-brite sanding belts and a couple of squirts of elbow grease to wipe the mandrel bending lines/marks from the tubing before welding them up. It ends up looking 10 times better, and prevents it from looking like it is made out of mild-steel exhaust tubing. I know it can be done post-weld, but then you lose the colouring at the weld joint- which is attractive to most people looking at welds and manifolds in particular. Eventually the tubing will end up looking a somewhat uniform brown colour across the entire length of the mani
  9. FWIW, Formula 1 engines have (at least since the mid 80's) used between 240-400 grit paper finish on the ports. Most commonly around 320g- both FI and NA engines alike. A far cry from laborious dimpling process, accomplished by using a 1/8 shank ball-end burr on a pencil grinder. (They get reaaaaaaal violent when you start using them to reach far into the port). If you're going to attempt this, try your best to find a 1/8 ERICKSON collet grinder. It is much better than the "pinch" style collets, especially for extended bits. From my reading/research... port size/shape/floor is where 90%
  10. preferably off the intake manifold (after the throttle body) unshared from any sort of valve that diverts vacuum to another device. It will not matter much as long as it's tapped in before the vacuum device/valve, but having it run to the manifold on its own line is ideal.
  11. Well it wouldn't have anything to do with the machining of the valves, as it could be accomplished by making a secondary trough around the head, like a rectangular riser- also with a 2mm o-ring. Just looks really nice. Reminiscent of the cool flat-head ford's with offenhauser covers. Some LZ20B's were sprayed Dark Crystal Black, while some had the Datsun Dusty Blue colour.
  12. casting my vote for "trough" around the head (since it's too late to cast it now), and LZ20B style cam covers, complete with metric acorn nuts. casted 4-bolt cam gear covers are a desirable aesthetic as well.
  13. Heresay, and BS. If that were to make any sort of sense, or have any performance advantage- I would run the smallest pads on the largest brake calliper I could find and out-brake everyone with this new secret performance trick, borrowed from the 60's and 70's. Sorry, but it just doesn't make sense. The only reason why earlier 240mm Z31 discs held better than any 250mm disc were due to the AFTERMARKET options only being available in 240mm option because the 1984-1986 models, turbo and non-turbo alike, were equipped from factory with 240mm assemblies. This is stated in the 1984
  14. I have a better idea. I'm driving an RB30 block to vancouver in the coming weeks. I have a R30A transmission from a Z31. It is missing the bellhousing. I can bring that to you if you're willing to buy it. You would just have to take the bellhousing from your RB26 and put it on the Z31 gear casing without all this fancy welding business. it is nearly identical to the RB25 transmission. I believe the only differences between the Z31 VG30 and RB25 transmissions were the bell housings. PM me if you're interested. Transmission shifted pretty good before I took the bell housing off to sell
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