maxtor
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Posts posted by maxtor
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I run a second electric fuel pump for the nitrous. Your stock fuel pump is not able to give you enough fuel for both. You are lucky you did not burn a hole in your pistons. Also you need to retard timing when adding nitrous. I think the standard is 2 degrees per 50 hp of nitrous.
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I have the above which is in perfect condition. It has 98,000 original miles, everything original except the paint. It has been stored and kept in show room condition. New paint.
Manual trans.
Interior, gauges, dash, seats all show room condition.
What is it worth?
The reason it has been stored is because we are getting to old to bend down to get in and out of it,,, so it just sits in the garage under a car cover. I have my brother come over and start it once a month and drive it for about ten miles.
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No, I am taking him at his word. It is at a parts recycle place. I asked him to check to make sure that it was a lsd. He said that it was. I had him rotate one axle and make sure the other turned in the same direction, and he said that it did. We will see what it looks like when it arrives.
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I just found one in Southern Ca., They are shipping it up to Northern Ca. for a total cost of $266.50 From what I have been reading on this forum, that seems to be a reasonable price. It is a posi.
Thanks for all the help.
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LOL, some days I feel like I'm too old to be playing with hotrods, but its still fun and that all than matters.
Nope... you are not to old... You are only 5 months older than me.... Geeez...maybe you are to old..
I have a 1960 Falcon, 428SCJ with nitrous, and guys our age grew up messing with hot rods. It never seems to leave the blood. Remember the fun years of 1965, with the 389 GTO, 427 Fairlane, and 426 Road runner. Well I had the 427 Ford Fairlane...
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With 215/60R14 BFG Drag Radials mounted on some 14X6 wheels my 302/240Z cuts low 1.6 sixty foots with a best of 1.59 at Irwindale. This is with a welded 4.11 R200 which is a pain to drive anywhere but going straight. Tirerack.com has the tires in stock for $112 which is cheaper than Summit.
http://images115.fotki.com/v667/photos/4/42437/4197285/IMG_1509-vi.jpg
Thanks for the information;
But I already ordered the tires from Summit. I also called our local auto wreckers to find a 1984-86 200SX for a posi r200 differential, and they told me that there was not one in seven states.
I really do not want to weld the stock R200. I might buy another r200 and have it welded and change it out during drag racing season, then change it back for road racing season, and everyday racing. That would be a pain, so I hope to find a lsd r200 with 4.11 gears. I am going to call our local datsun dealer and see what they have. List plus 300% I am thinking.
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What track did you run the car at ...
Redding drag strip. Redding Calif.
BTW,,, you guys have some very fast and nice looking cars.
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Maxtor ... where are you located
Thanks guys;
I will look for a lsd unit, because I do like to drive around and want to take it to some ZONC events. I ordered the BFG's yesterday from Summit, and they are on backorder. They say they will be in around the middle of July.
We are in Redding Ca.
Thanks again
Maxtor
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Just a good tire will not make the car hook .. you also need the right suspension as well... a good tire will help alot over a street tire.. as for drag radials nothing beats the mickey thompson drag radials .. we run low 8 sec passes on them ... the et drag slicks with low pressure float around at top speed .. kinda stinks .. the drag radials do not and you can enjoy them on the street .. but no 14 inch rim sizes.. the only drag radial for the 14 inch rim is bfg drag radial in a 215/60/14 or a 225/60/14 they work well but not as good on life of tread...
Thanks all of you for this great information. I just got off the phone with Summit, and they also suggested the BFG 215/60/14 drag radials. I set my car up for high speed road racing, (silver state race)eibach short springs, adjustable shocks, large sway bars, 22 gallon fuel cell, and it has Goodyear 215/60ZR16 Eagle GT tires now. I should replace the fuel cell with a 5 or 10 gallon unit. If you weld the spiders on the R200, how does it affect the handling on the street? It would be nice to get a 3.90 or 4.11 posi unit, but I have no idea where to get one. I could buy a nitrous setup to boost the hp to around 500, so do you think the BFG's or the MT drag slicks would be best for this setup? How about the R200 holding up? I am taking the car to the transmission shop to replace the torque converter to a 3000 rpm stall. I would like to be in the low 12's with a goal of high 11's sometime in the future. (Larger engine). I made one run last weekend and it did 13.1 at 107 mph. spinning the tire. I was beaten by a Mustang... with slicks, he was in the mid 12's.
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This is my friends take on DOT drag tires since I don't have the experience he has. He runs a supercharged mustang that has enough power to twist a stock axle (8.8) with a set of MT ET streets.
For ultimate traction, Mickey Thomson ET streets bias ply. The downside is they don't mix well with radials up front. The car starts to wander on the top end.
BFGoodrich and and Mickey Thompson radials were close but you will not get much mileage out of them either, about 2-5 thousand miles depending on how much you light 'em up.
Nitto drag radials not as much traction as above, but he got almost 10 thousand miles off of them.
His results didn't totaly suprise me. It always seems like you give up traction for mileage.
Thanks for the above information.
I have some extra 14" mag wheels, and I want to purchase some drag tires for those wheels. They will be used for drag racing only. I have 16" wheels and tires for the street. The wheels are 6" wide. I could and would purchase a new set of mag wheels for the drag slicks if needed to fit under the wheel wells. It has a Th700R4 trans. I will look into purchasing a 4.11 posi gear, or weld up the spiders for better traction.
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What drag tire are most of you using for drag racing? I have a R200 3.55 stock differential. ZZ3 engine.
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Guy's a 460 is not an FE. But it is a great engine, and would be fun to have in a 240Z. It might fit better than an FE because of the oil pan configuration.
FE engines,
332,352,360,361,390,391,406,410,427,428
The 332,361,391 are truck engines.
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When you say THAT engine, let me enlighten you on why I am going to use the FE.
1. I have a bunch of them.
2. I can make 700 hp with the stuff I have in my garage.
3. I am getting old, and someday after I leave this earth, my wife is going to sell the car, and a Cobra is worth a lot more with a 427 or 428 FE engine than any other engine.
4. I have a 240Z with a 400 hp sbc and at Thunderhill Raceway, I have not had a corvette or porsche pass me yet on the straight, and with the FE Cobra, it will have 300 more hp. at the same weight.
5. Shelby would smile....
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I am looking at them all. I have received some brochures on the Superformance kit, and they seem to be the best out there, but they are not cheep. Many of the kits are specializing in the small block, so I have to do some research on the best handleing kit for the big block. Each vendor goes about it a little differently. If I can get the money together, it will probably be the Superformance.
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We are lucky to have a car (240,260,280,300Z) that has an engine compartment that is large enough to take so many types of engines. Another good possiblility would be a rotory engine. On the Ford side, whatever fits, works. For a daily driver, a small block Ford is hard to beat, because of size, weight, power, drivability, cost etc. but for some of us, we are only limited by our own ideas,(and money) so I think a Ford flathead is a great idea. I have an abundance of Ford FE engines, so I had thought about installing one in an extra 240Z that I have, but after lots of measureing I decided not to at this time. A flathead should fit without cutting. Good luck.
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Take a look at August's issue of Hot Rodding and they show you how to build a 752 hp FE engine. 600 to 650 hp is easy to make without breaking the bank. This forum has some good people with good ideas, and I hope that someone someday will make a FE Z.
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I agree with you.. I have been building and racing cars since before most of you have been born, and very few of the cars sold for as much as I had in them. Racers like to race, and cost is secondary (if you have the money). But as we get older we hope to recoop some of our expenses from time to time. The point I was trying to make is that most of us build cars for the fun of driving them, and If you have a choice of building a car that cost you $20,000 or more, why not build one that when you are finished, it is worth $20,000. If you put $60,000 into a AC Cobra, it will be worth $60,000 plus. If you put $25,000 into a FE 240Z, it might be worth $15,000. Unless you plan on being buried with the car, at some time you will want to sell it. A good chassis builder could build a FE 240Z for a lot less money, and have a great time with it, but most of us would have to hire it done. I hope that someone will build a FE 240Z, because it would be awsome.
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Yes, you all have very good points. I have a 240Z with a ZZ3 engine and many many hours and about $15,000 into it. If I sold it today, I might be able to get $10,000 out of it. I have done some research on putting a FE into the other 240Z that I have, and found that the only way it is going to fit is to do extensive cutting. One of the reasons that I wanted to put the FE into the 240Z is because of the high horsepower and because I have five 428's and one 427 engine. To get back to my point is that after all the modifications to the 240Z to make the engine fit, the value of the car would not be worth the time, expense and engine. Therefore in my case, I am going to look for a AC Cobra kit to put one of my engines in. First off, the AC Cobra is engineered for this engine, and when the engine is installed, it increases the value of the AC Cobra by about $10,000 over the small block. If someone installs an FE engine in a 240Z, it would be best used for drag racing, and should put the Z into the 9's. If they used it for road racing, it would be way to front end heavy to be competitive, unless they used an aluminum block, heads, intake, water pump etc. Then the cost would be many times the value of the 240Z.
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Well lets see,,
700 pounds extra weight
500 extra horsepower
I think the FE wins......
weigh a C6 automatic compaired to a stock 240Z tans... Big difference,,, not slight increase.....
Also extra weight in beefing up the suspension to hold the extra horspower....
240Z 15.3 lbs per horsepower 150 hp at 2300 lbs.
FE 240Z 4.6 lbs. per horsepower 650 hp at 3000 lbs.
Are you beginning to see the picture AARC240 ??
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Yes the mark iv did have the 427 engine, which spanked ferrari and the rest of the world for four years straight, until ferrari had the officials ban the Fe 427 engine. A 427 small block does not have near the torque as the 427 big block has, although the weight saving does make it more appealing to some projects. Shelby made well over 600 hp with his 427's. A all aluminum block is being made at Shelby in Las Vegas, so you can have a all aluminum FE engine that weighs about the same as a small block Chevy that has aluminum heads. I saw one recently at a car show. The guy says that he paid $13,000 for the engine. Not to bad a price for a complete aluminum engine. Buying the big block chevy 571 engine that makes the same hp and torque, costs more and is heavier, but might be easier to install in a 240Z or 280Z because of the rear oil sump.
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If you are using a Fe Ford engine, in a 3000 lb. car (1.5 tons), and plan on going to the drag strip, slicks are a must. Therefore as I said earlier, if you are using the FE engine in a Z car, good luck with the differential and drive train. I think that it will be a fun project, and after working out the bugs, It should be a great running car. If you do not use slicks, all you are going to do is burn up your tires, while the other guy is going down the track.
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I hope you get it to work. 352,360,390,406,410,427 and 428 engines all are the same outside dimensions. The difference is in the bore and stroke. The first challenge is to get it to fit without to much cutting on the chassis. The second challenge is to make the drive train live. The FE has a tremendous amount of torque. It will make your 280Z very very fast if you can keep the body and drive train from tearing apart. It is easy to make 500+ hp with the 390, and 600+ hp with the 427 and 428.
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I have a 240Z with a ZZ3 crate engine in it, with some go fast items added, and I have not broken anything yet. My guess is that it would be a high 12 second, or low 13 second car, if I ran it at the drags, so because it has an automatic, small block chevy, and modest horsepower plus the car weighs 3000 lbs. (roll cage and sub frame) is the reason it has not broken parts.
I could do a test this year. I have extra 240Z differentials and could use a 428 Ford engine C6 trans on a open chassis and see if it granades the half shafts and or differential with drag slicks. Small block Chevy's, even most high output small blocks do not have the torque the big block Ford has. If they live, it would make me a believer. I would at least find the weak areas. I have a extra 240Z body, and if i could find a chassis builder that could cut off the original Z front end and weld on a Mustang II front suspension, then the 428 might fit. If the differential and half shafts live in the test, maybe I will try to make it fit the spare 240Z. Most likely I will have a bunch of broken Z parts.
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I know what it takes to turn 10's, because I have a 1960 Falcon street legal, with a 428SCJ that turns tens. Broken axles, broken transmission, unibody ripped loose from where spring is hooked to unibody etc. The 9 second 240Z must have a subframe of some type, or the body is fit to a full chassis, or something like that, because the unibody is thinner metal than a 1960 Falcon.
He must have a 9 inch Ford differential. I can not believe that a r200 would last even one run. A 14 second street car is fast. I remember a 1964 GTO 389 tri-power would run 14.0 in stock condition in 1964. True 13,12,11 second street cars are rare, but there are some out there. A true 10 or 9 second street car is not very streetable. I would hate to drive 200 miles in my Falcon.
With 4.11 gears on a long trip, Fuel prices, loud engine, and high rpms at street legal speeds would make the trip uncomfortable. Now I have a built C6 trans, 9inch 31spline axles, and beefed spring purch. To have a car that runs 9's is awsome. Lots of hard work, and lots of money. If you have a 13, or 12 second 240Z be happy. Less broken parts and more streetable.
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1986 200sx turbo differential
in Drivetrain
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I just received a call from the store that has the differential. He had the inspection cover off and it is a 3.90 gear ratio.