Just Jim
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Posts posted by Just Jim
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Not sure how much more compression will be gained, if any, but the heads will bolt onto a non roller block with no problems.
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The rear sump pick up screen attaches to a special main bolt with a stud on the hex end. No special main cap required.Did you end up having to change the pick up screen or just the oil pump?
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The dual sump pan requires a different oil pump pick up screen than the normal front sump screen. The high volume pump shouldn't be a problem. Did you use a oil pump pick up screen with a long tube which picks up oil from the rear sump?
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If you drive the car to the track and don't want to have to jack it up to change the tires then get some drag radials.If you don't mind swapping wheels or trailer the car then get some slicks.Some 26x8.5x15's should fit your wheels and car without any problem.
I just put some 24.5X8.0X14 Mickey Thompson slicks on my car to replace the 215/60R14 BFG Drag Radials. Now the 60 foots are consistent at about 1.54-1.55. The Drag Radials were good for a best of 1.510 60 foot in cooler weather but weren't consistent. One run would be 1.58 the next 1.70.The car gets trailered to the track so the slicks aren't a problem.It has run a best 1/8 mile of 7.18/94+ (about 11.25 1/4mile) but since the rollbar cut-off is 7.25 and I don't want to put one in, it has been slowed down to run 7.30's.
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Hey JustJim. Dude - you have a '58 Morris Minor. My GF in college had one that here dad had fully restored and it was a beauty. Then again, her 987cc 4-banger wouldn't get down the road like yours. Once it was up to speed, though, I could terrorize folks on the curvy section of the highway pretty well.
Question - would adjustable struts accomplish the same thing as your higher spring rates - IE valve them to the super stiff mode in the rear and allow the front to rais a bit?
Adjustable struts might work if it's possible to crank in some super stiff rebound. It's easier and cheaper to just add stiffer rear springs.
Here's the Morris:
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The stock front springs and 250lb 8 inch coil over conversion springs in the rear are good for 1.5xx 60foots from my 302/240z. The stiff rear springs don't allow the rear to squat much off the line which keeps the axle angles straight preventing breakage of axle components. Both ends have stock replacement strut inserts.
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While I'd rather see a SBF swap into a 240/260 than the common SBC swap if all your 260 needs to make it a reliable driver is an alternator then get a new alternator.
Those Mustang wheels probably have too much back spacing to fit your car without hitting the springs/stuts on the inside.
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I doubt a bored out (.030)460 is making anywhere near 500HP. It would be better if swapped into a larger car or a Fox bodied Mustang using one of the readily available swap kits.
A small block Ford or Chevy is a much better and easier swap into a 240Z than a BBF.
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Those plugs are more snake oil. Split Fire plugs has similar hype back in the '90's. No performance improvement will be seen but your wallet will be lighter.
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What knid of HP and weight do you have? I've been tossing around the 4.11s for a while...with the GV overdrive it might work! I don't need to go over 140mph...ever.
Nope, don't need to go over 140.
Not sure on the HP but it might be about 340HP at the flywheel. I'm guessing the weight at about 2650. The key to running decent times at the drag strip is getting the power to the ground. 400-450HP won't be much good if the tires just spin.
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It's not a video but here's a pic from last night. The good lookin' Z has a 350SBC but my junk yard refugee 302 240Z out ran him this time. Ran a best ever 7.188/94MPH which is about a 11.30 1/4 mile pass.
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Looks like a nice project. Guess that Mustang has front end damage and was totaled,huh? Seems like a Cobra might be worth fixing but not being a Mustang guy I don't know.
Where are you located?
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The car has only run Irwindale's 1/8 mile which is the closest track to me.
7.45 1/8 mile is about 11.70-11.80 1/4 mile.
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The front suspension is completely stock, the rear has adjustable 250lb 8 inch long 2.5 I.D. springs. Both ends have cheap KYB replacement strut cartridges. The 4.11 R200 CLSD with 215/60R14 BFG Drag Radials have been good for a best of 1.575 60 ft.
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Here's a video from a couple of weeks ago at Irwindale. It's not as exciting as lilredZ's airport road video though. The car ran a best of 7.45/93MPH 1/8 mile.
http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p147/289nate/?action=view¤t=jimvideo002.flv
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Thanks for the info,John. The first time at the drag strip with the CLSD the 60foot times were the same as with the welded spiders. The second trip to the track the 60 foots were off and the tires were spinning some. Seems like the track wasn't prepped as good the second outing causing the wheel spin rather than the CLSD clutches slipping.
http://bowtie0069.fotki.com/2006-irwindale-pix/102606/img1450.html
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I replaced the R200 Lincoln Posi (welded spiders) with a Power Brute in my 240Z but didn't check the "break a way torque". Now,after 12 drag strip runs it takes about 75-80lbs to turn one axle with the opposite wheel on the ground. Is 75-80lbs the normal "break a way torque" on a new unit or are the clutches starting to wear already? How many burnouts will a CLSD last?
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The vent on a '69 and earlier C4 is a 1/4 inch tube on the drivers side near the shift linkage. '70 and up it is on the top of the tailshaft.My early C4 has a hose hooked up to the tube running to a fuel filter mounted on the firewall to act as an accumulator. Prior to that it blew enough fluid out at the track that I got kicked off due to excessive smoke caused by the trans fluid burning on the the hot exhaust.
The car has run 7.50's at about 90MPH in the 1/8 mile. This is about 11.80's 1/4 mile. It's a re-ringed standard bore 302,solid flat tappet cam,E Bay aluminium heads,750 Holley on a Performer RPM,Summit 1 5/8 street rod headers,3800 stall C4,4.11 R200. The BFG 215R14 Drag Radials have cut a best of 1.575 60 ft which is much better than I expected.
Hoping the weather stays dry for some testing of the fresh motor this Thursday night at Irwindale.
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Careful driving that red car in the rain,spinning around is no fun.Your car is too nice to be banged up.
The C4 leak might be due to fluid blowing out the vent. Maybe the trans was over filled? Running a 1/4 inch line from the vent to a firewall mounted accumulator can mounted above the bellhousing fixed the same problem on my car.
I also have been waiting for the rain to stop to try out the fresh motor in my car. Last time ,out running a fresh motor, a head gasket blew which caused a partial hydro-lock of one cylinder which caused a rod bearing to spin taking out the crank and one piston. It's all fresh again now waiting for the rain to stop. Hoping it doesn't rain this week so some 1/8 mile testing can be done at Irwindale.
http://images19.fotki.com/v32/photos/4/42437/4197285/IMG_1509-vi.jpg
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I made my own crosmember which uses early Mustang motor mounts. The motor isn't centered but offset about 1 inch or so like the original motor.The oil pan is a dual sump from a Fox body Mustang. The front sump oil drain is pretty close to the original crossmember but the drain plug can be removed.
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running the summit racing block hugger headers.
ed
The Summit block huggers fit my car without any steering shaft mods.
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A puller will go between the engine and radiator,a pusher will mount in front of the radiator. The puller type is better.
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With 215/60R14 BFG Drag Radials mounted on some 14X6 wheels my 302/240Z cuts low 1.6 sixty foots with a best of 1.59 at Irwindale. This is with a welded 4.11 R200 which is a pain to drive anywhere but going straight. Tirerack.com has the tires in stock for $112 which is cheaper than Summit.
http://images115.fotki.com/v667/photos/4/42437/4197285/IMG_1509-vi.jpg
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Can 10MM bolts be used on a 12MM CLSD without spacers?
4.6 H.O. in a 280z
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
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Maybe the cops wanted the motor back? Or the 280Z was reported stolen? Just a thought.