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Aren, Thanks, I will take you up on that. I have decided to do a short run of this design. It will likely take a couple of months, but then I will have them. Thanks Joe

Do any of you know anyone in the Raleigh, NC or Los Angeles, CA area that are running the 4 piston calipers with 15" or 16" wheels? I have the caliper, I have the design, just need to check clearances before manufacturing. Thanks! Joe

I have been working to get the cost down. Unfortunately, at low volumes they are pricey to manufacture. Joe

Nigel, Yes, plans have changed. Four years ago I had a lot of ideas of where I wanted to go with the technology that didn't work out (mostly military applications). I spent a lot of time and money on that application, as well as on overseas patents, and got into a hole. Then my 240Z was stolen, stripped and dumped in the LA river AND then came the crash of 2008! I am happy to say that I am in a position to start expanding the product line (i.e. I am not broke anymore). But I no longer have my Z car. Nigel, what size wheel do you run? Is there clearance between the caliper and the wheel? Thanks, Joe

Gentlemen, The brake coolers took a long hiatus over the last couple of years, but they are back in development! I have the designs for the Toyota four piston conversions, but I would like to find out what the market would be for them. I will be releasing the Porsche Boxster units within the next month. The Corvette C5 is planned after that, but if there is enough interest then I can manufacture the ones for the Toyota's before the corvettes. I just need to know how much clearance is available between the caliper and the wheel and how many people will buy a set if they are less than $165 per set of four (complete front axle). Please visit the www.fourproducts.com and go to the contact page and let us know that you want them and if there are enough of you then so be it! The Corvette shall wait! Joe CEO, Four Products LLC Former Z-List moderator Associate Editor Nissan Sport Magazine

Thanks Daniel, I think that I found it, but what was confusing was that nothing else was changing. It appears that my accel trigger level was too low. I bumped it up and it didn't do it nearly as much. Gonna bump it up a little bit more.... Now if I can just solve me starting issues I will be happy. Joe

Dataloging is how I found out that it was happening. Pulse width is jumping up without any apparent reason.... What I mean is nothing else is changing to cause it.... I am confused. If it were noise on the TPS then that would show up.... Joe

Hi all, Still trying to trouble-shoot my megasquirt installation. 2.9L L28, NA. Using Flyback circuit. I am looking at my datalog and I am having these jumps in the injector pulse widths that are random. Just cruising along and the PW doubles briefly. This causes the car to bog down temporarily as it floods. There is no corresponding change in the TPS that should be causing it although the MAP does change after the event. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks, Joe

OK, I upped some of the settings in the VE table and the surging got much better, but still not completely gone. One issue that got worse was I now have an incredible backfire between shifts. What knob to I adjust to get rid of this. Can anyone direct me to some settings that someone knows work for a NA L28? Also, how do I set-up a wide band O2 sensor - any links? Thanks, Joe

I completely don't understand this. What is the o2 authority and how do I set it? Thanks, Joe

What is involved in switching to a wideband O2 sensor? I have had people tell me that that would help me run closed loop...do you have a link or parts list? For now, I think that I am running too lean. I will increase my required fuel value - that should effectively up everything across the ve fuel table, shouldn't it? Thanks, Joe

I am pretty sure that flyback was built into this board, so yes. I am not sure about the a/f ratio.... to the right of center means too much air (a large f small)? joe

Hi all, I am still having trouble with my Megasquirt setup on my 70 240Z. I am just running injector control and I swear, if I wasn't planning a turbo upgrade the SUs would be back. I still have lots of trouble starting it. I have to depress the pedal slightly and if that doesn't work I have to hold it on the floor. Also, when I am driving at a constant speed it feels like someone keeps tapping the brake pedal...I guess this is the opposite of surging. It does it under slight acceleration as well. On hard acceleration it doesn't do it. I am posting all my tables - any help would be much appreciated. This is a l28 that is bored out 30 over with the standard injectors without the dropping resistors. Nothing else special. Thanks! Joe

That is where I am as well....slight push of the throttle. I am much happier though! Now I need to address the surging problem that I am having. I will probably post the tables and settings to try and address that one. Joe

OK, this is the first time that I have heard about being able to run these closed loop. Is this because I am not running a wideband O2 sensor? Thanks, Joe

HI everyone, thanks for all of your suggestions. THe main problem with start has been the idle adjustment on the throttle body - I had it set too low. I opened it up and now it will start with a slight decrease of the pedal. My fast idle bypass doesn't seem to be working so I am going to look into that before upping the idle anymore. After I get it idling properly I will post some VE tables and accel constants and see if I can fix the lean back fire and the surging on mild acceleration..... Thanks all, Joe

Hi all, My 240Z is driving me nuts, but I won't waste your time venting on all the things that are going wrong, but let me concentrate on one first....my inability to start the car without putting the pedal to the floor. I am running Megasquirt fuel only (thankfully) and here is what happens... If you don't touch the pedal at all and try and start the car it floods badly. I have set the TPS value for flood clear to 200. So the only way to start it is to put the pedal to the floor and crank. When it does finally fire up a cloud of unburnt fuel comes out of the tail pipe....this reallly, really sucks when I try and valet park - the guys always flood the car and then come looking for me. I couldn't even get the thing through a car wash this week. It is idling badly after start-up as well....and I occasionally get a backfire through the airfilter if I step on it too soon after startup... Here are my cranking settings Prime pump when : Prime pulse >0^ Fire priming pulse: after 2 sec Priming PW source: standard prime Standard Priming PW (ms): 0.0 Cranking Pulse WIdth temsp: CLT only OK, why the heck is this thing flooding - I am not even using a priming pulse???? And why am I getting a lean backfire when cold? Specially after the stupid thing just flooded??? ARRRGGGGGG. Couple of other settings Cold Accel enrichment is 8.0 COld accel multiplier is 140% I swear if I can't get this thing running right soon it is back to SUs for me!!!!! I have had it! The ironic thing is that I am supposed to be writing an article for Nissan Sport Magazine about the conversion and right now it is a very short article - "Don't do it!!!!" Thanks for any help, sorry for the vent Joe

I cleaned out the tank before I installed it. I guess that there could still be crud, but it looked good to me! Would a bad regulator act this way???? Joe

Just replaced the fuel filter and it still does it. I will T in a cheapo fuel pressure guage and go from there thanks for all the input. Anyone ever notice that it is not possible to simply do an upgrade and have it work right the first time or is it just me????

Hi All, I had posted here several weeks ago about problems I was having with getting my megasquirt working on my L28. I am having surging problems, but I have since decided that this is not due to the megasquirt but must be due to something else. In order to convert to megasquirt I had to swap to a '75 Z fuel tank and fuel pump and replace my fuel lines. I think that something is wrong in that swap. Here is the problem. As my fuel level decreases the car starts to surge worse and worse. When the fuel gets pretty low it is so bad that it is almost not possible to drive it. I cleaned out the tank before I installed it, so I don't think that it is rust. Could this be a fuel filter? Or a pressure regulator? I used the stock fuel rail and regulator from a 79 ZX... Any ideas? Thanks, Joe

OK, I am getting there thanks to Matt and Z-ya. I now have a car that is idling very smoothly and has pretty decent acceleration. Going to have to work out the initial cranking and the starting. I think that the car actually has slightly better acceleration after it has warmed up slightly, but not completely. This would seem to indicate I am running a little bit lean? I was just sitting at a light a moment ago when two punks in an old celica GT asked me if I wanted to race. I was so shocked that they thought that an old celica could take a 240???!? Anyway, street racing is stupid so I didn't do it. Besides, I was enjoying a cool refreshing slurpy from 7-11. Thanks, Joe

OK, the "glitch" is gone. Aparently my settings for the TPS threashold were too low as was my deccel %. My TPS Threashold is now 1.5 v/s and the deccel is 75%. I am curious what others are using for their Cold Accel Enrichment (ms) and %? 'Cause my car is running like crap until it is warmed up. Plus cranking always results in a cloud of gas laden smoke out the tailpipe. I have set: Prime pump pulse >0 Fire primary pulse after 2 seconds Primary PW Source = Standard Prime Standard Priming Pulse (ms) = 0.0 Cranking pulse width temps = CLT only Cranking RPM = 300 TPS Clear = 200 Use first start enrichment = off Car cranks and cranks but will not start until I depress the pedal slightly. Then when cold it baulks and dies when I try and accelerate. My FIDLE is not set up yet, but will be soon. All my enrichments are currently set to zero as I am trying to get rid of the cloud of fuel problem. Thanks, Joe

I would like to thank everyone for their help trying to solve my PWM issues. I couldn't get the car to idle or run with a PWM less than 70%. After I flashed the 29V version of the code and started using that the problem went away. I am now running at 35% with no problem. Well, I shouldn't say "no problem" more like a new problem. As I am at idle or accelerating I am either getting a reset or a voltage spike. When I am accelerating it feels like some onestepped on the brakes for a second. At idle the car almost stalls.... The log shows occasional high voltages (above 17V). Would this do it? I am running a mechanical voltage regulator and an old 50 amp alternator....I am thinking it may be time to upgrade.....any comments? Thanks, Joe

I can't get this thing running with anything less than a PWM% of 70, so I am talking to the guys at DIY and trying to figure out what is going on. Most likely it is at my end. Joe

OK, I finally figured out what I have to do to get down under a 50 PWM. I can't have the PWM time limit turn on before 4ms. This means that I have no PWM until after the pulse lengths get greater than 4ms. I have a required fuel = 18.9ms injector opening time = 1.3 Battery VoltageCorrection = .20 ms/V PWM Current limit = 50% PWM time Threshold = 4 ms I had to up my acceleration bins though Acceleration enrichment bins 2 v/s = 3.0 4 v/s = 4.0 8 v/s = 5.0 15 v/s = 6.0 This seems to be working and the PWM doesn't need to be on at the low injector pulse widths since that is not when they will overheat - it is at the longer pulse lengths that it will matter....heh? Joe